Jimmy’s First Turbo Build (Greddy)

mardi 8 septembre 2015

I've been running this setup as a daily driver since it was installed in February 2015, with peak boost of 11.5psi. Zero issues to date (touch wood).

Preparation
I didn't want to chase my tail with issues after the turbo installation, so I installed as many items as I could while still NA. This let me identify and fix issues easily before they turned into big issues.

Parts Installed Before Turbo Conversion

Oil catch can plumbed to intake (not VTA)
MazdaEdit license and OBD2 adapter.
Prosport Premium Oil Temp Gauge. Beeps and flashes when the programmed max value is reached.
Prosport Premium Coolant Temp Gauge. Beeps and flashes when the programmed max value is reached.
Prosport Premium Fuel Pressure Gauge. Beeps and flashes when the programmed minimum value is reached.
Prosport Performance Boost Gauge.
Innovate AFR Gauge. MTX-L with LSU 4.9 sensor. Displays min AFR of 7.35 – required for tuning below OEM sensor minimum of 11.
Oil filter adaptor plate (M20x1.5 adapter) for oil temp gauge sensor and turbo oil feed.
Air pump delete.
BHR midpipe and high flow cat (installed 12 months prior).
BHR Coils and leads. Tune updated with new dwell times.
Replaced OEM plastic grill with metal mesh for improved airflow to intake, IC and radiator.
Deatschworks DW200 fuel pump. Part number 140115, flows 255lph.

Parts Installed During Turbo Conversion

Greddy turbo (t618z/Mitsubishi TD06-18g) rebuilt and modified with larger anti-surge ported compressor housing and 53/71 (56trim) compressor wheel
Electronic Boost Controller – GFB G-Force2
Intercooler – dimensions 600x280x100mm
AEM MAF tube running forward through front firewall to stock Greddy air filter
BOV - HKS SSQV with 1.25” recirc adapter
Oil feed line – Oil filter adaptor plate to 1/8NTP adapter to -3AN line to 1mm oil restrictor to M10x1.25 adapter to turbo CHRA
Oil drain line – Stock Greddy oil drain pipe to -10AN hose to -10AN hose adapter to -10AN flange welded to stock oil pan, 5cm forward of oil drain plug.
Adhesive heat shield matting on underside of transmission tunnel above the turbo location
Exhaust wrap protecting compressor inlet pipe from exhaust manifold
Extreme ceramic coated Greddy exhaust manifold
Vacuum hose connections:
Post-MAF nipple 1 to check valve to jet air
Post-MAF nipple 2 to catch can to oil filler neck
Post-MAF nipple 3 to oil injection line as per stock
Wastegate to EBC
EBC to Turbo compressor housing nipple
Boost gauge sensor T’d with BOV signal to UIM.
Nipple near dipstick to be capped off.

Engine
The engine had a fresh rebuild with deep groove 2mm rx7 ALS apex seals, new housings and OEM everything else.

Turbo
I had the turbo rebuilt prior to install. When I picked up the rebuilt and balanced turbo I found a few issues …

A stock 12 fin turbine wheel was used instead of my requested 11 fin wheel.
A 56 trim compressor wheel was used instead of my requested 57-59 trim wheel. Hmmm, not quite the rebuild I was looking for but at least it’ll spool nicely.
Original compressor housing was replaced with a slightly larger anti-surge housing, which he said should improve performance a little. Goodbye waste gate actuator mount. I got him to tap a new WG mount into the comp housing and add a nipple for WG actuator signal while he was at it. That just left me with the fact that the new larger compressor no longer cleared the exhaust manifold. No big deal, I sourced a 10mm T25 flange to space the turbo out from the manifold.

Above issues were due to my lack of experience at the time and some poor communication from the builder. You honestly don't know how ignorant you are until you learn some **** the hard way. With 20/20 hindsight I'd manage it differently in the future.

Tuning
Being a Kiwi it was only natural to get in contact with Brettus for some assistance with tuning. He’s a wealth of knowledge and was able to give recommendations on most aspects of the build. Props to the big man.

Boost Profile
To maximise performance and engine longevity I’m not planning to run more than 12psi. There’s a bit of head room here due to the solid tune. I’ve inadvertently over-boosted to 14psi a few times after wastegate/exhaust changes and didn’t notice any detonation.
Using only the mechanical waste gate actuator (EBC not programmed) peak boost is at about 4.5krpm in 3rd gear, and drops by about 3psi towards the top of the rpm range. The EBC is used to help the boost come in a sooner and minimise boost taper through the upper rpm range.
My long-term setup is using the EBC to hit peak boost of 11.7psi, dropping to 10.5 at peak rpm. If I turn off the EBC the mechanical actuator is set to a peak of 9.3psi, dropping to 6.5psi peak rpm. I’ve found that the actuator works best on this setting.

A few pics: