I'm selling a 2004 rx8. For a $1000 east texas. Everything is there. Carbon fiber hood nitrous (never sprayed but it's hooked up) carbon fiber k&n air filter. Single exhaust. Was running but died while I was driving. Imagine it blew apex seals. Don't have time to fix text 9038023868
Flexplate bolts
So I need to replace a damaged flexplate bolt and it is M10x1.25x35mm long. This bolt passes through the metal disk, then the flex plate and into the counterbalance. The head is stamped '8' so I'm thinking this is grade 8.8 bolt, where in metric bolts I would think a grade 10.9 is the desired strength. I know that these are in shear only on the flex plate and either would work likely but just trying to understand the marking on the bolt head of just '8'.
Also anyone selling some flexplate bolts?
Also anyone selling some flexplate bolts?
Feel like such a newb
Okay so I've had an idle issue since winter. Really just frustrates the living hell out of me! I've done everything! Except take the tps off to clean but I've cleaned around it without removing, I'm just fearful of snapping that bolt it looks rather unsafe lol. When the car starts to idle funny it's right after relays switch over you can hear them pop per day before the funky stuff starts happening.
But the other day the purge valve plug wire snapped off by my hitting my wrist against when topping off oil. Looks like it had actually been tampered with before. Went to Mazda the parts guy was nice enough to cut a connector off a harness that was in the junk pile. Got that all spliced up no longer through that purge valve code. But I learned another code was present the tuning valve code I believe p2070 was the number. I've taken the ssv out and cleaned it about 2 months ago and it moves freely still.
But this isn't my main concern.
A day into the purge valve being disconnected the car started getting a hard start issue. Not like flooding or hard hot starts. Just hard starts all together takes a few seconds longer then normal cold or hot and sounds like it's struggling like vroom vroom vroom. Not a chug chug chug. If that makes since.
Could have I fouled a plug out? I don't have misfires etc ign was all replaced in February or March.
It doesn't ever not start just hard to start. And this idle hunt with relays clicking. Is it a grounding bad wire connection?
But the other day the purge valve plug wire snapped off by my hitting my wrist against when topping off oil. Looks like it had actually been tampered with before. Went to Mazda the parts guy was nice enough to cut a connector off a harness that was in the junk pile. Got that all spliced up no longer through that purge valve code. But I learned another code was present the tuning valve code I believe p2070 was the number. I've taken the ssv out and cleaned it about 2 months ago and it moves freely still.
But this isn't my main concern.
A day into the purge valve being disconnected the car started getting a hard start issue. Not like flooding or hard hot starts. Just hard starts all together takes a few seconds longer then normal cold or hot and sounds like it's struggling like vroom vroom vroom. Not a chug chug chug. If that makes since.
Could have I fouled a plug out? I don't have misfires etc ign was all replaced in February or March.
It doesn't ever not start just hard to start. And this idle hunt with relays clicking. Is it a grounding bad wire connection?
{WTB} Rx8 Rotor housings in good condition
Need a pair of good condition Rx8 rotor housings. No flaking or edge wear.
Send me a PM of what you have!
Logan
Send me a PM of what you have!
Logan
{ FS } 2005 Mazda Rx8 PART OUT
PART OUT
Location: Los Angeles,SFV, California
6 Speed manual Transmission
Interior:Red/Black
Just ask for the part
parts sold: Rims, Engine, Maf, o2 Sensors
contact me: vllxn_03@icloud.com / 1(818) five6one-96one4
Location: Los Angeles,SFV, California
6 Speed manual Transmission
Interior:Red/Black
Just ask for the part
parts sold: Rims, Engine, Maf, o2 Sensors
contact me: vllxn_03@icloud.com / 1(818) five6one-96one4
Won't go into gear while car is on; gas smell
Drove my 8 to the Grand Canyon today and as I was looking for parking, noticed it was hard to put into gear. Eventually it got impossible to put into any of the higher gears, including reverse. It will go into first with some struggle, but when the car is off the gears slide in smoothly. I thought maybe my clutch pedal wasn't disengaging the clutch all the way, but I looked at the pedal assembly and I can't see anything wrong with it. I also started to smell a strong gas/fume smell but there was nothing visibly leaking. Any help would be great, as I am stranded at the Grand Canyon until I get this figured out. Thanks!
Side note: I would search a little further, but I only have enough signal out here to load a couple pages.
Side note: I would search a little further, but I only have enough signal out here to load a couple pages.
Ecu
What are some signs that the ecu is fried? Would my coil pack not getting any spark be one of these signs??
Aem rebate
{ FS } rx-8 everything
Huge variety used RX-8 parts, interior, navigation, ect.... All years available. We can ship. Contact Jose @ 352-259-2020 or parts@ladylakeauto.com
{ FS } parts
Huge variety used RX-8 parts, interior, navigation, ect... All years available. We can ship please contact Jose at parts@ladylakeauto.com for all yours RX-8 needs.
need help...
Hi there I am new to the rotary world and to this forum
after selling my mr2 turbo I have just bought a 04 231 rx8 from the UK (114000 miles with a rebuild at 100000 ) the seller said it had a remap but no proof of that. It now lives in France
and i'm already having a little trouble with it and would really appreciate a little help from some experts !!
(i dont know if i am on the right thread or not??)
please let me know if I am not !
so here goes..
im having a hard time starting it (cold or hot) very unusual for a 8...
from cold starts i need to turn it over about 6 to 8 seconds for it to start (sometimes get a bang like a shotgun from the exhaust) then it starts
idle doesnt sound quite right and the car sometimes vibrates.
once warm it drives well with plenty of power.
when it comes to a hot start sometimes it will start after about 5 seconds and other times it takes about two 10second attempts.
the engine light came on with the Po 420 code = Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
it has the N3Z1 starter on it, new plugs i have just ordered new coils as no proof of last change
I cant bear to think of compression :(
any thoughts?? or tips would REALLY be apreiated
Thanks.
after selling my mr2 turbo I have just bought a 04 231 rx8 from the UK (114000 miles with a rebuild at 100000 ) the seller said it had a remap but no proof of that. It now lives in France
and i'm already having a little trouble with it and would really appreciate a little help from some experts !!
(i dont know if i am on the right thread or not??)
please let me know if I am not !
so here goes..
im having a hard time starting it (cold or hot) very unusual for a 8...
from cold starts i need to turn it over about 6 to 8 seconds for it to start (sometimes get a bang like a shotgun from the exhaust) then it starts
idle doesnt sound quite right and the car sometimes vibrates.
once warm it drives well with plenty of power.
when it comes to a hot start sometimes it will start after about 5 seconds and other times it takes about two 10second attempts.
the engine light came on with the Po 420 code = Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
it has the N3Z1 starter on it, new plugs i have just ordered new coils as no proof of last change
I cant bear to think of compression :(
any thoughts?? or tips would REALLY be apreiated
Thanks.
App?
I hate to post about something so silly, but I cannot seem to find the banner that shows the app for the forum, I remember seeing it before. Can someone please send a link or the official name of the app please? Thank you!
What should I buy
So my rx8 is crashed and there isn't another one for sale any where near me. Just lost my 2009 8
Any suggestions of car that gives me a small thrill?
Here's what I've considered
Mini Cooper S
Infiniti g37
Bmw
EVO
Scion
Any other cars you think are worth considering. Nothing is an rx8 though.
Any suggestions of car that gives me a small thrill?
Here's what I've considered
Mini Cooper S
Infiniti g37
Bmw
EVO
Scion
Any other cars you think are worth considering. Nothing is an rx8 though.
Did I total my RX8?
Buying a used 8, need your advice
lundi 29 juin 2015
Hi all
I am new to this forum.
I found a what seems well maintained 8 as you drive it but it has a few "flaws" so I wanted your opinion about this particular car.
-original engine
-65 000 km ( ~40300 miles)
-second owner ( I would be third)
-regularly serviced at Mazda service
-original CAT (exhaust has a "weird" sound when the car starts at low rpm altho it could be my imagination)
-Coils changed at 63 500 km ( ~39500 miles)
-plug wires never changed
-plug coils never changed
-never flooded
-original seals
-1L oil on 10000km
-gas consumption standard
-starter is still original
-cranking time when cold aprox 2.00-2.35 seconds
-maf, ess never cleaned (is not stated in papers provided by service nor does the owner know if it was cleaned)
-air filter changed at 60000 km
-as I pulled out "stick" for oil measurement (I am not native English speaker so please don't mind my bad grammar/wrong word usage) it had some foamy brownish stuff on it, I am not sure if that should be like that
-when i put the car in idle, and released clutch it sounded like it was mildly grinding on something, as i pressed clutch again no sound was emitted, during driving and normal gear shifting there was no weird sound present
-owner didn't use premix
-owner does wait for the car to heat up before driving it
-motor compression test was not made so I asked him to make one, results will come tomorrow and I'll post them here if he won't sell the car in the meantime
He is asking for 6500 euros for that 8 (note that I live in foreign country in witch that money equivalents around 8000-8200 euros in Germany).
Is the car worth that money? How badly could the not changed parts effect life span of the engine/car? Any other advices?
I am new to this forum.
I found a what seems well maintained 8 as you drive it but it has a few "flaws" so I wanted your opinion about this particular car.
-original engine
-65 000 km ( ~40300 miles)
-second owner ( I would be third)
-regularly serviced at Mazda service
-original CAT (exhaust has a "weird" sound when the car starts at low rpm altho it could be my imagination)
-Coils changed at 63 500 km ( ~39500 miles)
-plug wires never changed
-plug coils never changed
-never flooded
-original seals
-1L oil on 10000km
-gas consumption standard
-starter is still original
-cranking time when cold aprox 2.00-2.35 seconds
-maf, ess never cleaned (is not stated in papers provided by service nor does the owner know if it was cleaned)
-air filter changed at 60000 km
-as I pulled out "stick" for oil measurement (I am not native English speaker so please don't mind my bad grammar/wrong word usage) it had some foamy brownish stuff on it, I am not sure if that should be like that
-when i put the car in idle, and released clutch it sounded like it was mildly grinding on something, as i pressed clutch again no sound was emitted, during driving and normal gear shifting there was no weird sound present
-owner didn't use premix
-owner does wait for the car to heat up before driving it
-motor compression test was not made so I asked him to make one, results will come tomorrow and I'll post them here if he won't sell the car in the meantime
He is asking for 6500 euros for that 8 (note that I live in foreign country in witch that money equivalents around 8000-8200 euros in Germany).
Is the car worth that money? How badly could the not changed parts effect life span of the engine/car? Any other advices?
Need Help!! 05 Rx8 Running Like Poop.
So I just shipped my 2005 RX8 down to Utah from Alaska and when it got here I took it for a drive and after it gets to running temp it starts to run like absolute garbage and loss of power. Periodically while driving the check engine light will flash. I did a obd2 scan and it comes back to rotor 1 misfire. I have replaced the coils plugs and wires, I even replaced the fuel pump as mine is the original with 118000 miles (motor only has 25000 miles) but I am still left with ****. Compression test was done last month which came back to 7.9 8.0 7.9 7.9 so I know it's not an engine issue. What on earth could it be? I am so lost I don't know where to turn. P.S. catalytic converter was also replaced last week.
{ FS } ACT Prolite flywheel with Exedy Clutch
{WTB} Flywheel counterweight, injectors
Hi everyone. First off thank you for taking the time out to read this.
I am coming up on the end of a LONG process of getting parts, cleaning and painting things.. it has been a long road to FI. So I'm pretty close to having everything I need to drop the motor in and enjoy what I have created.
Only issue is I'm still missing just a few parts to get me to that point. Hence this WTB thread.
I'm looking for :
Counterweight for lightweight flywheel. Can be ACT or from an AT idc really..
I'm still missing 2 blue injectors from the AT as well.
I also need an AFR gauge but I want a Failsafe gauge...
That being said If need be I will add more items to this list.
I would need the items Shipped to 17866.
Those who have the part for sale please PM me details and a quote shipped.
Thanks again
Travis
I am coming up on the end of a LONG process of getting parts, cleaning and painting things.. it has been a long road to FI. So I'm pretty close to having everything I need to drop the motor in and enjoy what I have created.
Only issue is I'm still missing just a few parts to get me to that point. Hence this WTB thread.
I'm looking for :
Counterweight for lightweight flywheel. Can be ACT or from an AT idc really..
I'm still missing 2 blue injectors from the AT as well.
I also need an AFR gauge but I want a Failsafe gauge...
That being said If need be I will add more items to this list.
I would need the items Shipped to 17866.
Those who have the part for sale please PM me details and a quote shipped.
Thanks again
Travis
{ FS } For Sale: 2005 Velocity Red 91K loaded Northern to Central Ontario
Sacrifice sell - moving to East Coast and need to purchase a truck for the move. Asking $9900
2005 Mazda RX-8 GS
Velocity Red
2 Tone Red/Black leather interior
Power sunroof
6 speed Manual Transmission
6 CD Changer/BOSE System
Cruise Control
Heated seats
Power mirrors/doors
Have original owners manual & tire repair kit & Valet Key
Including all weather ($200 new) car cover
Just hit 91,000KM today
Winter stored
Interior Map/Door lights replaced with Blue LED's - 2013
Replacements while owned:
Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport – Tires Replaced 05/2011
Brand new brakes (Front & Rear) - 12/06/2015
Brand New Front Rotors - 12/06/2015
New Coolant Tank – 03/2011
Replace Rear Struts – 06/2013
Tail light gaskets replaced - no condensation in tail lights
One driver - I've babied this car since purchase.
I'm located in North Bay but am often in Barrie, can deliver as far as that.
Email: aylan@aylan.ca



2005 Mazda RX-8 GS
Velocity Red
2 Tone Red/Black leather interior
Power sunroof
6 speed Manual Transmission
6 CD Changer/BOSE System
Cruise Control
Heated seats
Power mirrors/doors
Have original owners manual & tire repair kit & Valet Key
Including all weather ($200 new) car cover
Just hit 91,000KM today
Winter stored
Interior Map/Door lights replaced with Blue LED's - 2013
Replacements while owned:
Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport – Tires Replaced 05/2011
Brand new brakes (Front & Rear) - 12/06/2015
Brand New Front Rotors - 12/06/2015
New Coolant Tank – 03/2011
Replace Rear Struts – 06/2013
Tail light gaskets replaced - no condensation in tail lights
One driver - I've babied this car since purchase.
I'm located in North Bay but am often in Barrie, can deliver as far as that.
Email: aylan@aylan.ca
$90 @ Streets of willow - July 4-5, 2015
$90 @ Streets of willow - July 4-5, 2015
Extremespeedtrackevents will be at Willow Springs
in SoCal-
July 4-5th for a track day, Special track day price of only $90 for the whole day on track .
DISCOUNT CODE IS ( 1776 )
Any Questions email sung@extremespeedtrackevents.com
Register here- Home - Extreme Speed Track Events
Must register before July 4-5 for the discount
Free Basic on track instruction for beginners, All driver levels welcome.Beginners are welcome
Extremespeedtrackevents will be at Willow Springs
in SoCal-
July 4-5th for a track day, Special track day price of only $90 for the whole day on track .
DISCOUNT CODE IS ( 1776 )
Any Questions email sung@extremespeedtrackevents.com
Register here- Home - Extreme Speed Track Events
Must register before July 4-5 for the discount
Free Basic on track instruction for beginners, All driver levels welcome.Beginners are welcome
{ FS } Energy Suspension poly sway bar bushings/OEM sway bar links
Energy Suspension sway bar bushing kit 7.5114G for sale.
It includes 27mm polyurethane sway bar bushing and two brackets to replace your stock brackets. Also includes other hardware as it is a universal kit.
It is brand new unused and unopened. Still sealed in the package.
Yes this will fit stock front sway bars, it will also fit a plethora of other aftermarket front swaybars as well. Looking for $30 Shipped in the US.






I also have a pair of brand new OEM front sway bar links unused looking for $40 shipped in the US for the pair.
If you want everything together I can do $65 shipped. PM me if you're interested. Local pickup in the Queens NYC area is always welcome also.
It includes 27mm polyurethane sway bar bushing and two brackets to replace your stock brackets. Also includes other hardware as it is a universal kit.
It is brand new unused and unopened. Still sealed in the package.
Yes this will fit stock front sway bars, it will also fit a plethora of other aftermarket front swaybars as well. Looking for $30 Shipped in the US.
I also have a pair of brand new OEM front sway bar links unused looking for $40 shipped in the US for the pair.
If you want everything together I can do $65 shipped. PM me if you're interested. Local pickup in the Queens NYC area is always welcome also.
Rx8 burning oil and power steering problem
Hi all. I have brought a beauty she is an 07 nemisis with 64k on it but has issues.
1. Burning oil bad
2. Power steering fault
I think the guy that owned before me has been running the wrong oil as it seemed really thin almost like gear oil.
The first things I tried where all the obvious ones like changing the oil for some 10-40 and put some oil restorer in which I'm slowly getting round the engine. I have also checked the breather hoses and here lies the question. Is there supposed to be a vaccum accoss the small non return valve at the back of the air intake (it has an arrow on it)? And is this likely to be the problem!
Have have done cold compression tests with 100 psi in the front rotor and 65 psi in the rear!
I guess your all going to say a rebuild, but the car starts great within about 3 secs of turning the key.
The second problem being no PS. I have seen a few threads on loose connectors so will try those first.
Any ideas on the burning oil / over oiling into the combustion chamber? Cheers new 8 fan:)
1. Burning oil bad
2. Power steering fault
I think the guy that owned before me has been running the wrong oil as it seemed really thin almost like gear oil.
The first things I tried where all the obvious ones like changing the oil for some 10-40 and put some oil restorer in which I'm slowly getting round the engine. I have also checked the breather hoses and here lies the question. Is there supposed to be a vaccum accoss the small non return valve at the back of the air intake (it has an arrow on it)? And is this likely to be the problem!
Have have done cold compression tests with 100 psi in the front rotor and 65 psi in the rear!
I guess your all going to say a rebuild, but the car starts great within about 3 secs of turning the key.
The second problem being no PS. I have seen a few threads on loose connectors so will try those first.
Any ideas on the burning oil / over oiling into the combustion chamber? Cheers new 8 fan:)
BHR Ignition kit problem
So i recently installed the bhr ignition kit and have ran into some problems. To start off my gas has been burning really rich and has lead my car to pop like a bitch(dont mind the popping since its beautiful) and before the kit i was getting 100 miles every half tank and now I only reached 70-80miles half tank. Also I have aftermarket intake, midpipe, and exhaust and wondered if i just really need a tune. Thanks for all the help guys.
coolant temp 237
thought i would share a concern/experience with my 2007 rx8
I don't have any gauges to confirm what my exact temperature was, but based off a picture in a tread http://ift.tt/1QZOotK
2007 GT 60k miles, koyo, samco rad lines, new coolant bottle (all installed @55k miles) under tray functioning properly. (ambient temps around 80-90 with AC, uphill climb)
Did some canyon carving over the weekend. Noticed temp gauge (see pic). Shut off AC, reduced rpms to 3k. Temp gauge moved back to normal position in about 5 mins. Made it to a safe place to pull over. 1 hour cool down, fans stayed on for about 10 mins. Drove the car for about another 200 miles that day, drove it to work today. No driving/starting issues.
I don't have any gauges to confirm what my exact temperature was, but based off a picture in a tread http://ift.tt/1QZOotK
2007 GT 60k miles, koyo, samco rad lines, new coolant bottle (all installed @55k miles) under tray functioning properly. (ambient temps around 80-90 with AC, uphill climb)
Did some canyon carving over the weekend. Noticed temp gauge (see pic). Shut off AC, reduced rpms to 3k. Temp gauge moved back to normal position in about 5 mins. Made it to a safe place to pull over. 1 hour cool down, fans stayed on for about 10 mins. Drove the car for about another 200 miles that day, drove it to work today. No driving/starting issues.
Cleaning up sloppy work
In the process of cleaning up some sloppy work on my car, I was going over the remnants of the VFAD system that was taken off (not my request.) and according to the vacuum diagram, when the system is removed the Orange line on the diagram is supposed to be capped on the underside of the UIM.
However, looking today, what I believe to be that vac nipple is not capped, but running somewhere towards the back of the engine. A few inches to the right of that one (if standing on drivers side of car looking into bay) there is another nipple on the UIM however that is capped. I think this one is for the VDI.
My question, if I am indeed diagnosing this right, does it matter that the vac lines are on the wrong nipples, as they are both on the UIM? I mean, it would take all of ten minutes to change if it does matter, but i'm just curious.
Pics below if anyone can confirm or deny my diagnosis.

Pic of the UIM. That vac line on the left (just to the right of the plug wire) is what I believe should go to the VFAD, but obviously isn't. The gold bolt on the far right nearly out of frame, is what i believe is what is supposed to go to the VDI, but again, obviously isn't.

Close up of the gold bolt in last photo.

Anyone know where this clip goes? found it right near the passengers side headlight...I can't stand sloppy work.
However, looking today, what I believe to be that vac nipple is not capped, but running somewhere towards the back of the engine. A few inches to the right of that one (if standing on drivers side of car looking into bay) there is another nipple on the UIM however that is capped. I think this one is for the VDI.
My question, if I am indeed diagnosing this right, does it matter that the vac lines are on the wrong nipples, as they are both on the UIM? I mean, it would take all of ten minutes to change if it does matter, but i'm just curious.
Pics below if anyone can confirm or deny my diagnosis.
Pic of the UIM. That vac line on the left (just to the right of the plug wire) is what I believe should go to the VFAD, but obviously isn't. The gold bolt on the far right nearly out of frame, is what i believe is what is supposed to go to the VDI, but again, obviously isn't.
Close up of the gold bolt in last photo.
Anyone know where this clip goes? found it right near the passengers side headlight...I can't stand sloppy work.
{WTB} Compression tester
dimanche 28 juin 2015
Hello,
I'm looking for a used rotary compression tester (Mazda OEM tester, TR-01, etc.). Anyone have one for sale? Please PM me if you have one for sale!
Thanks,
FS
I'm looking for a used rotary compression tester (Mazda OEM tester, TR-01, etc.). Anyone have one for sale? Please PM me if you have one for sale!
Thanks,
FS
Compression Test, Mixed Results
Hi all,
I recently noticed my car driving and starting differently, almost as if it was wounded or misfiring and was stumbling on startup. Since I wasn't sure if it was just the Phoenix summer heat or if something was actually wrong so I took it in for a compression test. A bit more information than is probably needed...
2005 GT with 74k miles on the original engine
I've owned it for the past 3 years and 30k miles, daily driven for the past two.
It's been in Socal or Phoenix it's entire life, it is a USDM Cali spec.
Oil Changes have been every 3k or less usually with 5w-20, premix .5oz/gallon since 60k
BHR ignition @ 55k
AP tuned by MM @ 69k
A quick note, when changing the plugs last I noticed that the trailing plug on rotor 1 had not been firing, after testing with a new BHR coil and plugs it was just determined that the coil had stopped working but it could have been ran up to 10k miles without firing the trailing.
Results in kgf/cm2, elevation ~1100ft
Rotor 1
7.8
8
7.9
Rotor 2
8.6
8.8
8.6
Compression is above spec on both rotors but the difference between the two rotors is above the max difference.
Driving it seems to stumble or act like it's misfiring <4k, but above that seems to be okay and any loss of power I would normally just attribute to the summer heat.
I'll try to upload video of the cold and hot starts, both are pretty much the same but it seems to stumble once or twice whereas it didn't use to 1k miles ago.
Any advice is much appreciated! :bowdown:
I recently noticed my car driving and starting differently, almost as if it was wounded or misfiring and was stumbling on startup. Since I wasn't sure if it was just the Phoenix summer heat or if something was actually wrong so I took it in for a compression test. A bit more information than is probably needed...
2005 GT with 74k miles on the original engine
I've owned it for the past 3 years and 30k miles, daily driven for the past two.
It's been in Socal or Phoenix it's entire life, it is a USDM Cali spec.
Oil Changes have been every 3k or less usually with 5w-20, premix .5oz/gallon since 60k
BHR ignition @ 55k
AP tuned by MM @ 69k
A quick note, when changing the plugs last I noticed that the trailing plug on rotor 1 had not been firing, after testing with a new BHR coil and plugs it was just determined that the coil had stopped working but it could have been ran up to 10k miles without firing the trailing.
Results in kgf/cm2, elevation ~1100ft
Rotor 1
7.8
8
7.9
Rotor 2
8.6
8.8
8.6
Compression is above spec on both rotors but the difference between the two rotors is above the max difference.
Driving it seems to stumble or act like it's misfiring <4k, but above that seems to be okay and any loss of power I would normally just attribute to the summer heat.
I'll try to upload video of the cold and hot starts, both are pretty much the same but it seems to stumble once or twice whereas it didn't use to 1k miles ago.
Any advice is much appreciated! :bowdown:
counterbalance removal AUTO trans
Hi, I'm trying to remove the counterbalance behind the flexplate so that I may get the engine torn down. I have the 54mm nut off the e-shaft, but my puller does not seem to fit on this, is there a special puller required to remove the counterbalance? If so is there a vendor that sells it?
Thanks
Jamie
Thanks
Jamie
P0301, New ignition, no symptoms
Disclaimer: 90% of my forum posts anywhere are just getting my thoughts together, so this might not come across and a question or I'll end up answering it myself by the end.
2004 GT 6 speed with 88k. Plugs, coils, wires, replaced ~4k ago. MAF cleaned at the same time. All by the PO. Light isn't blinking or I'd be way more concerned.
Light first came on 3 weeks ago upon start up. No symptoms at all and nothing that seemed to set it off. Considering the new ignition, I decided to disconnect the better, brake stomp, and see what happens. Light stayed off for the last few weeks and 1500 or so miles. Just came back on today, again upon start up.
I wouldn't be posting if I wasn't baffled by the lack of symptoms. Power is certainly there and I'm getting 18 mpg no problem with my 50 mile round trip commute 5 days a week. Red line it merging from the on ramp a couple times a week. Besides that nothing abnormal or noteworthy.
Guess the next step is double check the connections? Just weird because it didn't have an issue before. Of course I can always clear it again, but rather just not have it in the back of my head.
2004 GT 6 speed with 88k. Plugs, coils, wires, replaced ~4k ago. MAF cleaned at the same time. All by the PO. Light isn't blinking or I'd be way more concerned.
Light first came on 3 weeks ago upon start up. No symptoms at all and nothing that seemed to set it off. Considering the new ignition, I decided to disconnect the better, brake stomp, and see what happens. Light stayed off for the last few weeks and 1500 or so miles. Just came back on today, again upon start up.
I wouldn't be posting if I wasn't baffled by the lack of symptoms. Power is certainly there and I'm getting 18 mpg no problem with my 50 mile round trip commute 5 days a week. Red line it merging from the on ramp a couple times a week. Besides that nothing abnormal or noteworthy.
Guess the next step is double check the connections? Just weird because it didn't have an issue before. Of course I can always clear it again, but rather just not have it in the back of my head.
Lost reverse, any tips?
So I baught my 8 in february with 128xxx miles and havnt had it on the road due to fixing anything and everything that's wrong with it. At first it was hard to shift into reverse like some 8s do or possibly the clutch that needs replaced and since then it has become in possible to get into reverse.
The only time I drive it is to move it from the garage outside and possibly up the road to get the rpms up and clean out the carbon. I've ordered redline to change the fluids to see if that will help any. I'm almost positive the fluids in this care were not changed properly.
Do you guys think I should put the new fluid in, along with the clutch and see what happens or should I just order a used tranny with 35k to 65k miles on it since it has to come off to replace the clutch and get it over with.
The only time I drive it is to move it from the garage outside and possibly up the road to get the rpms up and clean out the carbon. I've ordered redline to change the fluids to see if that will help any. I'm almost positive the fluids in this care were not changed properly.
Do you guys think I should put the new fluid in, along with the clutch and see what happens or should I just order a used tranny with 35k to 65k miles on it since it has to come off to replace the clutch and get it over with.
Strange behaviour - stalls and rough
Hi.
Mine started to play up. When cold engine starts 1-2 cranks and running. Than the revs go up and down. Set at around 1000 for 2-3 sec. Than go up to 1500 and go down to 800-900 starts being very rough and goes to 1000 and cycle repeats. If I push acceleration pedal, first it loses almost all its power and than revs go up.
Coils/plugs/cables changed. mAF sensor cleaned.
Error codes: pending P0301 misfire 1st cylinder. Milage : 47k.
compression test to be done this week- results as soon as I have them. I have video on this behaviour if helpful. Engine starts hot and cold. When started hot usually keeps 900rpm for around 2-3 sec after start than stalls. Is there anything else I can check/replace before taking it to a workshop?
Mine started to play up. When cold engine starts 1-2 cranks and running. Than the revs go up and down. Set at around 1000 for 2-3 sec. Than go up to 1500 and go down to 800-900 starts being very rough and goes to 1000 and cycle repeats. If I push acceleration pedal, first it loses almost all its power and than revs go up.
Coils/plugs/cables changed. mAF sensor cleaned.
Error codes: pending P0301 misfire 1st cylinder. Milage : 47k.
compression test to be done this week- results as soon as I have them. I have video on this behaviour if helpful. Engine starts hot and cold. When started hot usually keeps 900rpm for around 2-3 sec after start than stalls. Is there anything else I can check/replace before taking it to a workshop?
Nitrous pre turbo?
Has anyone tried adding nitrous and gas into the exhaust between the engine and turbo?
I believe our exhaust temp would make it spontaneously combust, resulting in a rocket powered turbo...
:beer05::beer05::beer05:
I believe our exhaust temp would make it spontaneously combust, resulting in a rocket powered turbo...
:beer05::beer05::beer05:
Need an exaust fix.
Hello.
I don't know how unusual this problem is, or not.
My middle pipe and main silencer are in relatively good condition, as a whole. But the stem from the silencer, where it goes into the middle pipe (at the stopper) has rotted away. I would like to know if there is a anything out there, like a coupling, I can use to bridge the gap and salvage the system, before dishing out for a new middle pipe and silencer.
Regards.
Angelo
I don't know how unusual this problem is, or not.
My middle pipe and main silencer are in relatively good condition, as a whole. But the stem from the silencer, where it goes into the middle pipe (at the stopper) has rotted away. I would like to know if there is a anything out there, like a coupling, I can use to bridge the gap and salvage the system, before dishing out for a new middle pipe and silencer.
Regards.
Angelo
Aluminum undertray for Series II?
Gents, I have search all over this forum as well as various Mazda aftermarket vendors in search of an aluminum undertray for the Series II (2010 R3 specifically).
Does anyone know if anyone makes an aftermarket aluminum tray for our car?
Does anyone know if anyone makes an aftermarket aluminum tray for our car?
Code P2259
I was driving my 8 today and the check engine light came on. When I arrived home, I plugged in my reader, and it brought up 2 codes P2259 and P2259P. How do you know if its the Air Pump Solenoid or Air Pump?
I just received a new OBDII code reader (U480) yesterday, and when I ran a check this morning before my drive, all was good-no codes. Could using my new code reader for the first time mess up the computer and cause it to throw false codes? Or is it just coincidence? Check engine light is gone now and my 8 still seems to run fine.
Any thoughts??
I just received a new OBDII code reader (U480) yesterday, and when I ran a check this morning before my drive, all was good-no codes. Could using my new code reader for the first time mess up the computer and cause it to throw false codes? Or is it just coincidence? Check engine light is gone now and my 8 still seems to run fine.
Any thoughts??
IGN1a Coil Discussion Thread
Moved from the SB Garage Group buy thread....Keep it HERE of there will be problems ;)
{ FS } PowerTrix CoilOvers SE3P - Want Local Please
samedi 27 juin 2015
Would prefer this item to be sold locally due to the weight. WI, IA, IN, IL - Midwest Area
Contact me on forum or txt at 815 Nine 1 For - Eight 2 Tree 7
Contact me on forum or txt at 815 Nine 1 For - Eight 2 Tree 7
{ FS } Greddy Turbo Kit & More
Selling the Greddy Turbo Kit - See build for Pics
http://ift.tt/1BMDVeg
**Not Breaking Kit Apart**
Greddy Kit - $3300
-Greddy BNR Upgrade
-Synapse BOV
-Greddy Profec Type II
-RX8Performance ACS Twin
-RX8Performance Turbo CAI
-COBB
-MM Fix on WG
--Driver Side Vent Cluster
---Innovate LC-2 O2 Wideband w/ Gauge - You will need to buy a new sensor.
---Streetglow Boost Gauge
Contact me on forum or txt @ 815 Nine 1 4 - Eight Too Tree 7
Will Post more pics in reserve.
http://ift.tt/1BMDVeg
**Not Breaking Kit Apart**
Greddy Kit - $3300
-Greddy BNR Upgrade
-Synapse BOV
-Greddy Profec Type II
-RX8Performance ACS Twin
-RX8Performance Turbo CAI
-COBB
-MM Fix on WG
--Driver Side Vent Cluster
---Innovate LC-2 O2 Wideband w/ Gauge - You will need to buy a new sensor.
---Streetglow Boost Gauge
Contact me on forum or txt @ 815 Nine 1 4 - Eight Too Tree 7
Will Post more pics in reserve.
Exahust
Hey guys.
So I just bought an 05 8 black cherry shinka. 28000 miles original engine. I freaking love this thing. Awesome car. Anyways I have been looking for a mazdaspeed exhaust. But I cannot seem to find one. Do they not make the exhaust anymore?
So I just bought an 05 8 black cherry shinka. 28000 miles original engine. I freaking love this thing. Awesome car. Anyways I have been looking for a mazdaspeed exhaust. But I cannot seem to find one. Do they not make the exhaust anymore?
New boy, North East Scotland
I bought a red RX8 on a whim last month as it was sitting unloved in an a marine barracks near me. It was running very roughly and has been off the road for at least a year. Getting it home was a nightmare, stalling at every junction and needing huge revs to pull away.
I have now changed the plugs, coils and leads (three of the coils had scorch marks on the base and the plugs were rusty!) also changed the oil and filter and uprated the starter motor to a new 2kw one.
The car is transformed!
Next jobs are to clay bar the body, renovate the leather, spray the wheels and fit stainless steel grilles.
I have now changed the plugs, coils and leads (three of the coils had scorch marks on the base and the plugs were rusty!) also changed the oil and filter and uprated the starter motor to a new 2kw one.
The car is transformed!
Next jobs are to clay bar the body, renovate the leather, spray the wheels and fit stainless steel grilles.
Connecticut Mechanics
Hello, recently bought an '04. Im looking to get in touch with a rotary mechanic in CT. Hartford area would be ideal, but i can travel as well.
I'd like to get a tune up on the car. Replace wires, plugs, etc..
Thanks!
I'd like to get a tune up on the car. Replace wires, plugs, etc..
Thanks!
{ FS } Black 2004 RX8 GT, 59,000 mi, 6 spd, Low compression
vendredi 26 juin 2015
Really bummed out, but the car is having trouble starting and my mechanic told me the engine has low compression. It has a bunch of mods and looks great.
GT
Navigation
Appearance Package
Engine:
lightened rotors
aem intake cai
new gen 2 coils
new plugs at 50k
Mazda maniac tuned Cobb
AP Dual Res Midpipe
2008 Exhaust
Flex Innovations Grounding Kit
Suspension:
Mazdaspeed lowering springs
Tokico Shocks
Drivetrain:
gearing upgraded
Mazda Speed Rear w/ LSD
AFE Shifter
Exterior:
19" Black 5zigen lightweight wheels
Mazdaspeed rear wing - upper
Mazdaspeed rear wing - lower
Misc:
Billet Rotor Shaped Engine Dress-up-Kit
fully sound proofed (thick lightweight butyl)
ultima battery
Audio:
alpine 3 ways in rear bose system
10" Kicker comp
Asking $4,000. The mods alone are worth that much.
Located in Rockville Centre, NY
347-829-5504
GT
Navigation
Appearance Package
Engine:
lightened rotors
aem intake cai
new gen 2 coils
new plugs at 50k
Mazda maniac tuned Cobb
AP Dual Res Midpipe
2008 Exhaust
Flex Innovations Grounding Kit
Suspension:
Mazdaspeed lowering springs
Tokico Shocks
Drivetrain:
gearing upgraded
Mazda Speed Rear w/ LSD
AFE Shifter
Exterior:
19" Black 5zigen lightweight wheels
Mazdaspeed rear wing - upper
Mazdaspeed rear wing - lower
Misc:
Billet Rotor Shaped Engine Dress-up-Kit
fully sound proofed (thick lightweight butyl)
ultima battery
Audio:
alpine 3 ways in rear bose system
10" Kicker comp
Asking $4,000. The mods alone are worth that much.
Located in Rockville Centre, NY
347-829-5504
How do I post my car for sale?
When I try to "Create a New Marketplace Listing" it tells me that I "do not have permission to access this page."
Any norteast CT members
I have a 04 RX8 with low compression, I pulled the motor and plan to rebuild. know there are others around in my town, a black one, and a Yellow one (getting LS1), not sure if anyone on here owns them. Anyways, I'm looking for someone who wants to work with me on the teardown/rebuild of my engine. I broke my neck on the racetrack so I cant physically do the work right now, and don't want the project to stall for the next three months as I recover. I have friends and family that will help, but if there is another local enthusiast that wants to get their hands dirty it would be fun.
Looking to do a stock rebuild, with possibly some modifications inside the engine bay (air pump delete, SOHN adapter, TB coolant blockoff etc.).
Thanks
Looking to do a stock rebuild, with possibly some modifications inside the engine bay (air pump delete, SOHN adapter, TB coolant blockoff etc.).
Thanks
The Map Rally, finally!
The Map Rally is back, on a new date!
The DFW Map Rally will finally be held on July 11. It will start near LBJ and US75, and end in Rockett, Texas. We will ask you to locate a dozen or so points on a map, and drive to them all and to the finish, in the shortest distance.
Leaving Al Lamb's Dallas Honda (9250 LBJ Freeway. Dallas, TX 75243), you will drive a 35-mile odometer check, which ends near the Commemorative Air Force facility in Lancaster, Texas. You will have a few minutes to examine the WWII-era aircraft that are based there, all of them still operational. Then we will use their classroom as a work area for you to examine your map(s) and determine your route. When you are ready, you will start your drive, ending at the Rockett Cafe & Club for lunch and awards. Rockett is about 8 miles from the CAF hangar as the crow flies, or 13 miles by surface roads. You will probably drive over 70 miles in finding all the assigned points, then driving to Rockett.
As usual, any street-legal car with two or more people old enough to read can enter. No special car prep is necessary. Just bring a clip board and a pencil, and you are ready to go. A magnifyer for map reading might be a good idea. There is a First Timer's class, in case you have never done any road rallying before. Low total miles travelled wins.
You can register at msreg.com/DMR15msr. If you registered before the date change, you ought to check your registration data on motorsportReg.com to make sure it is there and is correct. All those registered at MSR will be sent the "General Instructions" for the event by email, 5 or 6 days prior to the event, to study.
Any three+ cars can form a team, and the winning team will be announced at the awards ceremony. The BMW team had the best scores at our last event.
There are some rough-paved (and unpaved) roads in Ellis County, which we cannot tell you to avoid, because you make up your own route! You should have time enough to slow down on such roads, so that's not likely to be a problem. There are also some pretty roads there, and we are sure you will find some of these.
Join us!
The DFW Map Rally will finally be held on July 11. It will start near LBJ and US75, and end in Rockett, Texas. We will ask you to locate a dozen or so points on a map, and drive to them all and to the finish, in the shortest distance.
Leaving Al Lamb's Dallas Honda (9250 LBJ Freeway. Dallas, TX 75243), you will drive a 35-mile odometer check, which ends near the Commemorative Air Force facility in Lancaster, Texas. You will have a few minutes to examine the WWII-era aircraft that are based there, all of them still operational. Then we will use their classroom as a work area for you to examine your map(s) and determine your route. When you are ready, you will start your drive, ending at the Rockett Cafe & Club for lunch and awards. Rockett is about 8 miles from the CAF hangar as the crow flies, or 13 miles by surface roads. You will probably drive over 70 miles in finding all the assigned points, then driving to Rockett.
As usual, any street-legal car with two or more people old enough to read can enter. No special car prep is necessary. Just bring a clip board and a pencil, and you are ready to go. A magnifyer for map reading might be a good idea. There is a First Timer's class, in case you have never done any road rallying before. Low total miles travelled wins.
You can register at msreg.com/DMR15msr. If you registered before the date change, you ought to check your registration data on motorsportReg.com to make sure it is there and is correct. All those registered at MSR will be sent the "General Instructions" for the event by email, 5 or 6 days prior to the event, to study.
Any three+ cars can form a team, and the winning team will be announced at the awards ceremony. The BMW team had the best scores at our last event.
There are some rough-paved (and unpaved) roads in Ellis County, which we cannot tell you to avoid, because you make up your own route! You should have time enough to slow down on such roads, so that's not likely to be a problem. There are also some pretty roads there, and we are sure you will find some of these.
Join us!
Powder Coating Calipers-Rebuild Kit Needed
Hey guys Im planning to powder coat my calipers glossy red to match my Velocity Red paint and was told that I need to be sure I can get a rebuild kit for them before I take them apart.
I spoke with Autozone and the sales associate said they used to carry a kit that included the metal and rubber rings, but that was it. So I was hoping you guys might be able to point me in a better direction. My 2007 RX-8 has about 60,000 miles on it and I havent had any serious issues with it.
Thank you in advance for your help, it is greatly appreciated!
I spoke with Autozone and the sales associate said they used to carry a kit that included the metal and rubber rings, but that was it. So I was hoping you guys might be able to point me in a better direction. My 2007 RX-8 has about 60,000 miles on it and I havent had any serious issues with it.
Thank you in advance for your help, it is greatly appreciated!
200 is hosting another 4th of july party
its that time so heres the invite. this wont be a wrenching meet tho just a party with lots of drinks, food and fireworks. the usual crew knows where im at and whats up but if any noobs want to come pm me for directions and details
{ FS } AEM like intake with Venturi Mod
jeudi 25 juin 2015
I picked up this intake, and decided to try out putting a venturi on the front to see if it performs better.
Never got around to trying it. If science holds true, then it should...
The SCIENCE:
boxed up and ready to go - 350 shipped obo
Never got around to trying it. If science holds true, then it should...
The SCIENCE:
boxed up and ready to go - 350 shipped obo
Insurance options???
Okay so I just got a 2004 mazda rx8 and I'm in need of some advice on the best/cheapest Insurance! I'm 17 so I'm trying to save for college and whatnot so I just need help on deciding on what Insurance to get! Any ideas??
Fuel Pump Issues - 2004 Rx8
Hello, I have a 2004 Rx8. Went to pump gas yesterday and saw a bunch of gas coming out from below the car. Lifted up the rear driver seat and saw gas flowing out of the little tiny holes on the retainer cap. Popped open the fuel pump area and saw that it's about full tank already. Threw in another o-ring on. After trying to clean up that area, I started the car up and drove an hour home. Fuel gauge reads half tank at the time of pumping it up, but I am not sure if this is correct. When I got home it was on E with the orange light lit up. I am pretty sure it should have more gas than that.
Today I thought I'd tackle the fuel pump again. The o-ring is there, but I am not sure if I am installing it correctly. I have it installed under the fuel pump assembly so fuel pump would be on top of it and then the big plastic cap over everything. There was still plenty of gas. I want to say 1/4 of gas left in it. Pumped $20 gas and the gas flows out of the holes again.
I would like to get this fix. Please help. Thanks!
Today I thought I'd tackle the fuel pump again. The o-ring is there, but I am not sure if I am installing it correctly. I have it installed under the fuel pump assembly so fuel pump would be on top of it and then the big plastic cap over everything. There was still plenty of gas. I want to say 1/4 of gas left in it. Pumped $20 gas and the gas flows out of the holes again.
I would like to get this fix. Please help. Thanks!
Fuel Delivery Lag
Hey guys,
Hoping some people can chime in with some ideas on what I am seeing on my data logs. First a little bit of background:
- Greddy Turbo kit
- HKS SSQV BOV (VTA)
- Rx8 Performance CAI
- GReddy Profec Bspec II EBC
- Stock Fuel Injectors
- Deatschwerks DW200 Fuel Pump
I recently installed my new Rx8 Performance intake and GReddy EBC. After installing these I got a complete re-tune done by that beauty Mr. BRETTSPEED. Everything is running excellent with the new mods apart from one thing; this was noticed during some logging while attempting to home in my EBC settings.
From a coast when I press down my accelerator to WOT and my turbo spools up I am seeing loads and MAF increase as expected, but my AFR's do not start decreasing to a safe rich value until about 1+ seconds after the throttle has been depressed to 99%. In some cases I am seeing loads of over 100% while still seeing AFR's in the 20's!
My first initial thought was that this must be a tuning issue, but chatting with Brett and having him review multiple datalogs using multiple tunes (dug out an old MM tune I had from back in 2011 and did a datalog to find the same issue occurring) I think we have reasonable information to eliminate this as a tuning issue.
My next thought is that maybe my injectors are sticking causing this delay in fuel delivery. To add to this as a note; currently on my fuel pressure gauge at idle I see about 56psi (seems low to me but I've seen this same pressure using 3 different fuel pumps) and when I go WOT I see it drop to a worst case low of about 52psi. Could be related to this but I don't believe it would be because once my AFR's drop they hold right to redline.
Any thoughts out there as to what could be causing this 1 second delay in fuel delivery? I have attached a 3rd gear datalog showing this delay as well. This log was taken with my EBC off and running a max 6psi of boost off the stock Greddy actuator.
Hoping some people can chime in with some ideas on what I am seeing on my data logs. First a little bit of background:
- Greddy Turbo kit
- HKS SSQV BOV (VTA)
- Rx8 Performance CAI
- GReddy Profec Bspec II EBC
- Stock Fuel Injectors
- Deatschwerks DW200 Fuel Pump
I recently installed my new Rx8 Performance intake and GReddy EBC. After installing these I got a complete re-tune done by that beauty Mr. BRETTSPEED. Everything is running excellent with the new mods apart from one thing; this was noticed during some logging while attempting to home in my EBC settings.
From a coast when I press down my accelerator to WOT and my turbo spools up I am seeing loads and MAF increase as expected, but my AFR's do not start decreasing to a safe rich value until about 1+ seconds after the throttle has been depressed to 99%. In some cases I am seeing loads of over 100% while still seeing AFR's in the 20's!
My first initial thought was that this must be a tuning issue, but chatting with Brett and having him review multiple datalogs using multiple tunes (dug out an old MM tune I had from back in 2011 and did a datalog to find the same issue occurring) I think we have reasonable information to eliminate this as a tuning issue.
My next thought is that maybe my injectors are sticking causing this delay in fuel delivery. To add to this as a note; currently on my fuel pressure gauge at idle I see about 56psi (seems low to me but I've seen this same pressure using 3 different fuel pumps) and when I go WOT I see it drop to a worst case low of about 52psi. Could be related to this but I don't believe it would be because once my AFR's drop they hold right to redline.
Any thoughts out there as to what could be causing this 1 second delay in fuel delivery? I have attached a 3rd gear datalog showing this delay as well. This log was taken with my EBC off and running a max 6psi of boost off the stock Greddy actuator.
Frankenstein s4 13bt swap
I opted out of the rew because I already had the motor so don't give me blah blah blah rew this and rew that you need rew -_- . motor came from my fc drift car, decent run down... S4 t2 with Cosmo RE housings, rotors, e shaft and weights... Largest street port my builder could do, built by Eccentric Motorsports in Indy. Rebuilt with goopy 2mm seals, hybrid s5 turbo with ported s5 wastegate, and Garrett .60 ar compressor side. 1000cc secondary and primary injectors.
This is my new drift build, I love my fc but needed a newer chassis and I didn't want to try and find a fd. found this ugly yellow Rx8 shell and started getting things together and ready will add more pics and info when I can. As of this point and time car just needs a tune but will fill in everything in between with free time. Car is running on a microsquirt ecu,

Donor engine and setup :)

When the car was picked up
This is my new drift build, I love my fc but needed a newer chassis and I didn't want to try and find a fd. found this ugly yellow Rx8 shell and started getting things together and ready will add more pics and info when I can. As of this point and time car just needs a tune but will fill in everything in between with free time. Car is running on a microsquirt ecu,
Donor engine and setup :)
When the car was picked up
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