This is my first time rebuilding a Rotary, I've read lots about how impossible it is. We shall learn the hard way I guess. This is where I will post about things I have learned. This will be a slow process, as I have a broken neck and cant work for long/hard on the car, let alone drive myself to the shop with my Halo brace on. Once September comes I hope to have the motor ready to go back in the car, and by then I should be able to install it unencumbered.
Getting the engine of the car out is pretty straight forward and well documented on the site by rotaryresurection. I have an automatic transmission car and was able to remove it with the torque converter attached although I recommend not forgetting to take it off like I did. Also the cross member that is removed is necessary to be taken off because the exhaust will hit it on removal, at least it did in my case.
There is also a battery tray bracket that nobody talks about removing to keep the OMP safe, it looks to me like this is the unknown culprit of damage to the OMP if you spin the engine on removal it will hit this bracket, two bolts removes it.
Once I got the engine out, I had to get the rear nut off the flexplate, this requires a 2-1/8" socket and holding the engine down was the hardest part, after that, use a big breaker bar and cheater pipe. Same for the front nut, wont go, get a bigger pipe. I didn't have access to a big impact (3/4" drive). I used a piece of chain from the engine lifting lug to a flexplate bolt to hold the crank from spinning, this bent the bolt and I recommend you do it some other way.
Getting the engine of the car out is pretty straight forward and well documented on the site by rotaryresurection. I have an automatic transmission car and was able to remove it with the torque converter attached although I recommend not forgetting to take it off like I did. Also the cross member that is removed is necessary to be taken off because the exhaust will hit it on removal, at least it did in my case.
There is also a battery tray bracket that nobody talks about removing to keep the OMP safe, it looks to me like this is the unknown culprit of damage to the OMP if you spin the engine on removal it will hit this bracket, two bolts removes it.
Once I got the engine out, I had to get the rear nut off the flexplate, this requires a 2-1/8" socket and holding the engine down was the hardest part, after that, use a big breaker bar and cheater pipe. Same for the front nut, wont go, get a bigger pipe. I didn't have access to a big impact (3/4" drive). I used a piece of chain from the engine lifting lug to a flexplate bolt to hold the crank from spinning, this bent the bolt and I recommend you do it some other way.
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