New R3 owner

lundi 31 octobre 2016

I got a new to me Velocity Red R3 a few days ago from msp282 on the forum. I had looked at a few 8s before a few years ago but ended up with an S2000. The S2000 was great but the small interior and loud highway noise got old.

It has a reman engine with a little over 5k miles on it. It has new plugs, wires, cat, o2 sensors. I didn't see coils in the paperwork so I'm ordering a set tomorrow. I already have or ordered oil, filter, trans fluid, diff fluid, air filter, and cabin filter.

Pressing the bluetooth button doesn't do anything, so I'll be looking into that.

I'm not a fan of the Recaros so I will probably swap in some stock seats. I really liked the Shinka seats in an 8 a test drove years ago. Not sure how hard those are to get though.


New R3 owner

{ FS } Few Remaining Parts

I have a few parts left from my RX-8 part out that I need gone.

Alternator $60
High Torque Starter $50
Injectors $20 each
Oil Metering Pump $100
Keyless System $100

-Keyless sytem includes 2 remotes, Keyless module and Keyless Receiver.
The wiring diagram also shows a "Coil" but I believe this part was already junked.

All items are being sold as-is
Everything worked before parting out the car.
Will ship at buyers expense

Please contact me with any questions on these parts or prices. I need them gone

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{ FS } Few Remaining Parts

high rpms

hey I have an rx-8 with 92,000 miles and the car only moves when the rpms are pretty high and seems to have a great loss of power. any suggestions of what it could be


high rpms

Plugs from a 31,000 mile car - photo

dimanche 30 octobre 2016

Very surprised to see the restrictive rules for new members participating and creating discussions. I see it is purposeful, but it seems to me to be beyond almost any other car forum, for instance miata.net, etc. That said, this is a good resource.

I am looking at a 2009 RX-8 with 31,000 miles. I am waiting for a compression check. In the meantime, the plugs were changed. Can anyone comment on this photo of the plus taken out, and how this might relate to engine condition?

Can these be typical plugs for a 31,000 mile car? Or are these out of the ordinary for a an original set?

Thanks, Steve K.

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Plugs from a 31,000 mile car - photo

{WTB} Alternator

Looking for an alternator for a 04.


{WTB} Alternator

Just got back on Rotary side...Got an RX-8

Hi,

Just recently got an 2010 Mazda RX-8 GT 6-MT only had 51,567 miles on it...i had an RX-7 a while back and had it till it was 200,000 + miles and it was still strong until the frae got cracked and ended up junking it back in 2011...saddest day ever...and was driving a 2003 Toyota Corolla for a good while and got a 2016 Prius 6 months ago which i put serious miles on...38,000!

But i decided to trade the Prius in and get an RX-8! Now im back!
Something about driving Rotary powered vehicles really pulls me in all the time!

Ok now a few starting questions...

1. I noticed that there is only one reservior for the Clutch and Brake...how would you bleed both at the same time?

2. I now see that NGK has iridium Spark plugs for Trailing and Leading...do you still have to replace them every 30K miles...or they actualy last 80K now like newer cars?

3. I cant seem to find the Oil filter for the Series 2...i know i can grab it from the top side on the Series 1?

4. Series 2 Ciols are supposed to be more durable?

5. Can i program the Key Fob credit card to do certain things?

6. Pressing the button on the driver side only unlocks the driver side, but pressing the button on passenger side unlocks both...is there a way i can change settings for it?

7. While i picked s Series 2 due to more reliability changes...i like some things on Series 1 body style...are the skirt, fenders compatible with series 2?

8. Is there a repair manual on this site soewhere?

9. Mazda still honors the 8 year 100K mile core warranty correct?

10. Where can i find the R3 19" wheels and other accessories for cheap?

Sorry i had to many questionsand ill probably ask more later...just exited being a Rotary owner again!


Just got back on Rotary side...Got an RX-8

What is the Dumbest Thing You Have Done to Your RX-8?

The biggest car-related brain fart of my life came last night.

I had just arrived home from the track. My car burns 1/2 quart of oil on a typical track day. I take oil to the track, but I normally wait until I get home to top it off using the 5qt jug of Mobil 1 0W40 instead of the 1qt bottle I keep with me. I did that as normal while the car was still warm. Then it hit me.

I smelled the distinct odor of fried chicken. In that instant, I knew what I had done.

A few weeks ago, I fried up some southern pan fried chicken. I disposed of the oil in an empty Mobil 1 jug and forgot to mark it "OLD". When I looked at the level stripe on the side of the jug yesterday, I saw clean looking oil, so I used it. It looked clean coming out of the jug, too.

I'm headed out to the garage now to drain the oil pan, flush it with mineral spirits, let it dry, and refill it.

Not only was that a stupid move; it was also a costly move. I just changed the oil last week. So much for a $25 jug of Mobil 1.


What is the Dumbest Thing You Have Done to Your RX-8?

2016 vison and advice on 4 port bridge with standalone

Hi Guys been searching around and everyone seems to think its crap.
So naturally i dicided to do it haha.
actually this is different. heres is my plan and i have allready bought most of the parts but before i start spending to much time and money? Does anyone have any advice ore experience.
I have remowed everything from the stock wiring harness from the intire car and will not be reusing anything
a few questeing to.
what fuelpressure should i run with this setup offcourse i will take out the stock regulator from the unit.
is the 2 stock injectors gonna be enough?

4 port renessis rebuild with goopy.
Bridgeport this one offcourse only using the 4 port stuff Kyle Mohan Racing | Performance Parts and Services
stock intake with all valves fully open and fixed.
throttle body converted to 70 mm manuel.
Stock exhaust manifold (because of raceclass regulations)
3" from manifold to dual 2½" exhaust with only a 100 cell cat at each side i might fit a mufler before each cat iff its to laud.
Haltech elite 550
d585 coils
walbro fuel pump
6 speed gearbox with 5,33 rear diff.

Any advice is appreciated?.
And before you ask and start saying to buy a 6 port i believe the 4 port is gonna be a more powerfull engine with more torque i might not get 10000 rpm with HP but i hope and believe that i can get alot of torque from down low to maybe 8 or 9000 rpm.

But what do you think?

best regards and thank you in advance Rasmus Denmark

oh and by the way its a Tarmac rallycar.


2016 vison and advice on 4 port bridge with standalone

HELP! can't shift into any gears when engine is on :(

hi everyone,

I pressed my clutch pedal and i heard something snapped while i was driving.
luckily i just turned into my street. As soon as i was in a complete stop, i tried to shift into reverse but it wouldn't allow me, the gears were very stiff.
i can shift gears when the engine is not on! But when it's on, it wouldn't allow me.
i have checked my clutch pedal and i noticed the brace is snapped."
but how does this affect changing into gears when the engine is running? or is it a different issue why it's not shifting into any gears?

please help


HELP! can't shift into any gears when engine is on :(

Best Jack Stand

samedi 29 octobre 2016

I cant decide on which jack stand to get. Suggestions anyone? I'm looking at the Harbor Freight - Pittsburgh Alum Floor Jack 1 1/2 ton (35 lbs) vs. the Costco, Arcan 3 ton jack (56 lbs). Thoughts?


Best Jack Stand

1.8t 20v swap

Best way for me to get this to the point I'm at is to copy form another forum. Please bare with me. I'll get there over the next few days.

Cheers John


1.8t 20v swap

An introduction and maybe a problem.

I wanted to post just to say hello at some point but thought this would be the best place and time to do so. Just purchased a 2004 RX8 this Monday and did so with a good bit of knowledge on the vehicle, though none of it first hand so some things were missed.

However despite this it seems to have dodged a great deal of the typical issues thanks to the first owner (carfax reports are great) keeping it for 10 years or so and doing an amazing job with the maintenance records. the following two owners weren't so keen on the vehicle which is how its pleasantly parked outside, but they at least held it together before it got here.

Also a reason for buying is I have a good deal of local support for the car, a friend who runs a mechanic shop 15 minutes from home has hot rodded Rx-7's his entire life and is my local go to for most car stuff i can't handle (no shop sucks though that's being dealt with before december hopefully)

Another bud is a Mazda tech who's worked on these things since highschool, went to college and bam, he's been with them ever since. Great guy, a little dry but good none the less.

To give a bit of information about myself, I'm just your average 33 year old guy who isn't interested in a vehicle unless its unusual, a sports car, or screams "diesel" as it tows things down the road. So Rx7 / 8 oh yeah, that's where I like to be. I can be a bit of an idiot though (and I actually mean that) so I try to keep my opinions to myself as often as possible, watch, listen and such before opening my mouth.

Anyway on to the car itself. First owner ran it for around 70-80k miles having the engine replaced at around the typical 30k mark with every single issues dealt with by a dealership and their warranty.

That said I wasn't sold on these cars initially, then I went over a checklist with the mazda tech, my local guy, and we hit up as many checks on the car as we could at the sellers place (couldn't get a compression test, i know) but most of the other stuff checked out, no power stalls, no odd engine lights, etc: oil was good, temp didn't budge. Even the clutch assembly seemed really well put together for a 12 year old car. no squeaking, bodys a little rough but screw that, it'll get dealt with as well.

Things I know it needs, a better starter for sure it takes a while to start and like s to be a bit rough for a short bit so I think its flooding slightly.

That said that's not my biggest concern due to where I live, we don't have emissions tests so that cat's days were numbered the moment I snagged it anyway.

I was really glad to read the 4k cruising part of the "new guy" stuff on here, which that thread was MASSIVELY helpful in calming my nerves with the following issue. (50% of the reason for this post though most likely already diagnosed)

There is an oil smell after driving the car, and it appears to be allover the front of the engine, so tubes, engine itself, bottom of the alternator, the usual stuff. Was told by a friend who's a mazda tech (guy mentioned earlier) who's worked with the 13b's a lot that it's likely the front main seal, not a huge issue to replace I'm told.

But I decided to do some searching on good ole google which landed me here and I happened upon the old "White smoke isn't oil"

"oh... ****..."

I thought, so i began reading and trying to see other problems that I might be encountering. But to my knowledge I'm not smelling coolant. and the car doesn't seem to suffer power loss that I'm aware of while driving. Even made the drive home from Dallas Texas to the outskirts of Houston pretty well. Except the oil smell...

I cleaned the engine off yesterday and ran it a bit longer today to see if maybe it was just caked up oil on the items under the hood from previous issues and no it is not.

Thus begins the Rotary journey I suppose.

I should go ahead and be forth coming with my plans for the vehicle though not soon I hope, I'd like to eventually either swap the engine for a turbo model, or FI the 13B i already have after a rebuild so it can handle it. I hope none of this has to happen soon, I'd prefer to just enjoy the car after taking care of the problems it comes stock with since it's not going to be a track car of any kind, at least not now.

Hopefully this didn't make for a bad post or a hard to read one, any info on the car issues would be appreciated but it's going to be looked at soon by said mechanic anyway. Thanks guys!


An introduction and maybe a problem.

DC area Mazda dealers help restore 1991 Mazda 626 still being driven daily.



DC area Mazda dealers help restore 1991 Mazda 626 still being driven daily.

Mazda video_To the driver in all of us



Mazda video_To the driver in all of us

Suspected Fuel Delivery issue?

I've searched many times for a thread that deals with a very sporadic, but alarming issue I've had 3 times in the last 4 months.

Possibly TL/DR, but I want to go into detail since I haven't read about this specific issue before.

Most of my driving is interstate commuting, short errands, and occasional recreational twisty road excursions.

The first time it happened I attributed it to a temporarily installed cheap cat that was on my 8 for a couple of weeks to pass emissions inspection;

Leaving a car wash on a hot July day after having sat in line for a while, my car suddenly started sputtering, stalling, and dying repeatedly, to the point where I was stuck on the street with flashers on trying to get it to run long enough to move it.
I could feather the throttle enough to keep it running, but every time I put it in gear, it would sputter and die.
It seemed like misfiring, but with no CEL.
It seemed to be heating the cat up to the point of smoking.
After about a long 5 or 10 minutes, it started to stay running long enough where I was able to drive home a mile away at about 20-30 mph with it sputtering when I would try to accelerate.
By the time I got home, it seemed to be getting better.
I took the cat off, and it ran normally for a couple of months.

The last 2 instances occurred in nearly identical circumstances about a month apart;

Warm, but not hot days, driving through rolling city streets at 30-40 mph with frequent red light stops for about 20 minutes going to the same chicken joint drivethru after work.
Both times, when leaving the drive thru and entering traffic, the same sputtering and dying issues occurred almost identically, where I could barely get it off the street and feather the throttle for about 10 minutes or so with it dying a couple of times.
Both times, after going through it about the same amount of time, it would suddenly start running normally again as if nothing ever happened.

Took it out this morning onto the interstate for some 80 mph cruising for about 10 miles, getting off exits into city stop and go traffic, then back onto the highway with fast, high RPM gear shifting with no issues, just like before.

Read the OBD with the Torque app, no codes at all.

I suspect it could be the aftermarket Chinese fuel pump I installed a couple of years ago acting squirrelly, but I really don't know.

I will attempt to troubleshoot it, but in my experience, sporadic issues like these are nearly impossible to pinpoint unless the problem is occurring at the time.

I'm thinking about buying a quality, RX8 Club recommended fuel pump just to see if it helps.
I'm a good nuts & bolts guy, but electrical troubleshooting is still a mystery.

Any input is appreciated.


Suspected Fuel Delivery issue?

{WTB} Driver Side Mirror Trim Peice

I am looking to get the little black rounded off triangular peice that goes underneath the driver side mirror.

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{WTB} Driver Side Mirror Trim Peice

{ FS } Complete interior from 2007 with 40k miles

I have a complete interior I pulled from a 2007 Rx8 with 40k miles on it. Was very clean.

Leather interior but the seats were swapped out for two tone cloth.

Mostly every part is there even the small plastic parts etc.

Cant guarantee its 100% of the interior but is close to it.

Looking for $495


Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


{ FS } Complete interior from 2007 with 40k miles

Circuit of The Americas (COTA) Track Event February 24-26, 2017

Good Morning:

I hope this finds each of you in good spirits as we trek through Fall toward Winter. I for one think a more southern location is in the cards. Perhaps a mid-Winter trip to sunny, warm Austin, Texas?!

For the fifth year in a row MVP Track Time is headed to Texas. It’s time to sign up for three days of driving on America’s only purpose built F1 track, Circuit of The Americas (COTA) in Austin, Texas. MVP Track Time has scheduled our 5th annual three-day COTA track event for February 24 – 26, 2017.

Now for the moment you’ve all been waiting for, the investment to play at COTA. The entry fee for all three days is $1,375, same price and 2014-2016. If you’d like to register for a single day or two days, contact me at (314) 249-3770.

Initially, as with our previous COTA events, this event will be for ADVANCED and INTERMEDIATE skill/experience drivers only. If demand warrants it, we may open COTA to novice attendees.

If you are in doubt whether you meet the Advanced or Intermediate criteria, call me at (314) 249-3770 to discuss your experience. There are a limited number of spots available for COTA. Yes, COTA fills fast.


STEP 1
The $1,375 entry fee for all three days at COTA can only be completed with Pay Pal (you can use any major credit card through the Pay Pal system if you don’t have a Pay Pal account) at the link below:

http://ift.tt/1sAn6d4


STEP 2
Once you have completed the entry fee, head over to the “Registration Page” of MVP’s web site (link below) to register. You’ll need to scroll to the bottom of the page to complete the blue outlined registration box. Click on the“Event” drop-down menu and choose Circuit of The Americas (COTA): February 24-26, 2017.

http://ift.tt/1AC1eCs


After we have allocated the registrations by run group, based on individual track experience, we will send out group confirmation e-mails to each run group. We will have four (blue, green, yellow and red) run groups allowing us to schedule two hours of track time daily.

In the spirit of transparency, the rental of COTA, as you can guess, is very expensive, so once you register, MVP will not be able to give you a refund until COTA is sold out and we have a replacement for you. If/when we can replace you, there will be a $100 cancellation fee. Inside of four weeks (January 26, 2017 and later) prior to the COTA event there is no refund. This is the expensive reality of renting Circuit of The Americas.

A ”Garage Rental” e-mail will go out when registration is complete. Each garage easily holds four cars, so there are plenty to go around, however, they are first come, first served.

If you have any questions, grab the phone and call me at (314) 249-3770 or you can e-mail Feffman@MVPTrackTime.com.

Happy Motoring and I hope to see you at COTA. Enjoy your day.

Mark Pfeffer – MVP Track Time
www.MVPTrackTime.com
Phone: (314) 249-3770
E-mail: Feffman@MVPTrackTime.com


Circuit of The Americas (COTA) Track Event February 24-26, 2017

Circuit of The Americas (COTA) Track Event February 24-26, 2017

Good Morning:

I hope this finds each of you in good spirits as we trek through Fall toward Winter. I for one think a more southern location is in the cards. Perhaps a mid-Winter trip to sunny, warm Austin, Texas?!

For the fifth year in a row MVP Track Time is headed to Texas. It’s time to sign up for three days of driving on America’s only purpose built F1 track, Circuit of The Americas (COTA) in Austin, Texas. MVP Track Time has scheduled our 5th annual three-day COTA track event for February 24 – 26, 2017.

Now for the moment you’ve all been waiting for, the investment to play at COTA. The entry fee for all three days is $1,375, same price and 2014-2016. If you’d like to register for a single day or two days, contact me at (314) 249-3770.

Initially, as with our previous COTA events, this event will be for ADVANCED and INTERMEDIATE skill/experience drivers only. If demand warrants it, we may open COTA to novice attendees.

If you are in doubt whether you meet the Advanced or Intermediate criteria, call me at (314) 249-3770 to discuss your experience. There are a limited number of spots available for COTA. Yes, COTA fills fast.


STEP 1
The $1,375 entry fee for all three days at COTA can only be completed with Pay Pal (you can use any major credit card through the Pay Pal system if you don’t have a Pay Pal account) at the link below:

http://ift.tt/1sAn6d4


STEP 2
Once you have completed the entry fee, head over to the “Registration Page” of MVP’s web site (link below) to register. You’ll need to scroll to the bottom of the page to complete the blue outlined registration box. Click on the“Event” drop-down menu and choose Circuit of The Americas (COTA): February 24-26, 2017.

http://ift.tt/1AC1eCs


After we have allocated the registrations by run group, based on individual track experience, we will send out group confirmation e-mails to each run group. We will have four (blue, green, yellow and red) run groups allowing us to schedule two hours of track time daily.

In the spirit of transparency, the rental of COTA, as you can guess, is very expensive, so once you register, MVP will not be able to give you a refund until COTA is sold out and we have a replacement for you. If/when we can replace you, there will be a $100 cancellation fee. Inside of four weeks (January 26, 2017 and later) prior to the COTA event there is no refund. This is the expensive reality of renting Circuit of The Americas.

A ”Garage Rental” e-mail will go out when registration is complete. Each garage easily holds four cars, so there are plenty to go around, however, they are first come, first served.

If you have any questions, grab the phone and call me at (314) 249-3770 or you can e-mail Feffman@MVPTrackTime.com.

Happy Motoring and I hope to see you at COTA. Enjoy your day.

Mark Pfeffer – MVP Track Time
www.MVPTrackTime.com
Phone: (314) 249-3770
E-mail: Feffman@MVPTrackTime.com

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Circuit of The Americas (COTA) Track Event February 24-26, 2017

Key sense

vendredi 28 octobre 2016

Hello everybody

I have a red rx8 2008 i try to put an alarm and remote start the brand is spy we done everything except start the car without the key in i search almost 1 hour and i cant find what i can do for disarm turn off or disconect the key sense if somebody can help me or tell me something to do
Thanks in advance :worship:


Key sense

RX-8 Stuck in gear but not really?

Whats up guys,

I just moved over from the S-Chassis life but but ive owned multiple cars i'm pretty car literate.


Okay getting to the point,

recently i bought a 2004 RX-8 90k Miles, Very healthy good compression, premix, etc etc.
car is very well taken cared of,

i had a horrible 2nd gear grind, one night on a high roll i attempted to put it in 2nd and it grinded very bad then 5th gear would not go in neither 1st gear (i had to roll then put it in 1st)

This became an issue but eventually it continued going into 5th and every now and then 1st without having to roll it into gear.

I've heard this is due to 5th gear syncro breaking and pieces block off reverse. So i hear.

One morning im running some erands and the i been driving the car all morning and it decides to get stuck into reverse, when i yanked it out of reverse it would not manuver in neutral. It almost felt very dry and stiff.

i got it to go into gear a few days later (Big *** burnout cleared something out)


then i put it into reverse and it got stuck... again. So here i am, asking you guys for help and advice. I'm considering just swapping entire transmission but is this a common issue with an easy fix?


RX-8 Stuck in gear but not really?

{ FS } Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers w/ extra bottoms

For sale are a set of Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers with approximately 10,000 miles of street use. These have 24 step rebound adjustment and are rebuildable. I've also included extra bottom mounts for the rear that will allow the car to drop very low.

Spring rates:
Front 10K
Rear 6K

These were made to order coilovers, in which I waited a month for them to be made. I was planning to make my rx8 a track car, but as of now those plans are on hold, plus I live very far away from any track. $1,000 shipped. I accept paypal.

http://ift.tt/1zjGP8I

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{ FS } Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers w/ extra bottoms

Canadian engine rebuilders

Where are all the rotary engine builders in canada. Well there is one in saint john NB. Its called Saint John Engine Rebuilders
They resurface, rebuild and port if wanted. So far all good words from the people. Is there any other here in canada?


Canadian engine rebuilders

Hi from Italy

Hi, my name is Stefano and I'm from Italy. I've got a '05 231cv Mazda RX-8 that I'd like to swap with a 13B Rew.


Hi from Italy

{ FS } Unmarried AccessPort with cable, SW, and Accesstuner Race

AccessPort tuner, OBDII cable, original software CD, burned copy of AccessTunerRace tuning software. Just unmarried it from 2005 RX8. I can also include my maps, for what they're worth - 25% increase in OMP, lower fan turnon, and modded dwell settings for LS7 coils.

Asking $350 shipped. Respond with cell # and I will text picture of startup screen showing it is uninstalled from my car.

I take USPS money orders and paypal.

It is located in Charleston, SC if local and interested.

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{ FS } Unmarried AccessPort with cable, SW, and Accesstuner Race

Instrument panel and immobilizer issues

Have an odd issue with my 05 rx8
Most of the time I get in the car and start it with no issues. But at random it has been either starting with every light on the dash on and none of the gauges working. Or it won't start and flashes the immobiliser symbol. Other times it works great with neither issue. I changed the battery yesterday to make sure that isn't an issue. But I am wondering if it is a ground issue somewhere causing it. Any ideas?


Instrument panel and immobilizer issues

{WTB} Wtb: mazdaspeed strut bar (s)

I'm looking for a Mazdaspeed Strut bar in Mint shape. Please pm with details if you have one. Thank you


{WTB} Wtb: mazdaspeed strut bar (s)

Kid's Car-seats

What are you all doing with your kids car-seats in the 8?

Whenever I have my daughter's seat in the 8, it crushes the headrest with the top strap going to the latch mount.

Obviously her safety trumps all... but do any of you have pictures of your (front facing) car -seats in there that the top strap isnt crushing in that head rest? Maybe a taller car seat or something?

Her car seat is also causing deep denting into the seat part as well where a few "sharp" angles press in, but I think I found a good solution that doesn't obstruct the seat's tightness/mounting for that (had an extra floor mat, put it upsidown on the seat since it's a thin/harder material). They make actual mats to go under car seats and this is virtually the same thing.

Just curious how you all are doing it with kids.


Kid's Car-seats

{ FS } BC Coilover less than 3k miles

Selling a set of BC coilover, it was brand new installed in hong kong, but then engine blew about 3k miles later. And owner sold me the car.

430 includes shipping to pretty much anywhere in the states. Its fairly heavy so im not making much off from it.

With less than 3k miles its pretty much brand new.

Pm me if interest, i usually reply within a day.

I will take it off the car in a few days to snap some pic

Thx:smoker:

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{ FS } BC Coilover less than 3k miles

{WTB} Battery Cover and Hold down Hardware

Looking to purchase a battery cover and hold down hardware (j-bolts and hold down bar) for my 05. The battery box would be a plus too since mine is split on one of the sides. Located in zip 44089 for shipping.


{WTB} Battery Cover and Hold down Hardware

{WTB} Catalytic Converter in CO

jeudi 27 octobre 2016

I'm looking for a replacement Catalytic converter. Needs to bolt up to the stock exhaust. OEM or Replacement is fine as long as it's not a garbage one.

Would like to find one locally I'm in Northern Colorado but willing to go just about anywhere in the state or in Southern Wyoming.


{WTB} Catalytic Converter in CO

{WTB} Radiator

Looking for a radiator that fits the S1. Preferably aluminum radiator. Need ASAP!


{WTB} Radiator

Reply if you can help

I am wondering if anyone has an engine rotor that was taken out of a car or something Broken or not broken is fine. I need one to teach how the rotary engine works.


Reply if you can help

2004 Mazda Rx8 wont start.

This week I've encountered a little trouble with my 04 mazda. The car was running perfect, but did have a little trouble on a cold start when running. I went to start my car the day after it was used, and it wouldn't start. figured it was the battery, so I charged it, and still didn't start. We then thought it was flooded we gave it two days without trying to start it. This morning I just tried to start it again while pushing in on the gas, yet again, it did not start. The car does start to smell a little like gas after trying it several times. All the dash lights are on while trying to start the car. The car has a new starter in it as well. Any ideas on what could be causing the problem and how to fix it, I really want to figure out the main cause of this so I am not replacing parts that don't necessarily need to be replaced.

Thank You!


2004 Mazda Rx8 wont start.

Rusty MK.II!

Hello gentlemen!

So first and foremost, I am really starting this post to log my car and progress and projects and stuff. I do have another site that helps me keep track of parts used on the car, but I think this will be a good place for me to have a written log of the vehicle.

Background:
I started off with a 2004 Titanium Grey RX-8 GT, and had that for about two (2) years. The car had been serving me very faithfully, and I am very pleased to have own the vehicle. My wife and I have been on many road trips with the car. We had named the car "Rusty" (as you guys may have already noticed), simply because of the amount of rust that was on the vehicle.

Fast forward two (2) years, and I have finally picked up a new RX-8! It is a 2010 RX-8 R3, Velocity Red, with just under 50,000KMs when I had picked the car up. I had went all the way to Montreal to pick up the car, and drove it back, so naturally the car has just over 50,000KMs now.

A small dent on driver front fender, and scuff marks on the rear bumper, but other than that the interior was good, and paint is still in very good condition. I have already gotten the car rustproofed, and will be getting a ceramic coating done on the vehicle as well, because I really want to baby the vehicle. This is ultimately going to be my project car, and already have a 10 to 15 year plan set up.

Having said that, since this is going to be my only car, I will have to drive the vehicle during the winter time for the first year at the very least; hence the rustproofing, and then I will be washing the underside of the vehicle everyday to try and keep the vehicle in as good a shape as possible.

The other option is to try and get my insurance agent to put on the insurance for my 2004 RX-8 for the winter months, which I am still looking into that to compare the pricing, and if it is worth spending the extra money to do that or not; or if I should just sell the 2004 RX-8? Well, that is for another time.

If any of you guys on here want to ever leave me any pointers or comments, please feel free and do so!

Christopher


Rusty MK.II!

Just Bought an RX-8? Check the MAF!

I am a new Rx-8 owner and, like most of us, have at least known that we did not know so we are here. I just want to put this straight forward, before and after with pic + OBD ii reports out there for the rest of the new guys. If you have yet to check your MAF sensor, DO IT NOW! I almost killed my 8 because I did not do a thorough check up immediately following the purchase, it caused a world of trouble! In four days my 8 was stuttering idle, could barely reverse up my inclined driveway, was running way to rich and sometimes would not make it to red line!

It is important to note that following this I reset the NVRAM to allow the Fuel Trim and O2 sensors to re calibrate.

Turn key on and within 8 seconds stomp the brake 20 times (success indicated by the temp gauge jumping toward H in some models)

Then turn key off, turn key on and in order to get the DTC light to stop blinking you need to turn your wheels all the way to the right and then all the way to the left. It should be off now.

The first attachment is a report generated by my ACTRON code scanner, even if you do not know how to read it, look at the fuel trim numbers, MAF numbers and the O2 sensor readings, heck it messed with darn near every sensor in the car. Just compare the two, this is just for those who need visual aids.

I used hydrogen peroxide to clean the MAF, it took about 20 minutes total. Notice that the dirty MAF pic is covered in what appears to be oil. I also checked the air intake (I already picked up a new air filter and through out the K and N).

I have seen a lot of comments from new guys asking what stuff looks like and what a OBD ii report reads like, here is before and after reports.

I hope this helps someone, I pretty much was up all night making sure I had my 8 running and now I have to go to work.

Bests

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: Dirty MAF.jpg Views: N/A Size: 3.01 MB ID: 214899   Click image for larger version Name: Clean MAF.jpg Views: N/A Size: 152.5 KB ID: 214900  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 102616_RX8_Drive_Test_OBD2.pdf (222.6 KB)
File Type: pdf 102716_RX8_Post_MAF_Repair.pdf (198.1 KB)


Just Bought an RX-8? Check the MAF!

Rx8 addiction.

mercredi 26 octobre 2016

Been lingering a while, just thought I'd say hi.

Bought my first rx8 a couple of years ago with the intention of building a track car & doing an engine swap. But as soon as my girlfriend see it & I got it running, it was hers. So the hunt started for another her one. Got that & started to do my swap. Then one came up at a price a couldn't refuse. Now have 3. One with blowed engine, one mid swap & one runner. Love the way they look & the driving position.

Cheers John


Rx8 addiction.

RX-8, long rides and noise-canceling headphones

Anyone try Bose QuietComfort headphones on a long, droning, 75-mph road trip?

I love the sound of my 8 but, just for the hell of it, I've worn these on some 6-hour interstate drives and wow! All the tire and road roar just melts away. Yet I could still easily hear horns, sirens, even the radio. And when I arrived I felt, well, surprisingly fresh. Less tired than a 6-hour drive normally makes me feel. Same relief you get from wearing 'em on a long flight.

If you drive long distances, think about it.


RX-8, long rides and noise-canceling headphones

{ FS } Greddy EVO TT exhaust

Looking to sell my Greddy Evo TT exhaust
Will post pictures of condition soon.
Feel free to message me number if you would like the pics via email or text
The exhaust is in decent shape
Feel free to make an offer...currently have it set for $400 OBO (+Shipping)

Also have an Axialflow Shifter for sale as well
Looking to get $150 + Shipping


Parts are still on car so will need some time to gather items and post pictures.


Thank you
-Nelson


{ FS } Greddy EVO TT exhaust

{ FS } BHR Throttle Body Spacer

Looking to sell my BHR Throttle Body Spacer
Looking to get $50 +Shipping
Located in MI

Pics can be sent via email or text.
Will add pics on here soon.
Item is in great shape.

Thank you


{ FS } BHR Throttle Body Spacer

To much oil?

Been a while since I posted, always come here because everyone is so helpful. Just how your supposed to do, every other fill up I add some oil in. I'm thinking I poured to much? I just went to do that again and I popped my hood, and I have oil in the air box area? Can't do what I need to do till tomorrow? Would I just clean out the k&n air intake and MAF or do I have to do anything else? And is this problem extra serious. Thank you.


To much oil?

new rx8 problems

so ive bought this rx8 for 500 euro...For nothing 2004
65.000miles...previous owner complaining of hot start problem.
ive put a new battery in it ....engine spinning faster...starting a lot better..but rpms dipping to the point it cuts out once warm.
on all the websites for the rx8 the minimum v
compression for the rotors seams to be 75 psi.
did a test today. ..
front .cold...52.52.52
rear cold ....60.60.60.
front trailing hot.51.51.51.
front leading hot.51.51.51
rear trailing hot 58.58.58.
rear leading hot 58.58.58.
i think its clear that the engine isn't completely gone..but its not much left...apex seals not destroyed.
does anyone think a decarbon would bring back compression or just ruin the oxygen sensors


new rx8 problems

Do I need a new catalytic coverter

A couple weeks ago, my car had a bad flooded engine. When I finally got the engine to fire I heard a loud pop and I saw a chuck of the catacomb from my catalytic converter fly out of my exhaust. I notice that I'm getting a strong gas smell and a little bit of white smoke from my exhaust. Do I need a new catalytic converter or is this sign of engine trouble?


Do I need a new catalytic coverter

DRL Module needed!

mardi 25 octobre 2016

I am looking for one Canadian DRL Module but I can't seem to find one online. You anyone have any idea on where I could obtain it (or have one for sale) would be awesome. I am in Vancouver, BC.

Please let me know and thanks a lot!


DRL Module needed!

Free US shipping till 10/31

I have Free Priority shipping and discounted International shipping options for my #RCTV5 Tester package.
International can be shipped as cheap as $20 if you can wait a couple of extra days.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


Free US shipping till 10/31

Tie rod end taper?

Does anyone know what degree taper the OEM tie rod ends are? I'm building a set of rod ends and the taper has been a hard piece of information to find. I just want to make sure the rod ends i have selected are going to fit the spindle. Thanks!


Tie rod end taper?

Fuel Pump Confusion

OK, I'm sorry to do this again but this is the last chance before I drive this piece of junk into the sea.

I have spent hours researching fuel pump replacement for my 2006 RX8 PX and I can't come up with a straight answer as to what fuel pump I should get.

I live in the UK, would like my fuel pump to work, have finally found someone that doesn't think I'm an idiot for having the RX8 in the first place and will replace it for me (one day I might have time to be a car 'tinkerer' but if this car takes up more of my time and still doesn't run properly then I'd rather have a donkey)

Can someone please just give me a link to a fuel pump that will fit in and can be fit by a garage and isn't going to fail a week later? I don't mind paying if it gives me better performance but I need to order it, have it arrive within a week and be capable of being fit by a garage.

Thanks in advance

...p.s. Sorry for being ranty but I have spent thousands on this car and many hours maintaining it and it still spends most of it's time broken.


Fuel Pump Confusion

Coolant seal blown? (photo)

I swapped my front and rear coils to see if that's why I was getting a misfire on the rear rotor, and also cleaned out the spark plug holes because they were so full of grime that the spark plugs wouldn't screw in all the way. I also cleaned my K&N air filter.

After doing that, I went to turn on the engine, but it wouldn't start. It really wanted to start, and revved to around 750 RPM, then it stalled right away. I tried several times, but the longest it would run was maybe 2 or 3 seconds. So I checked all the connections, and one of the spark plug wires seemed like it wasn't plugged in all the way. After fixing that, I went to start the engine, and it still really wanted to start, but it wouldn't turn over on its own without the starter.

So, figuring I had flooded the engine trying to start with a loose spark plug wire, I did the de-flood procedure where you crank for 10 seconds (fully depressing the accelerator pedal), wait 60, crank for 10, wait 60, etc. Did that 10 times. Still no start. Then I disconnected the ESS, pulled the spark plugs, put rags outside the spark plug holes, and cranked several times (again, fully depressing the accelerator to electronically prevent fuel injection). I put the spark plugs back in and re-connected the ESS, but it still refused to start. So I did one more de-flood procedure, but this time I did 5-second starter bursts with 5 seconds between for a full minute, then waited 3 minutes, then cranked it. Finally it started! (also, I did all of the above with the air pump disconnected to prevent cat damage)

It ran smoother than it's ever run since I bought it a few weeks ago. I used to have a rattlesnake "tss tss tss" noise, but that was gone, and the idle was much smoother. There was a ton of white smoke, but it didn't smell like coolant, so I figured that was from the engine having been flooded.

I was letting it warm up, and then after about 5 minutes, it just cut off. I couldn't get it to start again. This was about midnight last night, so I quit for the night and tried again this morning. Did several de-flooding procedures. It sounds like it really wants to start, but it just won't turn over on its own for more than about 1 second.

Then I went to look at the rags from yesterday when I had cranked the engine without the spark plugs in. Aaaaand the rags are kind of a tan/pink. My coolant is red (Peak Final Charge Global, because it doesn't have 2-EHA). I poured a little coolant straight from the bottle onto the rags to compare. Here's what it looks like:

Click the image to open in full size.

I'm thinking that's coolant, which means I've got a blown coolant seal. Additionally, after all this cranking of the engine, I checked the coolant reservoir, and it's pretty much empty. It was full when I started.

So my question is this: is there any chance this could be anything but coolant? Would fuel be a tan color coming out of the engine? I had never blown fuel out the spark plugs onto a rag before yesterday, so I don't have a frame of reference.

My only glimmer of hope (?) is that this was also my first time cleaning a K&N air filter, and, surprise surprise, the oil you spray on that is red as well. After the first attempt to start the engine, I pulled the air box to double check the coil connections. When I did, I saw that there was a bunch of red fluid under the air box. At first I thought it was coolant, but upon further inspection, I determined it was water mixed with the oil from the K&N cleaning kit. When you clean the filter, at one point you flush it out with water and then you're supposed to let it dry naturally before applying the oil. I didn't know how long to let it dry, so I let it sit most of the day and then overnight. Then I applied the red oil, let that wick, touched up the oil, then put it into the air box. After discovering the red oil under the airbox, I realized that it was coming from the filter. And sure enough, there was a bunch of water that had collected on one side of the filter and never dried, that I hadn't noticed before.

So, and I know this is a long shot, but is there any chance that the oil/water from the air filter made it to the engine and is preventing it from starting? And as for the dropping coolant level, maybe an air pocket somewhere in the cooling system?

It just seems odd that I went to swap the coils and clean the air filter, and then the coolant seal decided to break down at the same time.


Coolant seal blown? (photo)

MD RX-8 owner

Hi, as of Friday October 21, 2016 I am the owner of a 2004 RX-8. I would like to meet any owners in the Maryland, Northern VA area.
I am also looking to buy some winter wheels and tires, "Winter is coming".


MD RX-8 owner

Credit Card FOB Question

lundi 24 octobre 2016

Could someone with a 2008 credit card style FOB please tell me what the FCC ID # is. It is located on the back of the FOB (usually very tiny). And does anyone know where to find them cheaper than the dealer?


Credit Card FOB Question

{WTB} Alternator, engine mount, stock air cleaner

Hey guys im looking for an alternator. An engine mount and oem air cleaner box.
Preferably closer to london but ill make the drive if i have too.
Let me know what you have and prices.
Thanks


{WTB} Alternator, engine mount, stock air cleaner

Prospective buyer

Hi I'm looking to buy a 2009 MT Rx-8 from a local buyer. He performed a compression test earlier in the year and gave me these numbers
Front: 700kPa, 710kPa, 710 kPa at 284rpm
Rear: 690kPa, 700kPa, 710kPa at 286rpm
The care currently has ~40,000miles. From the charts I have seen, these number are pretty borderline. The owner said it passed according to the Mazda dealer. Does this mean the engine could fail soon or do I need? He says he has been following maintenance schedule 2. He adds about 1/2 quart of oil every 500 miles. Are there more specific questions I should be asking?

Thanks!


Prospective buyer

Odd Misfire? Help would be appreciated!

Issue: Car is stalling after warms up, has bad misfire it feels like but no CEL code.

So far I had the following parts replaced:
1. Secondary Shutter Valve + Bolts
2. Radiator
3. Spark Plugs
4. Battery + Alternator
5. Clutch Kit
6. Coils

Cleaned or looked at:
1. Throttle Body : Cleaned
2. Cat : Looked at, I came to a stop at the end of a drive and sounded like small shards of metal rattling in a tin can. I had my mechanic look at it and he said the Cat is fine.

I brought it to my mechanic who knows and owned a rotary (Rx8), I trust him as he won't call me back until he is 100% sure of the issue. He said that my fuel injectors have gone bad and it is best to have them all replaced.

Autozone wants $150 just for 1 injector, my question is, is there anywhere I can find reliable injectors for a much more affordable price? My mechanic is also charging $300 for the labor, which compared to Mazda doesn't seem all that bad.

The car will not make that tin rattling sound from under my feet until after the car has been running for a while and starts to run hot, it will also run fine until it runs hot, then it will continue to try and stall out. It also has a very bad gas smell from it when just turning it on or driving. Windows up or down its horrible. He said the compression is good, and my injectors will cause these issues but I would like a second opinion along with a source of where I could get these injectors cheaper and if there is a DIY page somewhere on this topic.

Thanks!


Odd Misfire? Help would be appreciated!

How to identify which stock springs are front or rear?

I'm putting my S2 car back to stock so I can trade it in on a car I can use to Uber. Please tell me the short, wide spring goes in front and the long skinny spring goes in back so I don't have to redo 50% of the work.:bowdown:


How to identify which stock springs are front or rear?

{ FS } Midpipe, air pump, intake, others

Stock midpipe-catalyst intact $100

Stock Intake Box $90

Air Pump $45

Trunk organizer $45

Sideskirts and mud guards-brilliant silver $100

Ipod/aux input integration kit for stock stereo-$55

All prices are OBO and do not include shipping. I suspect the midpipe will cost a small fortune to ship as it wears a ton. I'm shipping out with the military in a couple months and don't want to haul this stuff with me so please, make offers. Best way to get in touch with me is via text. 207-577-5680. Thanks!


{ FS } Midpipe, air pump, intake, others

{ FS } Rew Rx8 Partout - Panspeed flares - Axial flow ss - Bride seats - Gtspec brace etc

I have started to part out my Rew Rx8, alot of the parts are rare / discontinued. If your interested in any of the parts just let me know.

Also will have my full REW swap setup listed for sale soon.
All the Authentic Mazdaspeed parts / INGS+1 spoiler may go up for sale soon as well.

List so far,

-Metra Kit $100
-Greddy oil pan $275
-Greddy Radiator plate $95
-Cusco Radiator plate $95
-Greddy w/p pulley $95
-Agency Power main pulley $100
-SRM alternator pulley $75
-Whiteline sway bars $325
-Mazdaspeed rear view mirror cover $140
-Carbon Fiber gauge cover $160
-Mazdaspeed pillar covers $75
-Pan Speed wide body rear fender flares (NEW) $600
-Auto Exe tie rods (NEW) $185
-GTSpec front strut bar $425
-Mazdaspeed rear strut bar $150
-Pettit Racing Supercharger kit $4950
-Bride Cuga red seats with Bride brackets $1250
-HKS Camp 2 $495
-Autometer Nexus $175
-Custom rear compartment with F/E $95
-Racing beat ashtray gauge pod with Prosport gauges $325
-Lotek triple dash gauge pod with Prosport gauges $325
-Dual defrost vent gauge pod with AEM eugo / boost gauges $275
-EFI Dude $100
-Axial Flow short shifter $245
-Lamin-x Headlight / Foglight protection film kit $40

Will be adding more until all my extra parts are listed.
Located in Louisville KY


Click the image to open in full size.


{ FS } Rew Rx8 Partout - Panspeed flares - Axial flow ss - Bride seats - Gtspec brace etc

Help Needed: Odd Symptoms

Hi All :-)

I have a 2005 RX-8 Manual since a year.. Awesome car!

I live in Mauritius and RX-8 expertise is hard to find! (It is not an 'officially' imported car). I doubt anyone on this small island has the rotary compression tester, is it worth using a standard one?

Issue:

When starting the car from cold it either:
1) Starts on first turn all happy
2) Extremely hard to start (5-10s cranking) including one or more backfire gunshots - Scares neighbors! When this happens the revs climb slowly to 2.3k (2 seconds or so) when the car finally fires
3) I can easily bump start the car first turn @5Km/H on 2nd Gear

Car starts fine when hot :-)

It has a very slight rough idle when hot (Can drop to 780rpm and shake slightly when cold and moist outside)

I have followed the 'Symptoms' thread and 'My Car Wont Start' thread in attempts to find the answer.

Things I have got done so far:

1) New Battery - Existing one was on point of collapse anyways.
2) New Sparks - No Change
3) New K&N Filter - Hard to get the stock filter, so prefer a reusable one
4) New Thermostat - Preventive measure when I bought the car last year
5) Cleaned MAF

Things on the way:

1) New Coils - Want to finish the ignition triad - Shipping to MRU takes time!
2) Upgraded Starter 13 teeth/2kw - I still have the 1.3kw one

Is there something else that can cause such a 'can start fine / hard start' random issue just when cold?

:bowdown:


Help Needed: Odd Symptoms

car not starting

dimanche 23 octobre 2016

hi every1 i am new here i have just got a 2006 rx8 and it was driving fine until yesterday morning it just would not turn over then my engine management light came on any idea what is wrong or where is the best place to take it i am in blackpool uk thanks for any help you can give


car not starting

Misfiring after fuel cut rev limiter

Hi! I´m beginning here!
My 8 AT 2007 44K (no cat) misfired and stopped after reached the rev limiter. The car was towed to my garage. I changed sparks plugs, coins and wires.
The 08 still misfiring with detonation. The obd presents P2195 and P0171.
Another information: on the trip occurred 2 months ago, the fuel pump had heating problems after two hours traveling and began to fail and then stop. I expected to cool or supplied gas and returned to normal. After that I didn´t run longer journeys (more than 30 mi).
I think with the action of the fuel cutting system, the defect of the pump may have worsened.
I wait comments. :icon5:


Misfiring after fuel cut rev limiter

First participation

Hi Folks!!

This is my first time here. I have 2 Rx8: G1 At 2007 43k mi and G2 At 2009 24k mi.

Also, i have 2 vettes (C4 and C5) and a MX3.

I´ve reading this forum since 2011 and I love it.

:worship:


First participation

Credit card FOB

Could someone with a 2008 credit card style FOB please tell me what the FCC ID # is. It is located on the back of the FOB (usually very tiny).


Credit card FOB

Possible Wiring Issue

Hello all,
Just wanted help from other owners to help determine if i might have a wiring issue. I just got an 05 Rx8 and for some reason, theres two single wires cut underneath the steering wheel, im pretty sure one is the traction control and one is the horn, neither of which work. Obv i didnt notice that when buying the car. But im more concerned on the fact that, the right side speaker doesnt work, the HIDS flicker sometimes, the driver unlock button doesnt work, and the sony headunit randomly restarts sometimes while im playing music. Also the AC/Heater control doesnt work, air doesnt get colder or warmer. All these issues are pointing me towards a wiring issue which financially is very scary.
Please let me know your thoughts, thanks


Possible Wiring Issue

Rental Mazda Compression Tester

While reading through the new owner section I recall someone saying some people rent theirs out. Anybody in Las Vegas or Southern California have one for rent ? If not there anywhere else ?

Thanks


Rental Mazda Compression Tester

{FS/WTT} F/s rep ms front bumper

I have a rep ms front bumper im looking to sell $150 or trade for side skirts..

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: 2.jpg Views: N/A Size: 335.7 KB ID: 214866  


{FS/WTT} F/s rep ms front bumper

Series 1 and 2 differences

Hey guys hopefully this hasn't been covered, I haven't really been able to find it anywhere. I know most of the differences between series 1 and 2 but I was just hoping for a few specifics.


I have a 40th anny and I love it, but I think the R3s just look way better, and ive considered getting the bumpers, side skirts, and rims from an R3. But it seems like getting those and having them painted to match would cost just about as much as just buying an R3.


However, me being 21 (and for several other reasons) I don't need two RX8s. So I would like to look at trading mine in for an R3. (I have found the one I want and its a few hours from me)


So heres the question. I just got some stuff for my current 8 and I want to know what will fit the R3 if I get it. Im pretty sure everything will but I want to make sure.


I have a Borla catback, a bhr midpipe, new ss brake lines, and bhr ignition coils. Again im pretty sure they are all compatable, not certain about the exhaust however. Thanks guys!


Series 1 and 2 differences

Another 8 with low RPM power loss and occasional rough idle

Hey all, I know this topic has been covered countless times, & so of course I know the typical culprits of such problems. First thing I did was upgrade to bhr ignition system. Now immediately after that, the car was running perfect again. But about a week later the problems were coming backing, this time shuddering the car trying to accelerate. I found that one of the air intake hoses had gotten moved out of place during the ignition install and a belt was steadily eating through it. Luckily there was an outer rubber tubing over the inner tubing that actually contained the airflow, so it didn't eat through the tubing enough to leak. Again it ran better once I put the tubing out of the belt's way.

Give it another couple weeks... same problems again but milder. One of the intake tubing clamps was not on the plastic nipple as it should've been but was sort of squeezing the tube and reducing airflow... this helped only a little.

Now I don't have shuddering problems anymore except at 70mph+ and that's probably due to needing an alignment. But I do have power loss at low to mid RPMs. I'm hoping my hardest that it's not the C word with my engine... but I will mention my MPG has not significantly dropped, not including before the new bhr ignition and during the stray intake tube. I hover around 17-18.5 with mostly highway and curvy country Rd miles (the roads our cars were built for).

I still have the stock cat on but just got a used bhr midpipe in case it is the cat... but before I do that, I have to wonder if it'd be wisest to take it by mazda first for a compression test. Or, with no loss in mpg, is that a serious possibility anyway? Oh and of course I never baby it, I redline at LEAST once a drive and usually more than that.

TL;DR
I'll just list what I've done so far to remedy the problem for a tl;Dr and have those more knowledgeable than I suggest my next move.

06 rx8 with 93k on it (getting up there)
New bhr ignition (helped briefly)
Replaced air filter (not a hi flow)
Cleaned MAF (also helped briefly)
Also cleaned throttle body (but didn't really know what I was doing)
Rearranged air intake tubes away from belt

Next moves being considered:
removing cat
Compression test

I don't want to blow $100 I don't have on a comp test if I don't have to, but I also don't wanna pull the cat only to find i need to put it back on to bring it to the stealership, or dump more money on nicer performance parts I don't need if I'm gna have to pay for an engine rebuild.

There also could be a leak in my air intake, possibly. Is there any way to check this? I read about spraying lighter fluid around the intake to see if any of it ignites, indicating and locating the leak. But that sounds like a recipe for disaster.

Thanks for all who help!


Another 8 with low RPM power loss and occasional rough idle

Engine Knock (with video)

Picked up an 05 GT last weekend with a Mazda reman engine with an alleged 24k miles on the reman engine. I replaced a bunch of parts on it, oil and filter, air filter, crank position sensor, MAF, coils, plugs, air pump, and injector driver pack. When I drained the oil, I found that there was over 6 quarts of oil in the pan *shakes head*. Started it up last night and noticed as the engine warmed up, I could hear knocking from what sounded like the rear passenger area of the engine. Sounded like lifter noise at first and then rod knock as the engine warmed up. We all know that's not possible. I was thinking rotor bearing or stationary gear bearing failure. No loss in oil pressure according to the gauge or dummy light. Compression checked out at fair as 120psi on the front rotor and 90psi on the rear rotor. Looking for some insight on the issue. Here is an enclosed video of the issue:

see post 3 for video. Finally got it to work


Engine Knock (with video)

Engine Coolant Level Warning Light

Hi everyone !

My engine coolant level warning light shows up while driving the RX8 and goes away after sometime. It comes back again. I have checked the level of water in the tank and it is nearly full or midway through low and full level. What could be the cause and what should I do ? Would appreciate your valuable comments. Thank you !


Engine Coolant Level Warning Light

need some experience /help

hi all ..been away for a long time. .nearly ten years. ..my last rx8 got stolen and wrecked. ..never managed to make it back to rotary...
until today
i bought an rx8 with 65.000 miles v.cheap
little bit rough.
but like a diamond she will shine up.
previous owner complaining of hot starts.
so here's symptoms. ..im familiar with rotarys..see if you guys collective knowledge can come up with some answers.
first of all the battery is bad...on a jump from a diesel she starts after 4 seconds cranking..
very slow crank speed..
once she is running goes like a bat out of hell...stopped and started 8 times while connected to a running diesel car battery. .will not start own battery ..
no cel lights. ..no low coolant.
looks like oil has been changed a lot..running on semi synthetic. ..
doesn't appear to have spark plugs changed in 40.000 miles.
no oil /steam coming from exhaust whatsoever..
once running..very fast got up to 90mph...
will not be my daily driver.
i don't mind rebuilding the engine but don't want to if possible. ..
will pressure test it soon on a new battery.
so will a:get new battery. .plugs..leads coils..decarbon engine. ..
probably solve all starting issues...
or rebuild the engine while the going is good. ..no damage to rotors and rotor housing from heat or apex seal breakup...
or is there a case of if its not broken don't fix it.
good to hear the high pitched wine and power of an rx8 rotary again.


need some experience /help

{ FS } AEM CAI with MAF, Motor Mounts, ESS, Chassis Brace, Grounding Kit

samedi 22 octobre 2016

For Sale,

Used AEM Cold Air Intake blue. Comes with brand new AEM filter, and brand new rain/dust guard. Also comes with an MAF! ---- 200 + shipping.

OEM Motor Mounts. Passenger side is brand new. Drivers side has mileage but is good. Both come with brand new OEM top bolts. ---- 150 + shipping.

Front Chassis Brace. Sits right below tranny and ppf. ---- 10 + shipping.

ESS. Works. ---- 10 + shipping.

Grounding Kit. Cheap eBay, but complete and works! ---- 10 + shipping.

Will cute shipping when I know where I'm shipping to. Will quote accurate rates from USPS and send with tracking once payment confirmed.

PM me for any questions!

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{ FS } AEM CAI with MAF, Motor Mounts, ESS, Chassis Brace, Grounding Kit

Raising the seat mount.

Has anyone done this? Even with the seat adjusted all the way up, at 5'9" it's a bit too low for me. I can't prop my elbow on the window sill, and my eyes are so low they're nearly level with the dash. To drivers behind me, I probably look like a shrunken ninety year old, with my little bald head just barely in view through the rear window.

Anyway, I took the seat out to try to figure out a way of getting it about 2 inches higher. The only really practical way I see is to build a simple mount out of flat stock that uses the original mounting holes. Probably easy for a skilled person. Unfortunately, I'm not that skilled.

I can drill holes, and do simple bends, but I can't weld, though I might be able to bolt it together. One serious concern is that it is strong enough to be accident resistant, since the seat belt is bolted to the seat, if the seat moves in an accident the belt won't do much good.

Anyone have any ideas, suggestions, experience? Thanks.

The mount I'm thinking of making would look something like this one from Good-win for a Miata, but not so pretty:


Click the image to open in full size.


Raising the seat mount.

Is it ok to mix and match ignition coils?

I pulled my ignition coils because I plan to swap the front and rear ones to troubleshoot a misfire. When I pulled them out, I tested their resistance, as shown in the Whitney Automotive video on YouTube. All 4 of my coils show a higher resistance than in the video. But it seems like testing for resistance wouldn't be the most accurate way to see if they're bad, unless you're getting practically no resistance when you should be getting some, or vice versa.

Anyway, the resistance on one of my rear coils is quite a bit lower than the other three. So I went to look at the receipts for the coils, because the previous owner said he had put in new coils and that they had a lifetime warranty. Now that I'm looking at the receipts more closely, I see that one coil was bought from one store, and it's a $60 coil. 2 were bought from another store, and they're both $30 coils. And one there's no receipt for a 4th coil, so I have to assume it's old.

With coils being sourced from potentially 3 different places, could that cause me any problems? I think I'm going to just replace all 4 to be safe. Just curious if having different resistance on the different coils (or other subtle differences) because they're from separate manufacturers would cause any problems.


Is it ok to mix and match ignition coils?

Power steering

:cussing:power steering went out in my car, mechanic says it is the rack & pinion but i personally do not have a problem with having to turn the wheel a lil harder. Problem is though if my rack & pinion is messed up is it okay to drive without something else going wrong?


Power steering

{WTB} 09+ rear shocks asap

looking for a set of oem rear shocks for my 2009 Sport, preferably with low mileage. Blew my passenger side rear shock in an accident.

pm me or email


{WTB} 09+ rear shocks asap

Introduction and seeking advice

Hey guys , I've been lurking this forum for a while now and I finally pulled the trigger yesterday. But first before you say anything, yes , I have read over and over all the new owners stickies so I know what I am getting into :yesnod:

So the car is a 2004 6 speeds with 89k miles , the owner did provide an extensive list of service records but it does have some problem. Oh yeah, i was not able to get a compression test due to the clutch being out but I got the car for a steal and also if the engine goes out , I can always get it rebuilt since that was my first plan anyway ( I'm definitely going to get one done after I fix the car though )

1) So back at the clutch, the problem with is it's stuck to the floor and I have to manually pull it back up with my hand, I've read up about the pedal bracket issue but I don't think it's the case because my pedal doesn't move side to side so it must be related to the hydraulic fluid system which I'm planning to replace the slave and master cylinder, what do you guys think?

2) the other problem is the check engine light is on : code P2259

Disclaimer: I have only started working on car for couple of years, there might be something I don't get right away so be patient with me and I'm willing to learn ;)


Introduction and seeking advice

Carproof

For Sale
CARPROOF with lien search that expiring on October 29, 2016.
$25 Half Price
If interested PM me.


Carproof

New Owner looking for some info

Hi all,

I was given a very nice, bone stock 08 RX-8 GT recently and would like to get a bit more info. I currently still own an Acura Integra and learned about specialty tuning companies like Mugen, Spoon, ect which are all Honda based. In the world of the RX-8, are there companies like that too or is there just Mazdaspeed?

Sorry if this question was asked before, totally new here.


New Owner looking for some info

Turbo Bridgeport discussion

Been trying to work out why my Turbo Renesis Bridgeport is so ineffective ........yet we see such huge gains on PP engines .
My theory :

On the Renesis the only VE gain that can be had seems to be in replacing the carried over exhaust gases with intake air . Looking at the chamber at that point in it's cycle, it looks like somewhere around 5% of the total swept area . So a maximum gain of that magnitude is possible. Looking at my results so far , i may be getting close to these gains , but nowhere near what a PP engine achieves.

So I started to think about why such big gains are possible on PP engines .
I haven't seen any discussion on this so I don't know what explanations have come forward from the 7 guys.
The Peripheral port stays open way longer than the renesis side port and therefore allows much more air to flow through it ...it keeps flowing after the chamber has compressed the exhaust gas .
I'm actually thinking the gains are being made ..............outside of the engine . What if the intake air goes straight through the engine and into the exhaust . The fuel then ignites creating combustion just before the turbo . This creates more heat and pressure outside of the engine ..similar to antilag!Result is turbo is spooled up in part by this .... meaning the engine doesn't have to do it . Result = more power .

Just a theory ... anyone else got any ideas on this ?
Cough ...Teamrx8 ?


Turbo Bridgeport discussion

Tail Light Question

vendredi 21 octobre 2016

Hey all,

I have a 2005 RX-8. I got pulled over recently for my tail lights being out. I checked and only the two little red lights on the sides are on. The big red circles still light up though when I press my brakes. So I'm confused if:

1) The tail lights are supposed to be that way, just the little lights on the side
2) Something is wrong with the bulbs, wiring, etc.

Can anyone confirm for sure? If #2, any idea what might be wrong?

Thanks in advance!


Tail Light Question

{ FS } Exotic Speed Midpipe

Hey guys I have a brand new in box Exotic Speed racing midpipe for sale. It has all the hardware and the 02 bung. I want a BHR after all the reading ive done. So im looking for $350+shipping and pp fees.


Will entertain serious offers.


Would love to trade for a BHR midpipe.


Thanks guys

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{ FS } Exotic Speed Midpipe
 

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