hi so I just became the proud owner of a 2005 rx8 6 speed and im super new to the whole rotary game is there anything i should know about owning one thanks.
Rx8 dies on Drive or Reverse
First if all here's the background of my car http://ift.tt/1tKj7xN
2004, Automatic, New JDM 50k engine, 4 port, 127k transmission, new radiator, (anything else just ask)
I want to thank everyone who helped me, the car now runs fairly well. One problem i have now is getting it started, I hear 3 beeps and it usually takes about 8 seconds cranking for it to start and no white smoke after starting. That's not my main issue, however, as I think that can be fixed with some fresh spark plugs. The starter RPMs are about 260/min per OBD scanner.
My main issue is that once the car turns on, it'll iddle just fine. Although the RPMs drop slightly and the car vibrates but the engine never let's itself shut off. Then when I try to switch to Drive or Reverse the car will just shut off, maybe jerk a little. I need help figuring this out, I have reset everything possibly resetable as well as cleaned and checks maf, ess sensor, filter, oil, tranny fluid, tranny connections, wires, coils, plugs, (need new). Check engine light is on, but no codes come up(possibly from disconnecting battery or old codes from old engine)
One last thing, once the engine shuts off after being warm it won't turn back on until about 10-15 minutes later. And sometimes when I rev it up to about 4-5K after a while it'll just die out all of a sudden.
Some things I thinks may be the issue
Fuel pump (could be loss of fuel so engine dies)
Cat (could be engine can't breathe and dies)
Torque converter (we towed it for about 3 hours so it might've damaged it)
What do you guys think? Any help would really be appreciated!
2004, Automatic, New JDM 50k engine, 4 port, 127k transmission, new radiator, (anything else just ask)
I want to thank everyone who helped me, the car now runs fairly well. One problem i have now is getting it started, I hear 3 beeps and it usually takes about 8 seconds cranking for it to start and no white smoke after starting. That's not my main issue, however, as I think that can be fixed with some fresh spark plugs. The starter RPMs are about 260/min per OBD scanner.
My main issue is that once the car turns on, it'll iddle just fine. Although the RPMs drop slightly and the car vibrates but the engine never let's itself shut off. Then when I try to switch to Drive or Reverse the car will just shut off, maybe jerk a little. I need help figuring this out, I have reset everything possibly resetable as well as cleaned and checks maf, ess sensor, filter, oil, tranny fluid, tranny connections, wires, coils, plugs, (need new). Check engine light is on, but no codes come up(possibly from disconnecting battery or old codes from old engine)
One last thing, once the engine shuts off after being warm it won't turn back on until about 10-15 minutes later. And sometimes when I rev it up to about 4-5K after a while it'll just die out all of a sudden.
Some things I thinks may be the issue
Fuel pump (could be loss of fuel so engine dies)
Cat (could be engine can't breathe and dies)
Torque converter (we towed it for about 3 hours so it might've damaged it)
What do you guys think? Any help would really be appreciated!
{WTB} OEM Climate/ AC Control Unit
Hey guys, my temperature control recently stop working and I'm only getting AC, no Heat. Winter is coming up so I need to fix this asap. I have tried to re-solder the connections. but still no luck. If anyone has a WORKING climate control unit I'll buy it off you! Thanks
Bought a 2004 rx8 that won't start. thinking about putting a ls2 in it.
Anyone have any thoughts on the build?
TurboXS Today ONLY 10/31/2014 FLASH SALE
TurboXS RX8-Catback Exhaust: $550 SHIPPED
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TurboXS RX8-Racepipe: $150 SHIPPED
oil catch can and sohn adapter canister
I'm planning on making both these mods, and trying to find a slick packaging technique to it. I have two cylindrical 1L canisters (ebay special) to use, and I would like them to be mounted together, or at least close. Has anyone done both of these mods like this, with pictures to show examples of?
I would like to still be able to put the plastic engine cover on, and obviously still need to see the oil level of both cans.
I would like to still be able to put the plastic engine cover on, and obviously still need to see the oil level of both cans.
Steam/smoke coming from oil cooler??
Hi all...new to the forum and first time rx8 owner. I've got an 04 automatic which I flooded about 8 months back. Since then I've had an air intake issue and now I've noticed smoke/steam coming from the area of the oil cooler. Has anyone else had an issue like this? Just moved to Tacoma and could use some suggestions on a mechanic who's familiar with rotary motors.
FS: 1uzfe complete engine
jeudi 30 octobre 2014
I have a 1992 1uzfe 1uz complete engine just under 100,xxx miles come with wiring harness, ecu and all sensor. I was going to use it for my project but now its on hold. I am Located in socal. $700 (951)836-5705
{WTB} Apr gtc-200 wing
Let me know, im looking for the 2.5 inch risers as well. Located in jackson, nj 08527, pm me pics and price~!
Transmission itself seems to be moving up and down...
Just bought a 2004 manual GT and the guy said something about the trans brace or whatever "might" need new bushings. Yeah...it needs something alright, the shifter raises and drops a good 1.5 inches especially in 1st gear! I have yet to get under the car to look at what's going on but could it be as simple as bushings or do I likely have a bigger problem? I'm surprised that input/output shafts haven't snapped with how much this thing moves.
Just bought my 8 with 75,000mi
I just got my 2008 Mazda Rx8 and it currently has about 75,000 miles on it. I did my research before buying and I know the car often has issues around this point in its lifetime. I just wanted to know what I should look out for in the near future!
{WTB} Rotor housing
After a rotor housing must be flake free , crack free, no edge wear and a smooth surface basically A1 condition.
Must be willing to ship to the UK
Must be willing to ship to the UK
New member, long-time owner and visitor
Hello all,
I've been the (usually) happy owner of a 2004 RX-8 for over 10 years now, and a frequent visitor to the RX-8 Club forums since even before I purchased it. I have found these forums to be a wonderful resource for dealing with the idiosyncrasies of my RX-8, and keeping it running in top shape. As I'm usually much more of a listener than a talker, I hadn't ventured to post until now.
I wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to these forums over the years, and made them what they are now. I'm going to try to add my own knowledge and experience to the mix. Cheers :beer05:
I've been the (usually) happy owner of a 2004 RX-8 for over 10 years now, and a frequent visitor to the RX-8 Club forums since even before I purchased it. I have found these forums to be a wonderful resource for dealing with the idiosyncrasies of my RX-8, and keeping it running in top shape. As I'm usually much more of a listener than a talker, I hadn't ventured to post until now.
I wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to these forums over the years, and made them what they are now. I'm going to try to add my own knowledge and experience to the mix. Cheers :beer05:
buying an rx8 soon
hi everyone i am new to this forum but i know my fair share about this wonderful wankle rotary machine. I am 18 years old at the moment and am planning to buy and rx8 with in the next year and a half. I have done an extreme amount of research on this car and it brings me to either do two thing. i will have ten grand to spend by that time and its either i buy an 06 plus with high kms and do the usual replace sparks, coils, plugs,clutch, starter etc which i think is a big risk for me because i cannot afford an engine rebuild as i am university student and i can only pay for my gas, insurance and oil. MY second option would be to buy a very cheap rx8 with prob a blown motor and rebuild it with the ten grand i have saved up and make it like a brand new rx8. I am going crazy on what to do everyday i come home from school and research about this car because i love rotarys but everything out there is misleading and different.
i know i am kinda crazy but but if someone could just lead me in the right direction so i can have my mind set on what im doing that would be great.
thanks.
i know i am kinda crazy but but if someone could just lead me in the right direction so i can have my mind set on what im doing that would be great.
thanks.
{WTB} Heater/AC fan speed knob
mercredi 29 octobre 2014
I'm looking to buy a heater/ac fan speed ****, mine broke once and I fixed it temporarily, now it broke again and I lost some of the pieces. Post here or PM me if you have one I could buy.
{ FS } Racing Beat intake duct
Racing beat intake duct, good condition.
Usable with the OEM intake box.
$100, willing to ship
Usable with the OEM intake box.
$100, willing to ship
upgrading the sterio?
So I want to put a nice touch screen double din in my 2004 but I wanted to know if the controls on the steering wheel would still work. Also any suggestions on what touch screen double din I should get? Money isnt really an issue.
Stalling..New Reman Help please
Okay, wow. Literally just got a fresh Reman engine. I pretty much drive it off the lot(they dropped it off to me at my work), i start the car.. Let it warm up, and drive off. Literally 1st stop sign I stall out. Car starts instantly(when hot ), and when I try to switch it in drive, it stalls again, or if I just sit there. The RPMs get jumpy and bounce a couple hundred and stalls again. I do get a flashing CEL and my battery symbol is also on when key is in "ON" position. Help please... New plugs/wires/coils 500 miles ago.
MazdaPi's 2009 Build Thread
Specs on the car before hand.
MazdaPi's Car~~~
Model : GT
Year: 2009
Mileage : 238000 kms or 150000 miles approx.
Cosmetic Condition : Good, better than you'd think for a car with this many miles.
Mechanical Condition : Needs improvement...
Transmission: 6 Speed Manual
Color: Titanium Gray
Prior Mods: Eibach Lowering Springs, HID fog lights, and DIY lower the seat mod, diy weld clutch bracket, kiwi II OBD plug in thingy + REV, headunit with nav, backup camera, upgraded interior lights and trunk lights, BHR ignition kit/wires - coils and LS2 Coils, Upgraded Starter, Redtop Battery
MazdaPi~~~
Name: Darien Schettler
Age : 23
Education : Completing a second degree in Mechanical Engineering after completing an honours in a dual major in Biology and Mathematics
Experience : Tinkered a lot on a Mazda 3 (most involved work was a clutch swap), but essentially none
Plans for the Car~~~
Short Term :
1. New clutch kit will be going in November 8th in my garage back home, at that time I will also be bringing home an r3 engine (50000 kms) as my current engine is beginning to get signs of low compression (I will post up the compression results at a later date).
2. New master and slave cylinders will be going in (as well as all clutch accessory parts including tob, pilot, etc.), new ss clutch and brake lines as well will go in on the weekend of the 8th.
3. Possibly replace the transmission or just the trans-axle if it is damaged although it's difficult to tell at this point as the car is not driveable due to a detonated pilot bearing.
4. Possibly doing an engine swap by the end of November, it depends on the weather and how the car drives after the first repairs are completed and all fluids are flushed and replaced.
Long Term :
1. I will be attempting to repair any damage to the old engine (240000km one) and after that is completed I will be figuring out how to turbocharge the series II engine. A lot of learning has to happen between now and this point and I am very aware of that.
2. Customizing Headlights and flushing and sealing taillights properly.
3.. All the cosmetic **** inside and out. (Anodized Teal Accents probably)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
That's the basics, I will take meticulous photos every step of the way if possible, and I will write out the best DIY's as I can as I go. I will be using all of the previous resources available online currently to do all the jobs so I hope that things will go smoothly. If they don't though, at least people will see where I had trouble and hopefully that will aid them in the future. I'm not a mechanic nor am I very mechanically inclined but I have persistence and I learn quickly, I will use all the resources I can and learn as much as I can before doing anything I'm not prepared for. I have extensively read the forums and will continue to educate myself on rotary specific things as well as all other mechanical and FI related things. I have access to machining shops, welding shops, lifts, tools, etc as my school is pretty cool... hoping to do most of it in my garage though.
~~~
I will post some pics shortly of the base car before hand. I have no idea how to do a good build thread so if you have any recommendations or criticism PLEASE PLEASE PM me and do not trash the thread with negativity on the thread. I will also be reading other build threads for inspiration and knowledge. I will welcome all everyone has to offer as long as it is constructive. If you just want to watch or offer positive comments feel free to comment on the thread. :beer05: :beer05:
Cheers
MazdaPi's Car~~~
Model : GT
Year: 2009
Mileage : 238000 kms or 150000 miles approx.
Cosmetic Condition : Good, better than you'd think for a car with this many miles.
Mechanical Condition : Needs improvement...
Transmission: 6 Speed Manual
Color: Titanium Gray
Prior Mods: Eibach Lowering Springs, HID fog lights, and DIY lower the seat mod, diy weld clutch bracket, kiwi II OBD plug in thingy + REV, headunit with nav, backup camera, upgraded interior lights and trunk lights, BHR ignition kit/wires - coils and LS2 Coils, Upgraded Starter, Redtop Battery
MazdaPi~~~
Name: Darien Schettler
Age : 23
Education : Completing a second degree in Mechanical Engineering after completing an honours in a dual major in Biology and Mathematics
Experience : Tinkered a lot on a Mazda 3 (most involved work was a clutch swap), but essentially none
Plans for the Car~~~
Short Term :
1. New clutch kit will be going in November 8th in my garage back home, at that time I will also be bringing home an r3 engine (50000 kms) as my current engine is beginning to get signs of low compression (I will post up the compression results at a later date).
2. New master and slave cylinders will be going in (as well as all clutch accessory parts including tob, pilot, etc.), new ss clutch and brake lines as well will go in on the weekend of the 8th.
3. Possibly replace the transmission or just the trans-axle if it is damaged although it's difficult to tell at this point as the car is not driveable due to a detonated pilot bearing.
4. Possibly doing an engine swap by the end of November, it depends on the weather and how the car drives after the first repairs are completed and all fluids are flushed and replaced.
Long Term :
1. I will be attempting to repair any damage to the old engine (240000km one) and after that is completed I will be figuring out how to turbocharge the series II engine. A lot of learning has to happen between now and this point and I am very aware of that.
2. Customizing Headlights and flushing and sealing taillights properly.
3.. All the cosmetic **** inside and out. (Anodized Teal Accents probably)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
That's the basics, I will take meticulous photos every step of the way if possible, and I will write out the best DIY's as I can as I go. I will be using all of the previous resources available online currently to do all the jobs so I hope that things will go smoothly. If they don't though, at least people will see where I had trouble and hopefully that will aid them in the future. I'm not a mechanic nor am I very mechanically inclined but I have persistence and I learn quickly, I will use all the resources I can and learn as much as I can before doing anything I'm not prepared for. I have extensively read the forums and will continue to educate myself on rotary specific things as well as all other mechanical and FI related things. I have access to machining shops, welding shops, lifts, tools, etc as my school is pretty cool... hoping to do most of it in my garage though.
~~~
I will post some pics shortly of the base car before hand. I have no idea how to do a good build thread so if you have any recommendations or criticism PLEASE PLEASE PM me and do not trash the thread with negativity on the thread. I will also be reading other build threads for inspiration and knowledge. I will welcome all everyone has to offer as long as it is constructive. If you just want to watch or offer positive comments feel free to comment on the thread. :beer05: :beer05:
Cheers
Ultra gauge
I'm posting here as we have a lot of new members with concerns and questions.
I just received my ultra gauge and installed it today. This is not a programmer but a OBD II data display it can show in real time almost any thing you want to know about what the engine is doing when running and driving. It will alert you to codes that are active and pending. It has 5 or 6 programmable display screens. I currently set screen one to display engine coolant temp (more useful that putting a new sensor and cutting up your dash for the pod and far cheeper than RB gauge set up) RPM (as we all know the dash is off on RPM readings) AFR (very important if you have fueling problems or start to have them) fuel level (in tank % gives you a better look at how much fuel you have than the dash gauge which seems to stop on HWY driving just under half a tank) intake temp and last (and this is just for fun) MPG.
Any one that is interested in seeing any live data for any reason I would suggest getting one even if your not interested I still suggest getting one it could help us help you figure out what's wrong with the info you have from it. Thanks green for turning me not to this item best part of it was I only forked over $85 for it you can't even get and install a water temp gauge and pod for that
I don't work for or am advertising for this product I'm only trying to give a option for people on a tight budget to be able to see important data that could help with fixing or even heading off a problem before it starts to cost big$$$ as owners of RX8s we all know it don't take much of a small cheeper problem to become a big costly problem.
I just received my ultra gauge and installed it today. This is not a programmer but a OBD II data display it can show in real time almost any thing you want to know about what the engine is doing when running and driving. It will alert you to codes that are active and pending. It has 5 or 6 programmable display screens. I currently set screen one to display engine coolant temp (more useful that putting a new sensor and cutting up your dash for the pod and far cheeper than RB gauge set up) RPM (as we all know the dash is off on RPM readings) AFR (very important if you have fueling problems or start to have them) fuel level (in tank % gives you a better look at how much fuel you have than the dash gauge which seems to stop on HWY driving just under half a tank) intake temp and last (and this is just for fun) MPG.
Any one that is interested in seeing any live data for any reason I would suggest getting one even if your not interested I still suggest getting one it could help us help you figure out what's wrong with the info you have from it. Thanks green for turning me not to this item best part of it was I only forked over $85 for it you can't even get and install a water temp gauge and pod for that
I don't work for or am advertising for this product I'm only trying to give a option for people on a tight budget to be able to see important data that could help with fixing or even heading off a problem before it starts to cost big$$$ as owners of RX8s we all know it don't take much of a small cheeper problem to become a big costly problem.
Compression test results
Finally was able to get my car in for a compression test, car has 155k kms on it now, engine was replaced at 109k. I just purchased it about a month ago, unfortunately my compression results do not seem good. They did say I am in very desperate need of new plugs and a tune up though, but I just couldn't justify paying how much the dealer wanted. I believe I do still have 5k of warranty left on the engine but the results are as follows:
Rotor # 1
710kpa, 680kpa, 680kp @ 250rpm
750kpa, 720kpa, 720kpa @ 288rpm
Rotor # 2
680kpa, 700kpa, 680kpa @ 250rpm
720kpa, 740kpa, 720kpa @ 285rpm
They said compression is at or above minimum spec and all they recommended was a tune up but I am definitely concerned with those numbers, should I take it back in right before I hit the 160k kms mark? Its a 2006 MT btw
Thanks,
Rotor # 1
710kpa, 680kpa, 680kp @ 250rpm
750kpa, 720kpa, 720kpa @ 288rpm
Rotor # 2
680kpa, 700kpa, 680kpa @ 250rpm
720kpa, 740kpa, 720kpa @ 285rpm
They said compression is at or above minimum spec and all they recommended was a tune up but I am definitely concerned with those numbers, should I take it back in right before I hit the 160k kms mark? Its a 2006 MT btw
Thanks,
My 2004 RX8 wont start.
This is my first rotary car and it's still really new to me. My car wont start and i dont know why. Its been stationary for about 3 weeks.But it has a good battery, replaced the starter 2 days ago with the upgraded one, coils\spark plugs have been replaced within the past 5-6 months, and the car still wont start. Itll crank but wont turn over. Please, i need help.
Engine compression.
Hello, this is my second post as a follow up to my car problems. Just bought my rx8 maybe 2-3 weeks ago. Mazda dealer said its 99% likely I have an engine compression issue and need a new engine but I can't get it diagnosed or anything done until my extended warranty goes through. So I'm hoping this warranty company will cover it or I'm screwed. Felt like I regret buying this car entirely but hey what's done is done. Anyways my question is can engine compression issues lower gas mileage? Cause I just got a 107.3 miles on roughly 12.68 gallon tank. That's like 8.4 mpg.. And that's all city btw.
305 SBC Swap in RX8
Has anyone ever done a swap such as this one? My rx8 renny just died and looking for a cheaper option for power upgrade. Already have the 305 and all engine components, what are the biggest complications with this swap? Im thinking engine cradle and mounting but can anyone give any insight? Looking for a cheap(er) build than ls to get me by.
Thanks for any insight!
Thanks for any insight!
{WTB} oil catch cans
anyone have any? I'm looking for two, preferably two of the same make/model. I ordered a couple of the ebay specials, waited a month to find out they are lost in transit. They said they will ship more, but it will take up to 2 months to send them out.
Used is fine, just need something that I can see the level on it, and drain out of it.
Obviously I'm looking for the ebay special price range!
Used is fine, just need something that I can see the level on it, and drain out of it.
Obviously I'm looking for the ebay special price range!
Charlotte Area Cars and Coffee- Sat Nov 1st! NC Music Factory Uptown '14 T-shirts!
Charlotte Area- Cars and Coffee at the NC Music Factory- Sat Nov 1st!
Charlotte Area Cars and Coffee - Uptown Charlotte
Mattie's Diner / NC Music Factory Uptown Village-Main Lot
1000 NC Music Factory Blvd, Charlotte NC 28206
Saturday Nov 1st, 2014
7:30am until!
***2014 Commemorative Cars and Coffee T-Shirts are on sale! $20 each and all proceeds go to pay for our Sheriff Deputies! ***
Charlotte Area Cars and Coffee - Uptown Charlotte
Mattie's Diner / NC Music Factory Uptown Village-Main Lot
1000 NC Music Factory Blvd, Charlotte NC 28206
Saturday Nov 1st, 2014
7:30am until!
***2014 Commemorative Cars and Coffee T-Shirts are on sale! $20 each and all proceeds go to pay for our Sheriff Deputies! ***
The fall is here and it is a wonderful time to get out and enjoy some great sights and sounds of our rides! Cars and Coffee has enjoyed its greatest stretch the last four months with record turnouts (averaging 550+ vehicles) and everyone has behaved themselves which has been great! We want to continue this streak and we believe a big factor has been the addition of our off duty Sheriff's Deputies that are helping keep all of us safe. As you can imagine this type of security does not come cheap. In the past we have had gracious benefactors in the from of Foreign Cars International, NC Music Factory, Mattie's Diner and Automotive International that have really stepped up to support us, but I envision going forward being self supportive.
We have commissioned a commemorative T-Shirt to be made to showcase the Charlotte Area Cars and Coffee to be sold and all proceeds go to pay for the Sheriff's Duties going forward. I made a limited run of shirts that will sell for $20 each. We will be located behind Mattie's to sell the shirts, will have a Square device to take credit cards and debit cards this time! I greatly appreciate those that have purchased a T-Shirt or given a donation every little bit helps, but we are well shy of our goal of being self funded and I have a hell of a lot of t-shirts lefts!!! if a T-Shirt does not fit your needs a donation would be appreciated to keep our great event going and to keep it safe. The shirts were make by a local graphic artist, Billy Stephens and the colors are suppose to mimic the "Return of the Buzz" city theme that is sweeping over Charlotte. I hope you enjoy them as well as pick one up for yourself or a gift for a friend or family member. Remember the proceeds go to keep our event in tact and safe! I will only be there for a limited time in the morning, leaving around 8:30, but I will be back in November. We will have a Square payment for those the have a card only but for now CASH is king!
Just to restate the rules for those that may have missed it or those that just need a reminder.
Here are the rules:
-Absolutely no burnouts or horse play in the lot or the roads out front. It is irresponsible and safety is a huge concern for us. This is a one strike rule!. Violators will be asked not to return and the mater will be turned over to the CMPD/Sheriff's Dept.
-The Uptown division of the Mecklenburg police department is well aware of our event and will patrol the area. Speeding and unlawful behavior will not be tolerated on the public road out front or on the NC Music Factory's property. 911 will be called if antics prevail and the CMPD will respond!
-No vendors will be allowed to set up tables, booths or tents. As before you can hand out fliers if you wish but no signage or structures allowed.
-Trailers, box trucks and haulers will be asked to use lot #2 for parking, spaces are at a premium and these vehicles take up too much space and maneuvering them around is too high a risk for accidents.
-We need to leave the facilities better than we find them on each visit. NC Music Factory is letting us use this facility free of charge so we need to respect it, there are trash cans throughout the property please do not litter.
-Parking nearest to the Diner is reserved for regular restaurant patrons. We have the other 662 spaces!
Changes:
-there will be uniformed officers stationed at two points on the property, with one being in the turn lane of the frontage road. We hope this will deter any burnouts, rapid rates of speed and general idiotic moves leaving the parking lot.
-We are asking the bystanders that stand in front of the dinner to disperse, if those leaving don't have an audience of on lookers and video cameras it will greatly decrease the incidents that are possible. There is plenty of room in the parking look to take pictures and see the cars up close.
-Removing the on lookers at the entrance also will reduce the chances of anyone getting hurt by a vehicle that looses control.
Hope for great weather and see you Saturday!
Michael
Stalling.. Help please
mardi 28 octobre 2014
Okay, wow. Literally just got a fresh Reman engine. I pretty much drive it off the lot(they dropped it off to me at my work), i start the car.. Let it warm up, and drive off. Literally 1st stop sign I stall out. Car starts instantly, and when I try to switch it in drive, it stalls again, or if I just sit there. I do get a flashing CEL and my battery symbol is also on when key is in "ON" position. Help please... New plugs/wires/coils 500 miles ago.
Another "Won't Start" thread......
Newbie whose read about 100 "won't start" posts but haven't found one quite like my issue. Bought my neighbors 04 RX-8 with 78K miles. He was pretty meticulous with maintenance and had received the starter upgrade and replaced coil packs, plugs and oil change at 75K miles (oil done every 5K miles). Battery in car was 2 yrs old. We've put ~3K miles on car with no issues whatsoever. He warned about flooding issue but we've been careful to always let warm up before driving or shutting down. Drove to work and then returned home in the evening and all was well. Got in car 2 days later and key fob wouldn't unlock door. Opened manually and tried to start but got nothing. No lights, no starter "click", no dash lights, maintenance codes.....nothing. Replaced battery in fob and car. Terminals are squeaky clean and all connections tight. Went to unlock door with fob and no joy. Opened door manually and tried to start with no joy. No lights, no clicks, nothing. It's like there's not even a battery in the car! Tried pulling ignition and starter relay then reinserted with no change. Thanks in advance and sorry for another post like this!
fuel pump question
looking to buy a new fuel pump. Can you use an a.e.m performance pump in a 04 6spd with a intake , mid pipe cat delete and underdrive pulleys?
i am in need of a ssv valve and actuator
Hey fellow rotary heads. I have a 2004 6spd rx8 with a a.e.m intake , stainless midpipe with cat delete , under drive pulleys . I really think something is wrong with my car. I keep getting a misfire in cylinder two code. I have replaced all my ignition parts. I have tried seafoam. So I really think I need to replace the ssv actuator. It feels all loose and broken when I took upper intake manifold off and
looked to see if I could manually turn the ssv to open position. When I press my gas pedal to the flood my car struggles to climb through the power band. Does anyone have the parts in looking for?
looked to see if I could manually turn the ssv to open position. When I press my gas pedal to the flood my car struggles to climb through the power band. Does anyone have the parts in looking for?
The Importance of Winter Wiper Blades and Glass Treatment
Snow, ice, freezing rain, and frigid temperatures make winter driving treacherous; nevertheless you're prepared, right? But what about your wiper blades?
If they're the same ones that baked on your windshield all summer then you could be in for problems. How do you know if your wiper blades are any good? At no time of the year is seeing out of your windshield more important, and more difficult, than in winter. Quality wiper blades should evenly and effectively squeegee water out of their path in both directions no matter what speed you're going. Soft rubber compounds necessary for wiper performance are always under attack by road grit, the sun, acid rain, tree sap, ice, and especially winter salt. Arm your car or truck with Rain-X Glass Treatment and Rain-X wipers.
Rain-X Latitude 8-In-1 Wiper Blades are the ultimate blades for sleet and snow. Unlike conventional wiper blade frames, the Latitude's beam design won't collect ice and snow, which can freeze conventional frames to the point where the blade no longer contacts the windshield. With Latitude blades you won't have to interrupt your trip to clear ice and snow from wiper blade frames, only to have them freeze again. You can check the presentation of this product here:
Rain-X® - Latitude™ Wiper Blade
Another wiper blades Rain-X offers are Weatherbeater™ 22" Wiper Blade.
Rain-X® - Weatherbeater™ Wiper Blade
Also Rain-X develops a line of related glass care products. Because Rain-X Glass Treatment requires the glass surface to be perfectly clean, Rain-X X-treme Clean is the perfect glass cleaner. It removes dirt, grime, and bugs, plus build-up that other cleaners leave behind, from glass and clear plastic. Rain-X 2-In-1 Glass Cleaner not only cleans, it also applies a rain repellent to improve wet weather driving. Click here to see how exactly it works:
Rain-X® - Glass Treatment
Check an article on our website to learn more about these products: The Importance of Winter Wiper Blades
And are you ready for the winter?
If they're the same ones that baked on your windshield all summer then you could be in for problems. How do you know if your wiper blades are any good? At no time of the year is seeing out of your windshield more important, and more difficult, than in winter. Quality wiper blades should evenly and effectively squeegee water out of their path in both directions no matter what speed you're going. Soft rubber compounds necessary for wiper performance are always under attack by road grit, the sun, acid rain, tree sap, ice, and especially winter salt. Arm your car or truck with Rain-X Glass Treatment and Rain-X wipers.
Rain-X Latitude 8-In-1 Wiper Blades are the ultimate blades for sleet and snow. Unlike conventional wiper blade frames, the Latitude's beam design won't collect ice and snow, which can freeze conventional frames to the point where the blade no longer contacts the windshield. With Latitude blades you won't have to interrupt your trip to clear ice and snow from wiper blade frames, only to have them freeze again. You can check the presentation of this product here:
Rain-X® - Latitude™ Wiper Blade
Another wiper blades Rain-X offers are Weatherbeater™ 22" Wiper Blade.
Rain-X® - Weatherbeater™ Wiper Blade
Also Rain-X develops a line of related glass care products. Because Rain-X Glass Treatment requires the glass surface to be perfectly clean, Rain-X X-treme Clean is the perfect glass cleaner. It removes dirt, grime, and bugs, plus build-up that other cleaners leave behind, from glass and clear plastic. Rain-X 2-In-1 Glass Cleaner not only cleans, it also applies a rain repellent to improve wet weather driving. Click here to see how exactly it works:
Rain-X® - Glass Treatment
Check an article on our website to learn more about these products: The Importance of Winter Wiper Blades
And are you ready for the winter?
Help!!!!!!!!!!!
lundi 27 octobre 2014
hey everybody i have a 2005 mazda rx8 and i am having difficulties starting it.
one saturday night drove around great no problem next sunday morning i could not start it. sound like my battery had lost its charge i jumped it and sure it enough it start up. tried getting a new battery for it and they told me the one i had was perfect couldnt get a reading of with the code machine on what was wrong. eventually i thought it was the starter or alternator. changed the starter on it and it worked fine for like two days turn on like normal. after those 2 day it came back to the same problem i turn the key sometimes it clicks and other times you just hear it trying to turn on eventually it turn on if you hold the key for about 5 second but thats after 3 times. i dont know what the problem is and im going nut trying to figure it out. would appreaciate any advice or comments on this issue. (i have tried deflooding it since i read it was a common problem but thats not it)
one saturday night drove around great no problem next sunday morning i could not start it. sound like my battery had lost its charge i jumped it and sure it enough it start up. tried getting a new battery for it and they told me the one i had was perfect couldnt get a reading of with the code machine on what was wrong. eventually i thought it was the starter or alternator. changed the starter on it and it worked fine for like two days turn on like normal. after those 2 day it came back to the same problem i turn the key sometimes it clicks and other times you just hear it trying to turn on eventually it turn on if you hold the key for about 5 second but thats after 3 times. i dont know what the problem is and im going nut trying to figure it out. would appreaciate any advice or comments on this issue. (i have tried deflooding it since i read it was a common problem but thats not it)
New Potential Owner
What's up guys? I'm looking at picking up an 8 in the very near future (6 months or less). Hoping to meet some people who live in my area to talk and chill with once I get one or even before.
As my username suggests I'm going from having a Motorcycle (2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R) as my daily to an 8.
Any tips on what to look for that aren't listed in the new and potential owner threads? I've read those to death and just want to see what else I should look for when looking at an 8.
As my username suggests I'm going from having a Motorcycle (2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R) as my daily to an 8.
Any tips on what to look for that aren't listed in the new and potential owner threads? I've read those to death and just want to see what else I should look for when looking at an 8.
PO661 code!
My car has a PO661 Intake Man value control check engine light. How would i fix it? I have goggled it and i didn't find out what to do and i want to do it my self i don't want to take my car into mazda.
Faulty Door Open/Close Sensor. How to fix/disable?
My door open/close sensor keeps going off while driving. This means while driving the console flashes that a door is open and the lights come on.
I've removed the sensor for the front two doors, but it is still occurring so it has to be one of the two back doors. How do I disable this or remove the sensor?
It's driving me crazy as I drive.
I've removed the sensor for the front two doors, but it is still occurring so it has to be one of the two back doors. How do I disable this or remove the sensor?
It's driving me crazy as I drive.
Archwisp's "Build" Thread
Hey all,
I have wanted a concise place to put all of the work I've done on my car in one place. So, this is where it's going to be. It so much of a "build" thread, so to speak, as it is a "stuff I have fixed" thread. With some major suspension work I'm tackling this week, I figured it was time to start.
I have a bunch of stuff to back-fill but for now, I'll just add new posts as I do the work.
I have wanted a concise place to put all of the work I've done on my car in one place. So, this is where it's going to be. It so much of a "build" thread, so to speak, as it is a "stuff I have fixed" thread. With some major suspension work I'm tackling this week, I figured it was time to start.
I have a bunch of stuff to back-fill but for now, I'll just add new posts as I do the work.
{ FS } Hawk HP+ (front)
Front pair of Hawk HP+ brake pads with less than 20 miles on them used on brand new rotors. I ordered these brakes but don't go to the track/autocross so I switched them out to the HPS. Brakes stopped phenomenally, but a little too much brake dust, noise, and stopping power for what I need them for. Great price for awesome brakes for the weekend autocrosser.
$85
$85
Fuel Pump
I have just bought 2007 8 having no problems at moment except the dam noise from the fuel pump anything you can advise
{WTB} S1 MT shift knob
Looking for a stock (or possibly aftermarket) shift **** that fits the S1 6 speed manual transmission.
I'm either going to rock a stock shift **** or gut one for the threaded collar to make a wood shift ****.
paypal ready!
I'm either going to rock a stock shift **** or gut one for the threaded collar to make a wood shift ****.
paypal ready!
{WTB} 5-Speed RX-8 Shift Knob
Hey guys,
I seem to have misplaced the 5-speed RX-8 **** I wanted to use in my FD.
Does anyone have one for sale?
Thanks!
- Mike
I seem to have misplaced the 5-speed RX-8 **** I wanted to use in my FD.
Does anyone have one for sale?
Thanks!
- Mike
{WTB} OEM Spoiler (SS)
Hey guys, i'm looking to buy an oem spoiler in good condition. I would prefer it to be in sunlight silver so i dont have to paint it but gimme what you got
{ FS } Renny 13b rotor for sale
I am in desperate need of cash to pay my rent this month. I have had this rotor sitting on my toolbox for about a year. It came out of my first engine. It's in great condition, bearing has already been pushed out and I will run it through the parts cleaner at the shop before shipping it. I have a ton of pictures if anyone is interested.
I'm looking to sell it fast. Before end of week if possible. I'm not sure what they sell for so I'm just going to put 250obo.
I have too many pics to post on here. If you'd like to email me at drneub@gmail.com or txt at 717-seven 2 five one 1 two four. I'm be more then happy to send the pictures. Just need to make my rent, so help a fellow enthusiast out.
I'm looking to sell it fast. Before end of week if possible. I'm not sure what they sell for so I'm just going to put 250obo.
I have too many pics to post on here. If you'd like to email me at drneub@gmail.com or txt at 717-seven 2 five one 1 two four. I'm be more then happy to send the pictures. Just need to make my rent, so help a fellow enthusiast out.
Annoying whine from front of 6spd gewarbox while warming up and unhealthy bearing sou
What is that annoying whine during warm-up cycle ?
Also, for the first 10-15 miles, clutch has an unhealthy, sounds like a needle or roller bearing that isn't sufficently lubricated, coffee bean grinder sound until it's engaged
Also, for the first 10-15 miles, clutch has an unhealthy, sounds like a needle or roller bearing that isn't sufficently lubricated, coffee bean grinder sound until it's engaged
Single Radiator Fan?
Does anyone run, or know of anyone that runs a single radiator fan successfully? I'm looking to find out what CFM range would be adequate to cool the radiator at a sustained standing idle. I.E. Traffic
In cooler climates it seems like the stock fans can do this pretty well, but in high ambient temperature areas it gets difficult. (I am not looking for cooling suggestions, my car stays cool enough). I've read that the stock fans are rated at ~2300 CFM and ~1700 CFM, but there was no evidence backing that up, and I really doubt their rating is anywhere near that. If anyone has info on the stock flow volume it would be appreciated!
In cooler climates it seems like the stock fans can do this pretty well, but in high ambient temperature areas it gets difficult. (I am not looking for cooling suggestions, my car stays cool enough). I've read that the stock fans are rated at ~2300 CFM and ~1700 CFM, but there was no evidence backing that up, and I really doubt their rating is anywhere near that. If anyone has info on the stock flow volume it would be appreciated!
Different Tire Sizes
Didn't think this would apply in the will it fit thread as it's not for rims.
Currently I have stock all seasons 225/45/18 tires on and am looking for winter tires and possible found some, they are 245/55/18. What are going to be the differences between the two in terms of size, wider and shorter?
Currently I have stock all seasons 225/45/18 tires on and am looking for winter tires and possible found some, they are 245/55/18. What are going to be the differences between the two in terms of size, wider and shorter?
car does not crank. need Help!
dimanche 26 octobre 2014
So my 2004 rx8 with 115K miles does not want to crank. i was able to bypass the issue by putting a push start button to crank. but the radio does not power on and the interior lights. also the abs light and traction light stay on and after about five minutes the gas gauge drops down all the way. i was also able to bypass the no radio power issue and inside light issue with a separate on/off switch but the fuse i put on it blows after a few minutes. i had a 350W amp and sub. i don't know if that would be causing the issue. any help would be greatly appreciated.
by the way i just got this car and it ******* rocks!:rock:
by the way i just got this car and it ******* rocks!:rock:
New Member Daniel
I have not have a compression test done on it what would be the problems with the engine
{ FS } Pirelli Sottozero Serie II On Stock Wheels
Stock wheels and stock tire size. These Pirellis though are perfect winter tires! I drove them for 1400kms last winter and they were great. I will not be driving my 8 this winter and have another set of wheels and tires so these need to be sold before they lose their freshness.
I'm located in Arnprior, Ontario. I am asking 700$ for the tires on the stock (GT 2004) wheels.
I'm located in Arnprior, Ontario. I am asking 700$ for the tires on the stock (GT 2004) wheels.
New member
Hey fellas and ladies,
Just dropping in as a newbie to say HI and TY :bootyshak
Have been looking through your forums for information for a year now (hence the title of this thread) and has been immensely helpful to get opinions and DIY's from other rotary owners. :D:
Just dropping in as a newbie to say HI and TY :bootyshak
Have been looking through your forums for information for a year now (hence the title of this thread) and has been immensely helpful to get opinions and DIY's from other rotary owners. :D:
bhr ignition problems
I have had my 8 for awhile now an I haven't had any real problems with it I got my bhr ignition kit this week an installed it today and started it up an it started harder than it did before. While I was installing it the only thing that comes to mind is that the trailing 2 sparkplug wasn't in as far as the trailing one but it was hard to get it in there any farther. Taking it off it was really tight as well im just wondering if this could be the problem it's in there a good ways just not as far as the first one. I also have before an after start ups if I knew how to post them. Any help is appreciated
From pervert to rapist
Hey fellas and ladies,
Just dropping in as a newbie to say HI and TY :bootyshak
Have been looking through your forums for information for a year now (hence the title of this thread) and has been immensely helpful to get opinions and DIY's from other rotary owners. :D:
Just dropping in as a newbie to say HI and TY :bootyshak
Have been looking through your forums for information for a year now (hence the title of this thread) and has been immensely helpful to get opinions and DIY's from other rotary owners. :D:
Diving into rearend swap
So read a couple forums and watched some youtube and have decided to swap out my first gen diff with the gen two diff.
I only wanted to hear latest info on this sway if there is any.
Would anyone be interested in discussing over the phone there experiences good or bad? Before i spend 2000 just want to make sure i have everything covered.
Thanks guys.
I only wanted to hear latest info on this sway if there is any.
Would anyone be interested in discussing over the phone there experiences good or bad? Before i spend 2000 just want to make sure i have everything covered.
Thanks guys.
Installing ewp and a/c delete
Sup dudes..
So acouple of weeks ago me and a friend where recharging my ac when I assume the gasket on the compressor gave away. I doubt it was a hose we blew. Anyway I know it's really bad for the freon to leak into hour atmosphere so let's just say we cought it Just in time. Since then I've decided to remove the ac all together since I bought this car with the intentions on tracking it. I've also decided to install a EWP. I found an Alunimum EWP150 KIT, DaviesCraigs manufacture that is comprible for our motor. RX8Performance caries a convertion plate for the water pump. before you start chewing me out about how unreliable Electrical systems are, let me stop you there. DaviesCrag has designed a remote that performase many task. Such as disconnecting the fans from the ecu and being able to control them and the pump while the car is off. You can control the amount of pressure being delivered upon temperature. Also it can test the system to make sure everything is working correctly. Since its wired to the ignition system I assume if It did fail while you where driving it would blow a fuse and turn everything off. I guess this aliminates any possiblity of critical failure. right?
I am ordering these parts and I'll keep people up to date during the build in case you are interested. I will also be changing the coolant to Evans cooling. Good reviews. And since there is practically no pressure with the EWP but a constant flow of fluid. I think this combination can eliminate bubbles at high RMPs we experience that could possibly cause hot spots and kill the side seals.
Any way the purpose to this thread is because I am interested in lighter wieght pulleys. One that is not underdrivin(modified diameter that allows less rotations) and possibly one for the alternator as well. I want to maximize the gains from having less drag on the motor. Since I am down to utilizing one pulley now I don't know how short of a belt I need. Anybody got an idea?
Thanks
:rock:
So acouple of weeks ago me and a friend where recharging my ac when I assume the gasket on the compressor gave away. I doubt it was a hose we blew. Anyway I know it's really bad for the freon to leak into hour atmosphere so let's just say we cought it Just in time. Since then I've decided to remove the ac all together since I bought this car with the intentions on tracking it. I've also decided to install a EWP. I found an Alunimum EWP150 KIT, DaviesCraigs manufacture that is comprible for our motor. RX8Performance caries a convertion plate for the water pump. before you start chewing me out about how unreliable Electrical systems are, let me stop you there. DaviesCrag has designed a remote that performase many task. Such as disconnecting the fans from the ecu and being able to control them and the pump while the car is off. You can control the amount of pressure being delivered upon temperature. Also it can test the system to make sure everything is working correctly. Since its wired to the ignition system I assume if It did fail while you where driving it would blow a fuse and turn everything off. I guess this aliminates any possiblity of critical failure. right?
I am ordering these parts and I'll keep people up to date during the build in case you are interested. I will also be changing the coolant to Evans cooling. Good reviews. And since there is practically no pressure with the EWP but a constant flow of fluid. I think this combination can eliminate bubbles at high RMPs we experience that could possibly cause hot spots and kill the side seals.
Any way the purpose to this thread is because I am interested in lighter wieght pulleys. One that is not underdrivin(modified diameter that allows less rotations) and possibly one for the alternator as well. I want to maximize the gains from having less drag on the motor. Since I am down to utilizing one pulley now I don't know how short of a belt I need. Anybody got an idea?
Thanks
:rock:
newb from Oxfordshire.
Hi folks.
Just a quick hello before I go into the search engine and try to fix my rx8. :)
Just a quick hello before I go into the search engine and try to fix my rx8. :)
{ FS } Winter Package Plus
Winter tires & stock rims $300
Bought these off of ChadD two season ago. Still good for a season or two.
Link:
http://ift.tt/1uZ0zGB
Stock winter Mats $60 Excellent condition.
Also
Racing Beat Oil Cooler Screens for S2's $25
Link:
RX-8 Oil Cooler Screen for 09-11 RX-8 - Racing Beat
All items are pick-up only, pm me if interested
Bought these off of ChadD two season ago. Still good for a season or two.
Link:
http://ift.tt/1uZ0zGB
Stock winter Mats $60 Excellent condition.
Also
Racing Beat Oil Cooler Screens for S2's $25
Link:
RX-8 Oil Cooler Screen for 09-11 RX-8 - Racing Beat
All items are pick-up only, pm me if interested
Check engine light?
samedi 25 octobre 2014
I stalled my car and i never turned the car off all the way off and then i went to my friends sand business and tried to do a drift twice and then i remembered that the traction control was on so i turned off the car and held the traction control button and then i started the car and noticed the check engine light was on and i did a drift and on my way out i was revving the car quite high i did not over rev the car but i don't know what rpm i was doing and then i went home and the next day i drove the car and the car seemed to be in the limp mode then i noticed the idle was lower so after i was done driving my car i disconnected the battery and the check engine light went away i revved the car up to like 6000 rpm and the check engine light never came back on. So want do you guys think is tripping it? Next time the light comes on ill get it scanned and see what it is.:suspect:
P0302 please HELP!!! HELP!!!
Hi People.
I need some help with the current situation.
here is my car
2004 RX8 GT with BHR ignition solution.
today on track day, I threw a CEL P0302 at about 7k RPM. The light flashed and stayed on.
Some loss of power under hard pull at more than 6k.
Drove on for another lap before I stopped due a red flag in front of me.
Drove the car home on the highway without problem.
No problem with ideling or any noticeable difference at daily drive.
I didn't try pulling the car hard after that.
What is the most likely problem here??
-ignition?? coils, plugs, wires are about 4 years old.
-compression?? Have never had a compression test
-gas pump?? replaced about 6 years ago due to stupid dealer messing with me.
-Never had problem with MAF or O2 sensor.
-full tank of gas
Never had this problem during daily driving unless i kept on pulling hard in third gear on highway. (so 7k RPM for prolonged time)
do you recommend keep on driving it? or is it an ASAP situation.
Please help. I hope I don't lose compression. I love this car.
I need some help with the current situation.
here is my car
2004 RX8 GT with BHR ignition solution.
today on track day, I threw a CEL P0302 at about 7k RPM. The light flashed and stayed on.
Some loss of power under hard pull at more than 6k.
Drove on for another lap before I stopped due a red flag in front of me.
Drove the car home on the highway without problem.
No problem with ideling or any noticeable difference at daily drive.
I didn't try pulling the car hard after that.
What is the most likely problem here??
-ignition?? coils, plugs, wires are about 4 years old.
-compression?? Have never had a compression test
-gas pump?? replaced about 6 years ago due to stupid dealer messing with me.
-Never had problem with MAF or O2 sensor.
-full tank of gas
Never had this problem during daily driving unless i kept on pulling hard in third gear on highway. (so 7k RPM for prolonged time)
do you recommend keep on driving it? or is it an ASAP situation.
Please help. I hope I don't lose compression. I love this car.
{ FS } 2004 rx-8
Hello!
Unfortunately the time has come to sell my girl...
I'm moving out of the province and I'll have to leave her here...
- maintenance at MAZDA or Derwin Tuning (Club RX Québec)
- BOSE 6-CD premium audio
- rust-free (never winter-driven)
- very clean, smoke-free, pet-free, food and drink-free :D
- always fed with PetroCanada ULTRA94 or Shell V-Power 91
- receipts and documentation
- OEM wheels and summer tires
Modification list:
-TEIN coilovers
-AXIS Super Hiro 19-inch Wheels + Nitto tires (should be changed sometime next summer)
-HID headlights + foglights
-LED lights (interior)
-Iridium NGK Spark Plugs + coils + plugs, installed last summer
-StreetGlow underbody neon kit, professionally installed, right tube is not working at the moment
-Skirt kit
Package deal includes:
1 1/2 bottle of Klotx premix oil
1 bottle of Brad Penn engine oil
maintenance/detailing kit (Meguiar's products, and others)
You're most welcome to come give it a try!
Kijiji hyperlink: 2004 Mazda RX-8 GS Coupe (2 door) | autos et camions | Longueuil / Rive-Sud | Kijiji
---
Salut!
Finalement est venu l'heure de vendre mon bébé...
Je déménage hors du Québec et il faut que je la laisse...
- maintenance chez MAZDA ou chez Derwin Tuning (Club RX Québec)
- BOSE 6-CD système audio premium
- aucune rouille (jamais vue l'hiver)
- très propre, pas de fumée, pas des animaux dedans, pas de nourriture ou boisson dedans! :)
- toujours bu du PetroCanada ULTRA94 ou Shell V-Power 91
- documentation à l'appui
- roues et pneus d'été d'origine
Liste de modification:
-élargisseurs TEIN
-roues AXIS Super Hiro 19-inch + pneus Nitto (il faudrait les changer l'été prochain)
-phares + phares antibrouillard HID
-lumières LED (interior)
-Bugies Iridium NGK + bobines + bouchons, installés cet été
-kit de néon StreetGlow installé profissionnellement, tube à gauche ne fonctionne pas pour l'instant
-kit de jupe
Combo incluant:
1 1/2 bouteille d'huile de pr émélange Klotx
1 bouteille d'huile à moteur Brad Penn
kit de maintenance/nettoyage (produits Meguiar's et autres)
Tu es bienvenu pour venir la tester!
Kijiji hyperlien: 2004 Mazda RX-8 GS Coupe (2 door) | autos et camions | Longueuil / Rive-Sud | Kijiji
Unfortunately the time has come to sell my girl...
I'm moving out of the province and I'll have to leave her here...
- maintenance at MAZDA or Derwin Tuning (Club RX Québec)
- BOSE 6-CD premium audio
- rust-free (never winter-driven)
- very clean, smoke-free, pet-free, food and drink-free :D
- always fed with PetroCanada ULTRA94 or Shell V-Power 91
- receipts and documentation
- OEM wheels and summer tires
Modification list:
-TEIN coilovers
-AXIS Super Hiro 19-inch Wheels + Nitto tires (should be changed sometime next summer)
-HID headlights + foglights
-LED lights (interior)
-Iridium NGK Spark Plugs + coils + plugs, installed last summer
-StreetGlow underbody neon kit, professionally installed, right tube is not working at the moment
-Skirt kit
Package deal includes:
1 1/2 bottle of Klotx premix oil
1 bottle of Brad Penn engine oil
maintenance/detailing kit (Meguiar's products, and others)
You're most welcome to come give it a try!
Kijiji hyperlink: 2004 Mazda RX-8 GS Coupe (2 door) | autos et camions | Longueuil / Rive-Sud | Kijiji
---
Salut!
Finalement est venu l'heure de vendre mon bébé...
Je déménage hors du Québec et il faut que je la laisse...
- maintenance chez MAZDA ou chez Derwin Tuning (Club RX Québec)
- BOSE 6-CD système audio premium
- aucune rouille (jamais vue l'hiver)
- très propre, pas de fumée, pas des animaux dedans, pas de nourriture ou boisson dedans! :)
- toujours bu du PetroCanada ULTRA94 ou Shell V-Power 91
- documentation à l'appui
- roues et pneus d'été d'origine
Liste de modification:
-élargisseurs TEIN
-roues AXIS Super Hiro 19-inch + pneus Nitto (il faudrait les changer l'été prochain)
-phares + phares antibrouillard HID
-lumières LED (interior)
-Bugies Iridium NGK + bobines + bouchons, installés cet été
-kit de néon StreetGlow installé profissionnellement, tube à gauche ne fonctionne pas pour l'instant
-kit de jupe
Combo incluant:
1 1/2 bouteille d'huile de pr émélange Klotx
1 bouteille d'huile à moteur Brad Penn
kit de maintenance/nettoyage (produits Meguiar's et autres)
Tu es bienvenu pour venir la tester!
Kijiji hyperlien: 2004 Mazda RX-8 GS Coupe (2 door) | autos et camions | Longueuil / Rive-Sud | Kijiji
Steering turning the airbag light on.
Hi so I have a 04 rx8, that I just got done rebuilding the engine in.
I've got the car running great with over 300 miles on it so far. The problem
I'm having is when I'm driving the car, if I make a sharp right hand corner
Turn the steering wheel has a bad catch in it, feels like the wheel is folding back
Lol and steering wheel feels like it has no power steer to it. But when I pull out of the corner, the airbag light will start flashing the remain on. But it's only to the right. If
I drive at lower speeds and take lite turns it's fine. And it's only when the car is moving. Sitting still the steering works fine with no binds and no airbag light.
All tirerod ends and so on are all good and tight. Plus driving at low speeds sometimes
The rear makes a slight bump and the dsc car light will flash. But not at all times.
And when it does it, it feels like a locker in the rear diff lol or may be the abs and tcs
Acting up lol but no lights. If you can help would be GREAT thanks.
I've got the car running great with over 300 miles on it so far. The problem
I'm having is when I'm driving the car, if I make a sharp right hand corner
Turn the steering wheel has a bad catch in it, feels like the wheel is folding back
Lol and steering wheel feels like it has no power steer to it. But when I pull out of the corner, the airbag light will start flashing the remain on. But it's only to the right. If
I drive at lower speeds and take lite turns it's fine. And it's only when the car is moving. Sitting still the steering works fine with no binds and no airbag light.
All tirerod ends and so on are all good and tight. Plus driving at low speeds sometimes
The rear makes a slight bump and the dsc car light will flash. But not at all times.
And when it does it, it feels like a locker in the rear diff lol or may be the abs and tcs
Acting up lol but no lights. If you can help would be GREAT thanks.
Diving into rearend swap
So read a couple forums and watched some youtube and have decided to swap out my first gen diff with the gen two diff. I only wanted to hear latest info on this sway if there is any. Would anyone be interested in discussing over the phone there experiences good or bad? Before i spend 2000 just want to make sure i have everything covered. Thanks guys.
New member, new owner !!!
Hi to all my fellow RX8 owners,am looking at finding some new friends online with a common interest i.e. the 8 👌 any new hints tips general easy mods for car would love to here any ideas. Thanks ✌️
How much life is left on my engine?
I have a 2005 MT RX-8 with 91k miles. Mods include AEM cold air, BHR ignition coils and a gutted cat.
About 6 months ago, I started having start-up issues. It would take about 5 or 6 turns (2 or 3 seconds) before the engine started, hot or cold. I replaced the spark plugs and got an upgraded 2.0 kW starter. It didn't help much. Compression test showed low compression. At 300 RPM (because of new starter) Front: 7.8, 7.8, 8.0 and Rear: 7.5, 7.6, 7.5
I was bummed out but figured maybe I can drive it for another 2 years or so until I have enough saved for a new engine or another car. I started pre-mixing and tried to get a redline in every so often.
A few days ago, my start up has gotten worse; it takes about 9 or 10 turns (about 5 seconds) before starting, hot or cold. I also notice a bit of loss of power at low RPMs. It idles fine though. Is 2 years wishful thinking? How much longer before it becomes impractical to use?
Thanks,
Tom
About 6 months ago, I started having start-up issues. It would take about 5 or 6 turns (2 or 3 seconds) before the engine started, hot or cold. I replaced the spark plugs and got an upgraded 2.0 kW starter. It didn't help much. Compression test showed low compression. At 300 RPM (because of new starter) Front: 7.8, 7.8, 8.0 and Rear: 7.5, 7.6, 7.5
I was bummed out but figured maybe I can drive it for another 2 years or so until I have enough saved for a new engine or another car. I started pre-mixing and tried to get a redline in every so often.
A few days ago, my start up has gotten worse; it takes about 9 or 10 turns (about 5 seconds) before starting, hot or cold. I also notice a bit of loss of power at low RPMs. It idles fine though. Is 2 years wishful thinking? How much longer before it becomes impractical to use?
Thanks,
Tom
{ FS } Racing Brake ET500 - full set - low miles
Full set of Racing Brake ET500 pads. These have roughly 8000 daily driven miles on them. Never tracked.
They retail for ~$170. Asking $100 OBO. $6 priority mail shipping in the lower 48 states.
They retail for ~$170. Asking $100 OBO. $6 priority mail shipping in the lower 48 states.
Problems after engine swap. Need advice!
Hello, first i would like to say that i've been lurking and learning about the RX-8 for a long time on this website, i never needed to make an account since most issues that have came up were fixed with a quick search but now i've hit a brick wall.
BACK STORY: A few weeks back me and my dad bought a 2004 Rx8, 4 speed auto, 127k miles, the engine was overheated and burned out by the previous owner. from the looks of it, the car hadn't been started for a long while when we got it. The engine would spin but wouldnt turn on.
WHAT WE TRIED: We bought a new engine that came out of a running car with 50k miles. it was from a 2004 manual 5 speed. we swapped the old engine with the new one, but kept the old wiring, old computer, and old transmission. as well as everything else not pertaining to the main engine. it also has the updated N3Z2 starter from the old engine.
We changed the oil, tranny oil, added gas (since the old one was probably no good), new oil filter, reset ESS (aka 20 brake pumps) , checked and cleaned the ESS sensor, Checked and cleaned MAF sensor and made sure to keep the battery charged at all times. We also checked the spark plugs, coils, and wires in the new engine and they looked clean. we bought a new radiator but haven't yet installed it.
CURRENTLY: Today we went and cleaned up the engine and tried to crank it. The first couple of times we tried it just spun over and over. Eventually after a while of trying we got it to crank (had to give it gas while cranking). At first it would only stay on if i was giving it gas, a lot of white smoke came out and i let go of the gas after about a minute and it stayed on like that (everything sounded normal) for about 5 minutes, after that i tried to rev it up to 2,500 but my foot slipped slightly and the revs dropped and caused the engine to die (this is where i'm stuck) engine temperature was at about half way in the gauge.
We tried turning it back on a bit later but it went back to just spinning over. after fiddlying around with the car we noticed a cable was unplugged at the transmission (we have no idea where it goes, ill try to get a picture soon so you can help) my dad said it shouldnt have anything to do with the engine so we tried turning it on again and it finally did (took about 10 seconds of cranking while giving it gas, as well as a battery charger connected to the battery and some starter fluid) some more white smoke came out but a lot less than the first time. I kept my foot on the gas and kept RPMs at about 2,000. after about 2 minutes i tried slowly revving it up to 2,500 and kept it there for about 30 seconds then suddenly the engine died. (this is also where i need help, i have no idea whats made this happen) the engine fans came on shortly after it died.
CODES: the codes the car gave us were;
Engine: P0301; Cylinder one misfire detected. (we put different spark plug and wires on rotor 1, then erased the codes but they still came back when we started it the second time)
Transmission: U0101; Lost communication with TCM.
I'd appreciate any help at all. if you need any information just ask and ill try to answer. THANK YOU!!!!!
BACK STORY: A few weeks back me and my dad bought a 2004 Rx8, 4 speed auto, 127k miles, the engine was overheated and burned out by the previous owner. from the looks of it, the car hadn't been started for a long while when we got it. The engine would spin but wouldnt turn on.
WHAT WE TRIED: We bought a new engine that came out of a running car with 50k miles. it was from a 2004 manual 5 speed. we swapped the old engine with the new one, but kept the old wiring, old computer, and old transmission. as well as everything else not pertaining to the main engine. it also has the updated N3Z2 starter from the old engine.
We changed the oil, tranny oil, added gas (since the old one was probably no good), new oil filter, reset ESS (aka 20 brake pumps) , checked and cleaned the ESS sensor, Checked and cleaned MAF sensor and made sure to keep the battery charged at all times. We also checked the spark plugs, coils, and wires in the new engine and they looked clean. we bought a new radiator but haven't yet installed it.
CURRENTLY: Today we went and cleaned up the engine and tried to crank it. The first couple of times we tried it just spun over and over. Eventually after a while of trying we got it to crank (had to give it gas while cranking). At first it would only stay on if i was giving it gas, a lot of white smoke came out and i let go of the gas after about a minute and it stayed on like that (everything sounded normal) for about 5 minutes, after that i tried to rev it up to 2,500 but my foot slipped slightly and the revs dropped and caused the engine to die (this is where i'm stuck) engine temperature was at about half way in the gauge.
We tried turning it back on a bit later but it went back to just spinning over. after fiddlying around with the car we noticed a cable was unplugged at the transmission (we have no idea where it goes, ill try to get a picture soon so you can help) my dad said it shouldnt have anything to do with the engine so we tried turning it on again and it finally did (took about 10 seconds of cranking while giving it gas, as well as a battery charger connected to the battery and some starter fluid) some more white smoke came out but a lot less than the first time. I kept my foot on the gas and kept RPMs at about 2,000. after about 2 minutes i tried slowly revving it up to 2,500 and kept it there for about 30 seconds then suddenly the engine died. (this is also where i need help, i have no idea whats made this happen) the engine fans came on shortly after it died.
CODES: the codes the car gave us were;
Engine: P0301; Cylinder one misfire detected. (we put different spark plug and wires on rotor 1, then erased the codes but they still came back when we started it the second time)
Transmission: U0101; Lost communication with TCM.
I'd appreciate any help at all. if you need any information just ask and ill try to answer. THANK YOU!!!!!
Long time lurker. Finally going to Buy an 8?
I have been an owner of a 2nd Gen RX-7 for over 5 years now. And once I get back from deployment I am going to need a new vehicle. My 99 ranger which was a great little truck was just too small and not fun to drive. Before I left I was pretty set on getting an Avalanche or 4 door truck simply because we need the extra room. Then I found a Mazda 6 wagon with a 5-speed to replace the wife's aging Cavalier. Since my car is going to be a DD and for what trucks are going for I am in 09 RX-8 price ranges and MPGs. I have a hard time with living with an automatic. I use to yell at my wife's cavalier all the time for shifting at weird times.
When I was having a bad week I would go out and test drive a 8 to feel better. Untill I almost bought one when I really couldn't afford one. It told about 4 months or so to talk myself into the idea an 8 is a bad ideal, then I started to watch Youtube review videos and know I am hooked again. I am leaning towards a S2 because I like the looks of them a little better then the S1.(mmmm Blue R3) And during my searching a 2006 to 2008 is pretty hard to find. Any input in to why you bought your 8 would be great.
When I was having a bad week I would go out and test drive a 8 to feel better. Untill I almost bought one when I really couldn't afford one. It told about 4 months or so to talk myself into the idea an 8 is a bad ideal, then I started to watch Youtube review videos and know I am hooked again. I am leaning towards a S2 because I like the looks of them a little better then the S1.(mmmm Blue R3) And during my searching a 2006 to 2008 is pretty hard to find. Any input in to why you bought your 8 would be great.
help please she died i think
hi im a newbee to the rx8 n fell hopelessly in love !
on start up the other day at 1pm she started up fine ran for 4 to 5 secs then started banging from the engine it banged 3 times so i turned her off ...i know i shouldnt of as its flooded it got it towed ,it turnes over and no banging noise ,tow truck guy was cool said his son had 2 rx`s n he said plugs/coils failed resulting in a flood,can anyone recommend a mechanic in leicester uk as everyone i phone dont want to touch her! thanks rob
:banghead:
on start up the other day at 1pm she started up fine ran for 4 to 5 secs then started banging from the engine it banged 3 times so i turned her off ...i know i shouldnt of as its flooded it got it towed ,it turnes over and no banging noise ,tow truck guy was cool said his son had 2 rx`s n he said plugs/coils failed resulting in a flood,can anyone recommend a mechanic in leicester uk as everyone i phone dont want to touch her! thanks rob
:banghead:
Please need help my dream car is having problems
vendredi 24 octobre 2014
by Treefrog , Today at 11:33 PM
I own a mazda rx8 2005 shinka with 89,000 miles. Car will not get past 5,ooo RPM i have to let my foot off the gas to get it to shift and when it shifts it shifts hard i have lack of horse power. At a stop light and then press the gas to go and it seem like it's going to stall but ends up going. Please any ideas of what might be wrong please let me know. Thank you
I own a mazda rx8 2005 shinka with 89,000 miles. Car will not get past 5,ooo RPM i have to let my foot off the gas to get it to shift and when it shifts it shifts hard i have lack of horse power. At a stop light and then press the gas to go and it seem like it's going to stall but ends up going. Please any ideas of what might be wrong please let me know. Thank you
{FS/WTT} 2004 RX-8 GT (TiGrey)
Hi, I am gauging to see if there is any interest out there.
It is a 2004 GT with 121,411km on it (driven another 20km since the picture). The car had been well taken cared of since I had gotten the car from the previous owner. Did oil changes every 5,000km or so. I had been using 5W40 Mogul, synthetic.
The car has some rust spots, and can see a few bubbling on both rear quarter panels. I also have 4 winter tires to give away (off rims). Summer and winter tires are both at around 7/32nd.
I am looking to get around $8,000 or if someone has a good condition Impreza then that would be good too. I am looking to downsize because I need to save up money for a place with my wife, hence the change to an Impreza.
I am trying to upload the pictures but it isn't working, so I will have to upload it later. Please bare with me everyone!!
It is a 2004 GT with 121,411km on it (driven another 20km since the picture). The car had been well taken cared of since I had gotten the car from the previous owner. Did oil changes every 5,000km or so. I had been using 5W40 Mogul, synthetic.
The car has some rust spots, and can see a few bubbling on both rear quarter panels. I also have 4 winter tires to give away (off rims). Summer and winter tires are both at around 7/32nd.
I am looking to get around $8,000 or if someone has a good condition Impreza then that would be good too. I am looking to downsize because I need to save up money for a place with my wife, hence the change to an Impreza.
I am trying to upload the pictures but it isn't working, so I will have to upload it later. Please bare with me everyone!!
Mystery RX-8 engine issues; looking for advice
Hello all.
I bought my '07 RX-8 about two years ago, certified used with just under 30k, in beautiful condition. Apparently the previous owner traded it in on a Mazda3 that was an easier fit for the carseat. It's been great, love the way it drives; but after a while I started to notice some odd behavior that would only really show up on/after pretty long drives; like over an hour. It'd feel sluggish, bog down, and eventually a weird irregular rattle started to surface, while under power in the 5500-6200 rpm range. The weird thing would be, once I'd get it home and let it rest overnight, it would be back to normal again the next morning, plenty of power, no rattles anywhere up the rpm range. I've run premium gas (93 octane) pretty much the whole 20k I've put on it, though it's often been discount/Kroger fuel.
Since I was mostly doing short drives, I let it lie for a while, didn't start trying hard to get it diagnosed until I was looking at a crosscountry drive for my move back to California. Needless to say, getting the dealer to know what they were trying to fix was a challenge, since the problems only assert themselves after the car has been going pretty solid for a while. My Virginia dealer's best guess in the time available before I left was sticky secondary intake shutter valves; they cleaned them a bit before I left and the rattle got less pronounced. They put in fresh sparkplugs at the same time at my request; I had spares already
The car made it across the country, but it definitely suffered; oddly enough it actually seemed to get better or worse through the course of pretty solid days of driving (9-15 hours/day). Starting back up at a rest stop just over the California border, it finally threw it's first check engine light (secondary shutter valve stuck open, I believe). It almost seemed to regain some of it's lost power once the CEL was on, but it might have been my imagination on that front.
I've been working through the local dealer out here since then, the Certified Used status came with a 100k engine/powertrain limited warantee, so I'm hoping that should help defray major costs, they've at least been good about getting me into loaner cars as well, which has also been helpful. That said, they haven't really been able to isolate the problem. I'll go through what they've worked through so far.
Replacing the main intake manifold and shutter valves was their first step, since they were siezed up with deposits. On the drive home it threw a new CEL for the lower shutter valve, and started misfiring pretty badly.
The lower shutter was apparently misaligned, the position sensor was supposedly off by 40 degrees or so, they blamed the first dealer for this, but as far as I know, the first dealer didn't touch that part. Correcting that didn't solve the issue either. The misfires were mostly happening on the front rotor, as many as 86 in one key cycle. Next they swapped in a set of used coils in good condition, which helped some (old ones were damaged/arcing). A hot compression test put the front rotor quite low, but not quite low enough to fail the short block by Mazda's guidelines. They also inspected the cat converter and said it looked fine.
I've had their service guy do ridealongs with me when the car was acting up, and he swears the rattle sounds like the engine is pinging, but he's never heard of a rotary doing that.
Again, the car drives well when it's cold, and for as long as 40-50 minutes, then it progressively turns into an underpowered, misfiring mess. Any ideas? Seems like my local dealer is down to trying to negotiate with Mazda for a new short block, so far unsuccessfully.
Thanks in advance for any wisdom any of you can impart!
-Tom
I bought my '07 RX-8 about two years ago, certified used with just under 30k, in beautiful condition. Apparently the previous owner traded it in on a Mazda3 that was an easier fit for the carseat. It's been great, love the way it drives; but after a while I started to notice some odd behavior that would only really show up on/after pretty long drives; like over an hour. It'd feel sluggish, bog down, and eventually a weird irregular rattle started to surface, while under power in the 5500-6200 rpm range. The weird thing would be, once I'd get it home and let it rest overnight, it would be back to normal again the next morning, plenty of power, no rattles anywhere up the rpm range. I've run premium gas (93 octane) pretty much the whole 20k I've put on it, though it's often been discount/Kroger fuel.
Since I was mostly doing short drives, I let it lie for a while, didn't start trying hard to get it diagnosed until I was looking at a crosscountry drive for my move back to California. Needless to say, getting the dealer to know what they were trying to fix was a challenge, since the problems only assert themselves after the car has been going pretty solid for a while. My Virginia dealer's best guess in the time available before I left was sticky secondary intake shutter valves; they cleaned them a bit before I left and the rattle got less pronounced. They put in fresh sparkplugs at the same time at my request; I had spares already
The car made it across the country, but it definitely suffered; oddly enough it actually seemed to get better or worse through the course of pretty solid days of driving (9-15 hours/day). Starting back up at a rest stop just over the California border, it finally threw it's first check engine light (secondary shutter valve stuck open, I believe). It almost seemed to regain some of it's lost power once the CEL was on, but it might have been my imagination on that front.
I've been working through the local dealer out here since then, the Certified Used status came with a 100k engine/powertrain limited warantee, so I'm hoping that should help defray major costs, they've at least been good about getting me into loaner cars as well, which has also been helpful. That said, they haven't really been able to isolate the problem. I'll go through what they've worked through so far.
Replacing the main intake manifold and shutter valves was their first step, since they were siezed up with deposits. On the drive home it threw a new CEL for the lower shutter valve, and started misfiring pretty badly.
The lower shutter was apparently misaligned, the position sensor was supposedly off by 40 degrees or so, they blamed the first dealer for this, but as far as I know, the first dealer didn't touch that part. Correcting that didn't solve the issue either. The misfires were mostly happening on the front rotor, as many as 86 in one key cycle. Next they swapped in a set of used coils in good condition, which helped some (old ones were damaged/arcing). A hot compression test put the front rotor quite low, but not quite low enough to fail the short block by Mazda's guidelines. They also inspected the cat converter and said it looked fine.
I've had their service guy do ridealongs with me when the car was acting up, and he swears the rattle sounds like the engine is pinging, but he's never heard of a rotary doing that.
Again, the car drives well when it's cold, and for as long as 40-50 minutes, then it progressively turns into an underpowered, misfiring mess. Any ideas? Seems like my local dealer is down to trying to negotiate with Mazda for a new short block, so far unsuccessfully.
Thanks in advance for any wisdom any of you can impart!
-Tom
New Brakes Recommendation for DD and Light Track Use
Whoops, sorry guys, I accidentally perma deleted this thread while trying to move my post/recommendation from another thread to this one. Not on my game tonight. This was not intentional at all. I am asking an admin if it's possible to recover the posts. :(
{WTB} Foglight Housings
Hey guys I'm looking for some fog light housings preferably with the brackets too.
Air Bag Recall includes RX8's
I was just reading about the air bag recall that has been in the news lately and I seen that it also includes the 2004 - 2008 RX8's.
Mazda (64,872): 2003–2007 Mazda 6; 2006–2007 Mazdaspeed 6; 2004–2008 Mazda RX-8; 2004–2005 MPV; 2004 B-series
I wonder if they will also replace the cracked dash covers on the passenger side of our cars. Mine is cracked pretty bad and I've been contemplating replacing it. But now maybe I can get the dealer to replace it for free. :)
Does anybody else have any information of this?
I think I'm going to take my car down to the dealer tomorrow morning and see what they have to say about it.
Here's a link to the article that I found: http://ift.tt/1DJrI6Z
Mazda (64,872): 2003–2007 Mazda 6; 2006–2007 Mazdaspeed 6; 2004–2008 Mazda RX-8; 2004–2005 MPV; 2004 B-series
I wonder if they will also replace the cracked dash covers on the passenger side of our cars. Mine is cracked pretty bad and I've been contemplating replacing it. But now maybe I can get the dealer to replace it for free. :)
Does anybody else have any information of this?
I think I'm going to take my car down to the dealer tomorrow morning and see what they have to say about it.
Here's a link to the article that I found: http://ift.tt/1DJrI6Z
{ FS } winter set-up (tires and wheels)
for sale:
Hankook Winter i*Pike W409 215/55/17 mounted on OEM Mazda 3 17" wheels
great winter setup. same tread as Nokian Hakkapeliita tires.
-Not TPMS.
-balanced
$250 local pick up or can meet 1/2 way
Hankook Winter i*Pike W409 215/55/17 mounted on OEM Mazda 3 17" wheels
great winter setup. same tread as Nokian Hakkapeliita tires.
-Not TPMS.
-balanced
$250 local pick up or can meet 1/2 way
New Brakes Recommendation for DD and Light Track Use
My brakes are shot. The drag strips followed by U turns of Eagle's Canyon did them in. The Hawk HP Plus pads have crumbled, and the rotors need to be turned or replaced. I would like to use the opportunity to increase the heat capacity of the system as much as possible without stepping all the way up to a BBK. I want the stopping power to be very good while working in concert with ABS, so I don't want too much bite.
The car is used for about 6 track days per year, weekend cruising, and a trip to work and back here and there when the weather is nice. So, low dust and noise are desirable traits.
After some research, options seem to be:
Stoptech Sport Kit $570
EBC Stage 5 Kit $616
Power Stop Z26 Kit $321
Short of a kit, I can buy pads and rotors separately. In addition to the pads included above, I am thinking of:
Carbotech XP8
Hawk Street/Race
There are a lot of options for rotors, and most claim to be made to OEM specs, so it may not matter which ones I buy. Or it may make more sense to just have mine turned. I don't really care about slots and drilling.
Hawk Quiet Slot
Carbotech
Centric
etc.
So... What do you guys have experience with, and what do you recommend for my purposes? Do the kits above really have the potential (specifically the rotors) for better heat distribution? Why do I tend to doubt that?
The car is used for about 6 track days per year, weekend cruising, and a trip to work and back here and there when the weather is nice. So, low dust and noise are desirable traits.
After some research, options seem to be:
Stoptech Sport Kit $570
EBC Stage 5 Kit $616
Power Stop Z26 Kit $321
Short of a kit, I can buy pads and rotors separately. In addition to the pads included above, I am thinking of:
Carbotech XP8
Hawk Street/Race
There are a lot of options for rotors, and most claim to be made to OEM specs, so it may not matter which ones I buy. Or it may make more sense to just have mine turned. I don't really care about slots and drilling.
Hawk Quiet Slot
Carbotech
Centric
etc.
So... What do you guys have experience with, and what do you recommend for my purposes? Do the kits above really have the potential (specifically the rotors) for better heat distribution? Why do I tend to doubt that?
{WTB} Feeler 4 port plate set
Looking for a usable set of 4 port plates. No rush - curious if someone has some they want to get rid of.
{WTB} clutch + install
jeudi 23 octobre 2014
as the title states, i want to buy a new clutch kit for my 04.
i also do require install.
i live in the hamilton/ancaster area and am looking to get er' done asap.
i also do require install.
i live in the hamilton/ancaster area and am looking to get er' done asap.
Evap System
Hello.
I got a 06 mazda rx8 and just recentelly the CEL came on. I did a computerized engine analysis and came out the I have got to replace the canister purge solenoid.
Does anyone have some tutorials or instructions on how to replace the solenoid?
thanks
I got a 06 mazda rx8 and just recentelly the CEL came on. I did a computerized engine analysis and came out the I have got to replace the canister purge solenoid.
Does anyone have some tutorials or instructions on how to replace the solenoid?
thanks
Drive Shaft fitment?
Howdy!
Quick question, will a steel driveshaft from an automatic Rx8 fit on a manual?
Would go on an S2, coming from either series.
Thanks.
Quick question, will a steel driveshaft from an automatic Rx8 fit on a manual?
Would go on an S2, coming from either series.
Thanks.
{WTB} series 1 rear diff, Coilovers, cheap buckets
as the title says, im looking for a rear differential for my '04 rx8 track/drift car. Ive done a fair amount of research, but im having a hard time finding an open diff that i can weld and throw it in place of the factory LSD. I would weld a factory LSD butttttt, there isnt as much material to weld, and im afraid of the welds breaking and ruining my day......
Also looking for a set of "cheap-ish" used coilovers to replace the factory stock stuff, along with a set of racing buckets. can be in rough shape, i could care less. the cheaper the better. stock leathers dont offer enough support when at full lock doing 80.
im new to the forum and cant post on the canada board, this is why some of my points are posted here also lol..
cheers!
Also looking for a set of "cheap-ish" used coilovers to replace the factory stock stuff, along with a set of racing buckets. can be in rough shape, i could care less. the cheaper the better. stock leathers dont offer enough support when at full lock doing 80.
im new to the forum and cant post on the canada board, this is why some of my points are posted here also lol..
cheers!
245/45/18 tyres on an R3
I've inherited some 245/45/18 winter tyres (used on my brother's Jaguar XF). My aim is to sell them and buy some 225/45/18s for my R3 (I've got a set of 235/35/19 and 255/35/19 on rims for my Series1 project car).
However, as a back-up I'm tempted to fit them if I can't find any 225/45/18s at a reasonable price. I know that these tyres are the wrong size, I think I know all the potential pitfalls of fitting them and I've done a search of the site here and In the UK. A search showed that a few people have posted as fitting them without problems on Series 1s, but that may not be true for R3s and the latest post was 8 years ago.
Has anyone had any direct experience or knowledge of fitting 245/45/18 tyres on an R3? (please no comments on theory though, I've been through that).
However, as a back-up I'm tempted to fit them if I can't find any 225/45/18s at a reasonable price. I know that these tyres are the wrong size, I think I know all the potential pitfalls of fitting them and I've done a search of the site here and In the UK. A search showed that a few people have posted as fitting them without problems on Series 1s, but that may not be true for R3s and the latest post was 8 years ago.
Has anyone had any direct experience or knowledge of fitting 245/45/18 tyres on an R3? (please no comments on theory though, I've been through that).
Lean AFR @ WOT = mystery air leak
As the title suggests I am getting lean AFR's under throttle that suggest somehow there is a large amount of air that is getting in after the MAF, or the MAF is not working correctly. I did some logs and the MAF is only reading in the 150 range max. IIRC it should be a lot higher even for NA. the car is not registering any codes.
I have had my whole UIM off a few times over the last few months, first to diagnose and then swap the SSV solenoid and then to replace clutch master and slave cycinders. I am going to remove and reinstall the UIM this afternoon to make sure everything there is connected correctly and check the gaskets. Honestly the with the MAF reading being off by this much (40-50% if I remember correctly). I checked the Jet Air Bleed last night and it looks good in place. I will remove it and have a look if the UIM does not reveal a problem.
I have a few questions:
What should my MAF be reading (max range) under WOT?
Is there any other area to look for a leak (other than UIM and JAB)?
Would a failing MAF fit the bill for this and whouldn't that throw a code?
Same question for the primary O2 sensor?
Mods are listed in my sig. Anyone have an idea? Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks for reading.
I have had my whole UIM off a few times over the last few months, first to diagnose and then swap the SSV solenoid and then to replace clutch master and slave cycinders. I am going to remove and reinstall the UIM this afternoon to make sure everything there is connected correctly and check the gaskets. Honestly the with the MAF reading being off by this much (40-50% if I remember correctly). I checked the Jet Air Bleed last night and it looks good in place. I will remove it and have a look if the UIM does not reveal a problem.
I have a few questions:
What should my MAF be reading (max range) under WOT?
Is there any other area to look for a leak (other than UIM and JAB)?
Would a failing MAF fit the bill for this and whouldn't that throw a code?
Same question for the primary O2 sensor?
Mods are listed in my sig. Anyone have an idea? Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks for reading.
Any Rx8 Parts you Need This Store is Great!
Automotive Parts, Motorcycle Parts items in bluestarautomotives store on eBay!
We Have Had Great Reviews From Multiple Buyers about our Rx8 Products We currently have 4 in the shop we are getting two more. Red Grey Black And Blue We Are Getting A silver one and another red. we part them out please check our reviews. if there are any parts any one needs please call us at
770-974-1930
We offer free shipping on all of our parts all of them are OEM
BlueStar Automotives
located in acworth GA
We Have Had Great Reviews From Multiple Buyers about our Rx8 Products We currently have 4 in the shop we are getting two more. Red Grey Black And Blue We Are Getting A silver one and another red. we part them out please check our reviews. if there are any parts any one needs please call us at
770-974-1930
We offer free shipping on all of our parts all of them are OEM
BlueStar Automotives
located in acworth GA
{ FS } X Force catback exhaust, front leathers
Hey guys, New to the forum. Just acquired an '04 GT. Selling 2 all black leather buckets in mint condish, and an Xforce cat back exhaust. 3" stainless. Worth $1300 new plus tax, shipping etc from Australia. Anyone insterested?
Is it dead?
Just gonna be blunt about this, been away from the rotary world for a few years, and I really miss it. I would like to come back and pick up a nice used rx8 to sink some money into and have fun while doing it.
But since the no rotary cars have been produced for a while now, I wonder if there is still an after-market for these cars? Is tuning still available? I'm located in Tucson, AZ.
I love rotaries and these cars but I don't want to be fighting an uphill battle trying to find parts and support for moding a car that no longer has a big enough following for an aftermarket to follow.
Thanks.
But since the no rotary cars have been produced for a while now, I wonder if there is still an after-market for these cars? Is tuning still available? I'm located in Tucson, AZ.
I love rotaries and these cars but I don't want to be fighting an uphill battle trying to find parts and support for moding a car that no longer has a big enough following for an aftermarket to follow.
Thanks.
{WTB} Passenger Dash/Airbag w/no cracks!
mercredi 22 octobre 2014
Hey all, after 2 years of ownership I'm finally suffering the dreaded H-shape dash cracking on the passengers side in my 2006 GT. If anyone out there has a panel in good condition with no visible cracking, I'm willing to purchase! Otherwise I'm just going to have it wrapped in vinyl or something.
New to the Mazda world!
Alright hi everyone!
My name is Jaclyn, and I'm buying my first car... an rx8.
I don't know very much about rotary's I grew up around cars, but not these haha... I do however understand how cars work (I helped my ex build an evo 8 head swap on a 2.4l block) and the get general idea of how a rotary works.
I'd love to know more about what I'm getting into, I'm very familiar with the car scene. I used to go to meets all the time with my ex.
I'm hoping there's a few rx8s in the Seattle area who know alot about them and maybe we could have a meet? I'd like to see some other cars and get a little educated. Cars are something I really enjoy and this is a big branch out for me.
I hope I didn't post this in the wrong spot, and I know how people are please don't be rude to me.. I honestly just want to learn more about this car.
-thanks, jaclyn :)
My name is Jaclyn, and I'm buying my first car... an rx8.
I don't know very much about rotary's I grew up around cars, but not these haha... I do however understand how cars work (I helped my ex build an evo 8 head swap on a 2.4l block) and the get general idea of how a rotary works.
I'd love to know more about what I'm getting into, I'm very familiar with the car scene. I used to go to meets all the time with my ex.
I'm hoping there's a few rx8s in the Seattle area who know alot about them and maybe we could have a meet? I'd like to see some other cars and get a little educated. Cars are something I really enjoy and this is a big branch out for me.
I hope I didn't post this in the wrong spot, and I know how people are please don't be rude to me.. I honestly just want to learn more about this car.
-thanks, jaclyn :)
{WTB} OEM Base Front Lip Spoiler and Driver side exhaust shroud
Hey guys,
A wooden block plowed through my front black plastic lip spoiler today, and also took out my driver side exhaust shroud. If anyone has any of these parts i need to buy them ASAP!
Thanks.
A wooden block plowed through my front black plastic lip spoiler today, and also took out my driver side exhaust shroud. If anyone has any of these parts i need to buy them ASAP!
Thanks.
{WTB/WTT} Red/Black Leather AT Shift Knob
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy/trade a Red/Black leather shift **** for an Automatic, to match the rest of my interior. Can't find them online anymore because they're discontinued! Currently have a full black leather shift **** (oem accessory, not stock) for sale/trade.
{ FS } MISC parts new rear bumper
Have some misc parts left from my rx8
NEW un painted rear bumper, bought like 4 yrs ago but never used it. Don't have the box for it and been sitting under my deck. Probably a few scratches and nicks. $150 and could deliver to Chicago area sometime.
Stock 05 GT springs, Free can also deliver to Chicago area or you pay for shipping.
Have 4 stock wheels painted WB with TPMS on them. 1 has a huge crack and other has some rash. 2 are decent. No center caps $100OBO delivered to Chicago area.
Prices are OBO really just need the stuff gone. Could deliver with in 1-2 hours from Cedar Rapids IA. I do make occasional trips to Chicago so that could work for some. Maybe a little farther if you buy drinks! :smoker:
NEW un painted rear bumper, bought like 4 yrs ago but never used it. Don't have the box for it and been sitting under my deck. Probably a few scratches and nicks. $150 and could deliver to Chicago area sometime.
Stock 05 GT springs, Free can also deliver to Chicago area or you pay for shipping.
Have 4 stock wheels painted WB with TPMS on them. 1 has a huge crack and other has some rash. 2 are decent. No center caps $100OBO delivered to Chicago area.
Prices are OBO really just need the stuff gone. Could deliver with in 1-2 hours from Cedar Rapids IA. I do make occasional trips to Chicago so that could work for some. Maybe a little farther if you buy drinks! :smoker:
Metra 99-7510 for 04. NO SOUND. HELP
Tonight I installed a Pioneer single din into my 8 using Metra's kit (99-7510HG). Spliced the wires, hooked everything up. It all worked great until I tried to turn on the radio or plug in my phone. No sound what so ever coming out of any of the stock Bose speakers. Everything else works HVAC, display, lighting but no sound.
I honestly have no idea where to look for the problem. Fuses are good. I was searching around and I saw something about the stock Bose amp having compatibility issues with aftermarket radios and I saw suggestions about bypassing the amp and going straight to the speakers? Or is it just a power or remote wire that isn't in the right spot?
Does anyone have an accurate wiring diagram of the car's harness and of the Bose amp harness? In case I need to use a remote wire from there.
I've spent too much money and time to give up now! So I WILL OVERCOME... but I'll need some help. I about doused my car in gas and lit it on fire because it was so frustrating. anyways.
I know there's so many possibilities so suggest away! Thanks!
I honestly have no idea where to look for the problem. Fuses are good. I was searching around and I saw something about the stock Bose amp having compatibility issues with aftermarket radios and I saw suggestions about bypassing the amp and going straight to the speakers? Or is it just a power or remote wire that isn't in the right spot?
Does anyone have an accurate wiring diagram of the car's harness and of the Bose amp harness? In case I need to use a remote wire from there.
I've spent too much money and time to give up now! So I WILL OVERCOME... but I'll need some help. I about doused my car in gas and lit it on fire because it was so frustrating. anyways.
I know there's so many possibilities so suggest away! Thanks!
Time to introduce myslef...
Well I've been lurking on here for a while now, figure it was time to say hello... Name if Tj, had my RX-8 for a while now, had my first one back in 2004 brand new when I was 17 when I first joined the military and realized it was way more maintenance than I was ready for at that age, ten years later and a giant list of cars through my hands I have another,2004 GT velocity red, and im loving every minute of it. Glad I found this site though, learned a lot for you guys, ill post pictures when I get home from work...
{ FS } 2004 Mazda Rx8 GT 6MT with Factory Reman
For sale is a 2004 Mazda Rx8 GT 6MT with 135k miles. It has a documented Mazda installed remanufactured engine that was replaced at 92k miles. Transmission shift perfectly with no grinds. All driveline fluids changed within the last year. Great tread on almost new tires. I have done many "reliability upgrades" to this car such as an upgraded radiator, water pump, and thermostat, as well as some preventative maintenance like a new OE power steering harness for the all electric power steering. Racing Beat catback exhaust system (very subtle and quiet). AEM intake (same as Mazdaspeed). Power heated seats, leather interior, AUX input in center console. Replacement low mileage all black steering wheel. Starts as fast as any rotary engine I've ever seen or had. Great car, but no longer wish to have two vehicles. Located in Nashville, TN
Upgraded parts
Cooling:
-BHR (Black Halo Racing) Radiator ($525, manufactured by Griffin)
-REmedy water pump ($275, reduces cavitation at high rpm) http://ift.tt/1x8VeyY
-REmedy 170deg thermostat ($60, keeps RX8 in optimal cooling range) MAZMART - Serving The Mazda Community Since 1980. RX8 REMEDY Thermostat
-Beck/Arnley Green Coolant (OE supplier coolant, not Universal) ($30)
-RX8Performance metal undertray ($160, much stronger that OE plastic) http://ift.tt/1x8Vez1
Drivetrain:
-Differential - Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-90 Gear oil ($40)
-Transmission - Motocraft GL-4 XT-M5-QS manual transmission fluid ($45)
Maintenance:
-NGK plug wires changed within last year ($20)
-OE NGK plugs changed every 6 months ($60)
-Newest version PS harness ($100), known to corrode and cause power to stop working) http://ift.tt/12bvYyO
Engine:
-AEM Intake system ($400, exact same as Mazdaspeed) Mazda RX-8 Air Intake Systems - Performance Air Intakes
-RX8Performance motor mounts ($249, OE mounts do not last long) Motor Mounts by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com
Exhaust:
-Racing Beat catback Exhaust System ($650, very nice tone, not raspy) http://ift.tt/1x8Vf63
Fuel:
-09+ fuel pump assembly (better siphon design, less chance of running dry)
Brakes:
-All new Beck/Arnley rotors and brake pads
-ATE Superblue Fluid (high temp)
Wheels/Tires:
-18x9 +45 wheels with 225/45 tires
Should I get 17s or 18s? List what mods you have and wheel specs
Yup it's another indecisive thread about 17" vs 18" wheels. :dubs:
What am I looking for? The best performance wheel and tire set up for the track. Ideally I'd like to apply this thread to those with experience between BOTH diameters. I'd like an educated opinion for your recommendation for me and other drivers with similar intentions. So share your tire, wheel, and suspension modifications. And explain why you decided to use these parts and what results over the other.
:dragster: A little about me and my car. Since I bought my RX8 summer of 2013 I've managed to put about 4000 miles on my remanufactured motor. I currently have installed; Mugan rear chamber arms, Koni Yellow shocks, Mazdaspeed Springs, Hotchkis sway bars (F33,R21mm), Racing Beat end links and an upgraded underbody brace I suppose you could call a 12pt. I have some cheap 17x8 +42 MB wheels wrapped with some cheap 225/50 all seasons. I have a Honda Fit I daily so my RX8 is strictly for spirited driving ONLY. I am happy with how my suspension performs but there is always room for improvement. That being said i decided on some enkei wheels and Micheline PSS tires. I want the offset to stay as close to OEM for the best geometry results.
So let's get started,
RPF1 17x9+45 15.65 pounds
245/40R17 tire 23 pounds total weight of 38.65
OR
PF01 18x9+45 19.20 pounds
255/35R18 tire 25 pounds total weight of 44.20
Difference between 17" and 18" wheels with PSS tires is approximately 5.55 pounds
What am I looking for? The best performance wheel and tire set up for the track. Ideally I'd like to apply this thread to those with experience between BOTH diameters. I'd like an educated opinion for your recommendation for me and other drivers with similar intentions. So share your tire, wheel, and suspension modifications. And explain why you decided to use these parts and what results over the other.
:dragster: A little about me and my car. Since I bought my RX8 summer of 2013 I've managed to put about 4000 miles on my remanufactured motor. I currently have installed; Mugan rear chamber arms, Koni Yellow shocks, Mazdaspeed Springs, Hotchkis sway bars (F33,R21mm), Racing Beat end links and an upgraded underbody brace I suppose you could call a 12pt. I have some cheap 17x8 +42 MB wheels wrapped with some cheap 225/50 all seasons. I have a Honda Fit I daily so my RX8 is strictly for spirited driving ONLY. I am happy with how my suspension performs but there is always room for improvement. That being said i decided on some enkei wheels and Micheline PSS tires. I want the offset to stay as close to OEM for the best geometry results.
So let's get started,
RPF1 17x9+45 15.65 pounds
245/40R17 tire 23 pounds total weight of 38.65
OR
PF01 18x9+45 19.20 pounds
255/35R18 tire 25 pounds total weight of 44.20
Difference between 17" and 18" wheels with PSS tires is approximately 5.55 pounds
Cobb AP and Ext. warranty question
I looked around but could not find the answer I'm looking for. I can buy an Accessport from someone I know, my question is: since I still have 2 years on my ext warranty and want to keep it, is it to install the AP just for live data and data logging without messing with the ECU until I no longer need my warranty? I apologize if this thread isn't in the right place, just thought I might get more input here.
2004 idles low
mardi 21 octobre 2014
Idles at like 750 and kinda sputters. Only a problem when warm. 2004 manual 40k
Cobb AP and extended warranty question
I looked around but could not find the answer I'm looking for. I can buy an Accessport from someone I know, my question is: since I still have 2 years on my ext warranty and want to keep it, is there a way to install the AP just for live data and data logging without messing with the ECU until I no longer need my warranty?
adding 2 cycle engine oil to gas tank?
Does anybody do this? Im hoping it will smooth out my rough idle, only idles rough when engine is warm. Runs like a dream when its cold. Its a 2004 manual rx8 with 43k on it. I don't suspect plugs and coils because it only idles rough when warm. Was wondering if anyone puts 2 cycle engine oil in their gas tank? Or will that just screw everything up completely
Relieved
Hi , everyone im ordinary lol but i have been in love with rotary engines for a long time ever since fast and the furus back in 07 with doms rx7 now thag im of age to get a well my first car the first thing i went to was a rx8 now after reading up on the car i found it had engine problems such as flooding and compression loss etc etc like ive literally studdied this car for a whole week day in day put and found out it was as smple as a better starter , amore powerful ignition system pretty much sold me :) i will be getting a rx8 in 3 months thanks to the rx8 club of cpurse for "enlightening" me !! Seriously thank u guys :)
Temp Sensor and Fuel Mix
Here's the question, will a faulty coolant temp switch cause the ECM to 1) Increase fuel richness, particularly on cold start. 2) Cause the oil injection rate to increase. 3) Increase the load on the CAT (and eventual failure). 4) Cause rich-running, and white smoke on hard accel. and cold decel. And white smoke on cold start.
Thanks
Thanks
stft ltft and maf scaling help needed.
Ok I have about 3 decent length datalogs. And on 2 of those at idle I'm at 7gs. And I know the recommended is 5.5 but on my last log. I'm right around 5.45-5.6 at 800-850 rpm. So shook I adjust my scaling or leave it be ?
Also on my stft and ltft I'm in the 22 and -22 range to me this doesn't sound right , isn't it supposed to be closer to 0 ? And my air/fuel is around 14.6. Which sounds ok
Also on my stft and ltft I'm in the 22 and -22 range to me this doesn't sound right , isn't it supposed to be closer to 0 ? And my air/fuel is around 14.6. Which sounds ok
Rx8 cosmo fuel issue
Hi guys need some advise , my rx8 got a new cosmo 13b conv with somthing like a t67 turbo , the fuel pump is already a aromotive 340l/m pump but it look to small when i go into boost 1bar it starts running lean is there and mods that needs to happen with the feul pump catridge ? Somebody mentioned pop release must also be modified ? :wallbash:
Rx8 cosmo feul issue
Hi guys need some advise , my rx8 got a new cosmo 13b conv with somthing like a t67 turbo , the fuel pump is already a aromotive 340l/m pump but it look to small when i go into boost 1bar it starts running lean is there and mods that needs to happen with the feul pump catridge ? Somebody mentioned pop release must also be modified ? :wallbash:
Starting AutoX after the winter.
I have done some reading and found that AutoX seems to be a fairly cheap and fun hobby. I have always loved my cars and enjoyed playing around on the road but I think its time to be more responsible and do it on a closed track.
I would like to hear from an experienced AutoXer on their experiences and what I should know going into this adventure.
Also I would like some information on alignments and suspension... something dumbed down. I know a little bit about cars, im no master mechanic but I have done alot of the work myself to my cars.
I dont understand alot of the termonology when people talk about camber, and alignment termenology.
I can always wiki the temonology but my brain will probably explode with all the information in there.
As I am just starting should I just get a regular alignment and not worry about this?
I would like to hear from an experienced AutoXer on their experiences and what I should know going into this adventure.
Also I would like some information on alignments and suspension... something dumbed down. I know a little bit about cars, im no master mechanic but I have done alot of the work myself to my cars.
I dont understand alot of the termonology when people talk about camber, and alignment termenology.
I can always wiki the temonology but my brain will probably explode with all the information in there.
As I am just starting should I just get a regular alignment and not worry about this?
Cheap Cats / Catalytic Converters for NC inspection
lundi 20 octobre 2014
Hey guys, my cat finally died on me but I am overdue for an inspection. In my county in NC, it is a plug and play emissions inspection. So long as the Readiness is there, the car will pass (one may fail on 2004 models but Evap never completes before Catalyst). I keep getting a P0420. I replaced the up and downstream 02 sensors as part of maintenance last year but the cat has 140K on it now so I am pretty sure she is tired. I just bought a midpipe to replace the cat pipe (FLAMES YO!) but I need to pass inspection before I swap it in. I have found some super cheap Ebay cats for around $150. I doubt they would last very long but I only need about 60 - 100 miles or so to click by so the catalyst check completes. Sometimes less.
Has anyone else tried them? Even the Magnaflow model isn't a bad deal but I know they don't last so well either. The main thing is to get the car to pass then slip the catless pipe in and I am good for another year.
I have considered the RP supercat but have heard mixed things about it. And an OEM cat is a minimum $1,000 and it climbs from there. The car is barely worth $4,000 now. I searched around for cat info but couldn't find anything where people had used cheap cats as temporary passing parts. Anyone have any thoughts?
Ironic, if I lived in the next county, it would only need basic safety inspection. -__-
Has anyone else tried them? Even the Magnaflow model isn't a bad deal but I know they don't last so well either. The main thing is to get the car to pass then slip the catless pipe in and I am good for another year.
I have considered the RP supercat but have heard mixed things about it. And an OEM cat is a minimum $1,000 and it climbs from there. The car is barely worth $4,000 now. I searched around for cat info but couldn't find anything where people had used cheap cats as temporary passing parts. Anyone have any thoughts?
Ironic, if I lived in the next county, it would only need basic safety inspection. -__-
Oil Metering Pump issues
Hey everyone,
My RX-8 started to have issues last week with a my CEL light coming on and I brought it to a shop and had the mechanic read the code.
It came back with P1688 and he suspected the sensor being faulty. I have oil pressure as the gauge on the dashboard shows.
I ran into limp mode a couple days ago and I also have read all these threads about this issue.
http://ift.tt/1whbMW6
http://ift.tt/1whbK0y
I had the CEL cleared and it hasn't showed up yet but if it does what should I do? Would I need to reset the switch as per the other threads? Could there be any other underlying issues with this?
Thanks in advance everyone
My RX-8 started to have issues last week with a my CEL light coming on and I brought it to a shop and had the mechanic read the code.
It came back with P1688 and he suspected the sensor being faulty. I have oil pressure as the gauge on the dashboard shows.
I ran into limp mode a couple days ago and I also have read all these threads about this issue.
http://ift.tt/1whbMW6
http://ift.tt/1whbK0y
I had the CEL cleared and it hasn't showed up yet but if it does what should I do? Would I need to reset the switch as per the other threads? Could there be any other underlying issues with this?
Thanks in advance everyone
Hot start issue, and another concern
I am pretty new here. I have been reading a lot of posts, but haven't commented or started any threads of my own until now. I just got my 2005 RX-8 in July (traded a kid straight across for my bad tranny BMW, hoping I got the better end of the deal. Now Im not so sure). When I got the car, the kid I got it from told me the starter was going out. My car was not included in the few 05's with the recalled starter that Mazda replaced. I don't know any of the history on the car whatsoever. I never noticed long, cold starts until I watched everyone's videos with their upgraded starters and 1 second starts. My cold start is 3 or 4 seconds maybe, but it starts on the first try every time. On hot starts, sometimes it can take up to 8-10 seconds to start, sometimes it wont start at all. I have watched video after video on bad starters and have noticed the same thing in every one of them. The RPM gauge acts different than mine does, and I am hoping someone has an explanation (please bear with me, I don't know a whole lot about cars, and I am a girl :wink2:). It seems like everyone's RPM gauge stays on 0 when they are having a long start. My gauge goes up to maybe 500 RPMs. If my car is going to start, the gauge will stay there until the car starts. If it is not going to start, the gauge will drop back down. There are a couple other issues I have noticed with my car: my idle drops when I am in drive, but sitting at a stop light, and my car vibrates. The RPMs drop to about 800-850, then they come back up to around 900-950. The only other issue I can think of is the other day, I backed out of my driveway and as I was backing up, the car stopped suddenly, as if someone slammed on the brakes. It did it twice (and scared the crap out of me). What would cause this?!? Any advice is much appreciated! Thank you.
{ FS } 6 speed trans oil metering pump engine parts
i have a 05 6-speed trans 400 60k miles on it was told it was fine never used it shipping it would be 125 ups ground
got a omp with lines 100
upper and lower intake with all actuators etc 125
upper lower fuel rail with all injectors 125
alternator 25
also have some 6-port engine parts
engine rotors good rotor bearings 100 each
e-shaft 75
engine plates all 3 with no side plate rotor contact surface look decent no side seal grooving 125 each
rotor housings some flaking ok for budget 50 each
high power stat gears bearing look ok 75 for front and rear
oil pan clean inside no dents 30
best to email me usedcarpartss@aol.com
got a omp with lines 100
upper and lower intake with all actuators etc 125
upper lower fuel rail with all injectors 125
alternator 25
also have some 6-port engine parts
engine rotors good rotor bearings 100 each
e-shaft 75
engine plates all 3 with no side plate rotor contact surface look decent no side seal grooving 125 each
rotor housings some flaking ok for budget 50 each
high power stat gears bearing look ok 75 for front and rear
oil pan clean inside no dents 30
best to email me usedcarpartss@aol.com
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