The dealer had it listed on CarGurus for 6990 and suddenly dropped it to $3700 which peaked my curiosity. I called him to ask about the car and why he dropped the price and he didn't give me a chance to talk, as soon as I said I was calling about the Mazda he immediately started in on his full disclosure speech (which helped him earn my trust but proved he knew nothing about a rotary engine).
He asked if I knew that these cars burned oil, and a few other small things and having spent a full week researching everything I can about how these amazing cars work responded with yes, which lead to him giving me further disclosure that the car has trouble starting after its warmed up which is the biggest reason for the price drop (paired with the oil burning which he told me it was supposed to do yet still listed as an issue). I had my suspicions that he was flooding the car so I took the 160 mile drive to see the car for myself. I took it for a test drive and loved it then I left it running and let him shut it off and try to restart it.
Sure enough he flooded it and did not know the de-flood procedure. I had him write up a bill of sale and sign it locking in the price but did not sign anything myself yet, I then went back, hopped in the car, de-flooded, revved the car to 5k and killed it. Started first try. did it again at 4k. First try. again at only three, you get the point, he just needed to thin out the fuel to air ratio before killing the car. I went back and signed the papers, wrote a check and Ill be going back to pick it up after the check clears.
I do think it may have some minor issues because as far as I know it shouldn't be strictly required to rev spike when the engine is fully warmed up as it was in this case, I know that it helps and i'll always do it but my understanding is that a completely healthy engine shouldn't flood when fully warmed if you just kill the ignition at idle. I tried to get a compression test done and he said it was 68 lbs but he did it before I got there so I don't believe that he did it and even if he did he already proved he knows nothing about a rotary so 68 will be an average of all three sides of the rotor because he most likely used a standard compression tester without removing the valve. What do you think, am I in for a lot of time under the hood or did I get lucky by finding a dealer who knew nothing about his product? (for the record I think even if i have a few problems I got a deal, $3700 for a working sports car? body is in decent shape too, gray with a few light scratches, very small ding on pass door, and a little flaking clear just beside the headlight, leather interior all clean and working.)
He asked if I knew that these cars burned oil, and a few other small things and having spent a full week researching everything I can about how these amazing cars work responded with yes, which lead to him giving me further disclosure that the car has trouble starting after its warmed up which is the biggest reason for the price drop (paired with the oil burning which he told me it was supposed to do yet still listed as an issue). I had my suspicions that he was flooding the car so I took the 160 mile drive to see the car for myself. I took it for a test drive and loved it then I left it running and let him shut it off and try to restart it.
Sure enough he flooded it and did not know the de-flood procedure. I had him write up a bill of sale and sign it locking in the price but did not sign anything myself yet, I then went back, hopped in the car, de-flooded, revved the car to 5k and killed it. Started first try. did it again at 4k. First try. again at only three, you get the point, he just needed to thin out the fuel to air ratio before killing the car. I went back and signed the papers, wrote a check and Ill be going back to pick it up after the check clears.
I do think it may have some minor issues because as far as I know it shouldn't be strictly required to rev spike when the engine is fully warmed up as it was in this case, I know that it helps and i'll always do it but my understanding is that a completely healthy engine shouldn't flood when fully warmed if you just kill the ignition at idle. I tried to get a compression test done and he said it was 68 lbs but he did it before I got there so I don't believe that he did it and even if he did he already proved he knows nothing about a rotary so 68 will be an average of all three sides of the rotor because he most likely used a standard compression tester without removing the valve. What do you think, am I in for a lot of time under the hood or did I get lucky by finding a dealer who knew nothing about his product? (for the record I think even if i have a few problems I got a deal, $3700 for a working sports car? body is in decent shape too, gray with a few light scratches, very small ding on pass door, and a little flaking clear just beside the headlight, leather interior all clean and working.)
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