2005 6MT being used for HPDE, TT, and autocross. I think I'm having issues with my aftermarket pulley kit, which replaces the alternator and water pump pulleys but retains the OEM crank pulley.
My previous engine failed due to a damaged front bearing that the rebuilder claimed was partially due to over-tensioned accessory belts. Okay, now I'm afraid to repeat that scenario and I've been trying to run them as loose as possible.
However, I think my water pump belt is TOO loose, which is causing the pulley to slip and the car will begin to overheat. I can reach in and turn the water pump pulley with my hand. So I tighten it up, and the issue is reduced. BUT, the next day with the engine completely cold, the belt is loose again. I'm not sure if the belts are stretching, or I'm not torqueing down on the lock bolts hard enough.
One issue with the OEM setup geometry is that the belt acts over a narrow angle on the H2O pulley, reducing surface area and friction. The alternator has a ton of angle and friction...
So, some questions:
1. Has anyone heard of causing a front bearing failure due to over-tightened accessory belts? Should I be trying to keep them loose to "prevent" this type of failure?
2. Should I be able to spin the water pump pulley with my hand?
3. Has anyone else noticed that the belt tension goes from low when cold to much higher/tighter when the engine is at operating temperature? Should I be setting the cold or hot tension when following mazda FSM recommendations? If I set the tension when cold, it becomes quite tight (but maybe it's supposed to be?)
My previous engine failed due to a damaged front bearing that the rebuilder claimed was partially due to over-tensioned accessory belts. Okay, now I'm afraid to repeat that scenario and I've been trying to run them as loose as possible.
However, I think my water pump belt is TOO loose, which is causing the pulley to slip and the car will begin to overheat. I can reach in and turn the water pump pulley with my hand. So I tighten it up, and the issue is reduced. BUT, the next day with the engine completely cold, the belt is loose again. I'm not sure if the belts are stretching, or I'm not torqueing down on the lock bolts hard enough.
One issue with the OEM setup geometry is that the belt acts over a narrow angle on the H2O pulley, reducing surface area and friction. The alternator has a ton of angle and friction...
So, some questions:
1. Has anyone heard of causing a front bearing failure due to over-tightened accessory belts? Should I be trying to keep them loose to "prevent" this type of failure?
2. Should I be able to spin the water pump pulley with my hand?
3. Has anyone else noticed that the belt tension goes from low when cold to much higher/tighter when the engine is at operating temperature? Should I be setting the cold or hot tension when following mazda FSM recommendations? If I set the tension when cold, it becomes quite tight (but maybe it's supposed to be?)
Non-stop issues with belt tension / slipping
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