Power loss and shut down at higher rpm

Alright, I've got an RX-8 with a ~40k mile reman in it that has fairly low compression. I had it tested at a dealer a few months ago, and they gave me low 6's on both rotors, at 195 rpm (horrible starter). So this isn't too bad, and up until today it was perfectly driveable, smooth rpm, no problems getting to 9.5k rpm, decent power levels, etc.



Today, I was driving back from Houston to Austin, got stuck in traffic for around an hour, so I ended up sitting between 1-2k rpm for about an hour. After this, the car twice shut down when hitting higher rpm. So it would go up smoothly until 6-7k, then major power loss for a few seconds (gas pedal does almost nothing) and rpm drops, followed by complete shut down of the engine (battery light comes on). The engine will not start again immediately. Both times I managed to get it to start later without any issues, once after 30 minutes of letting it sit, the next time after 5 minutes. The second shut down was after another 1.5 hours of driving, but I kept the rpm around 4k that whole time, as I was just cruising.



So the real question is, could this problem merely be low compression? Or is there something else going on here? If it's only low compression, why was the car fine until today? Also there is still excellent power levels at lower-mid rpm, as I had no issues cruising between 4-5k. And why would the car actually shut down but have no more trouble starting?



Ignition system was replaced by Mazda dealer with stock components in March I believe. I don't have a catalytic converter. My check engine light is unfortunately covered up by the previous owner and I have not been able to get into the dash to fix it. In any case it's probably on due to the cat. So I don't have any ideas on the codes.



Thanks guys, I really appreciate any guidance here before I ask a mechanic to diagnose, and they will almost certainly only recommend an engine replacement.

How to Straighten Fins on the Oil Coolers??

So, as I've said in other posts I pretty much replaced all the major components of my car (tranny, engine, clutch, slave/master etc.). My oil coolers look like they've seen their fair share of rocks and debris and over half of them are bent closed. I just wondered if there's a good tool to use to open them all back up? Like I guess I could use a screwdriver or something to that affect I was just curious if people had other suggestions. I plan to get the oil cooler screens immediately afterwards so I don't have to repeat this procedure.

Here's a picture of what one of them looks like, the other looks the same.

:banghead:

{ FS } Greddy Turbo kit, Vertex bumper, Volk wheels, Powertrix coilovers and more.

Aftermarket parts for sale..



Pickup is free obviously or buyer pays shipping. Message me if interested and I can give more details or pictures of anything you may need.



Thanks.







Greddy turbo kit with many extras $3500



Full Greddy turbo kit around 2500 miles on the kit before the car was put in storage for over a year then taken apart. Turbo has no damage or shaft play, would build and hold boost perfectly. Came off fully working. Was pulled off with all vacuum lines / brackets / any other parts needed to install and run, this is 100% bolt on and drive setup, only missing a tuning device. All piping powder coated black and high heat treated turbo manifold / turbo hot side / downpipe.



The kit also comes with many extras,

1. Braided SS oil feed line


2. AEM cold air intake


3. HKS blow off valve


4. Triple Gauge pod


5. AEM Wideband gauge


6. Boost gauge


7. Oil pressure gauge with sender


8. Greddy turbo timer


9. Greddy boost controller


10. Ashtray modified for the turbo timer and boost controller

Greddy Performance oil pan $275



Good condition only used while the turbo kit was on. 2500 miles.















Work Emotion xt7 chrome with tires $1500



Full set of Work Emotion xt7 chrome wheels with tires. 1 tires seems to be flat spotted from sitting. Has a slight bump when running your hand over the tire.















Authentic Vertex Lang rear bumper $750



Authentic Vertex Lang rear bumper in great shape, some paint scuffs and dirty in the pics.

















PowerTrix Race coilovers $750



Full set of good condition Powertrix coilovers. No problems and have the rear adjuster extensions.



















Exoticspeed catback dual exhaust + Exoticspeed midpipe $650



Good condition no problems. Sounds good.















K&N ram air intake $200















Both sunvisors with LCD screens installed with wiring $150



This isnt my doing, were on the car when I originally bought it. Wiring goes through the mount so is clean in that point but the adhesive used to install and the cut isnt perfect. Not my thing but sure someone else wants them.

How to UnF*ck the Oil Coolers??

So, as I've said in other posts I pretty much replaced all the major components of my car (tranny, engine, clutch, slave/master etc.). My oil coolers look like they've seen their fair share of rocks and debris and over half of them are bent closed. I just wondered if there's a good tool to use to open them all back up? Like I guess I could use a screwdriver or something to that affect I was just curious if people had other suggestions. I plan to get the oil cooler screens immediately afterwards so I don't have to repeat this procedure.

Here's a picture of what one of them looks like, the other looks the same.

:banghead:

Reinforced My Clutch Pedal and Now Problems...

As the title states I recently crushed my clutch pedal to the floor. After which I took it out welded the **** out of it and also welded the metal around the spring attachments as it was starting to push through. Consequently I also replaced my whole engine, transmission, clutch, master and slave cylinder at the same time.

No joke.

So everything is re-installed and works pretty good. I didn't notice much of a problem right away because I was breaking the new clutch in (keeping it under 4500 rpms).

Lately I've been redlining her once in a while to see how she handles now that I've put over 1000 clicks on her. I had started to get aggravated cause the pedal felt a little light to begin with and kinda wishy washy with when their would be resistance. I just chalked this up to the lightweight flywheel and new clutch (HD Stage One). This is where the problem starts.



I redline it in 2nd or 3rd and when I clutch in and shift up the clutch pedal sticks in the clutch point. Not necessarily on the floor... but pretty close. It sticks so much that when the car is shifted into the next up gear (or I think it is) I go to give it gas and it revs because the clutch is still disengaged due to the pedal being stuck. Once the rpms drop or I nudge it with my toe it seems to come free. After I did this once I also began to notice a noise all the time whenever I press the clutch pedal in. (Video Below). It sort of sounds like a pop can being crushed, or a weird dull scrapy squeal. I tried adjusting the stroke length making it a bit longer and I looked at the assembly and it all looks fine.



MY question is, could it be the bracing in the master cylinder (the welds or whatever holds the master cylinders bolt to the fire wall)? Or maybe it's my clutch pedal spring or something? Should I keep trouble shooting or just shell out for a new clutch pedal assembly? I posted the video of the sound below.

Photobucket (Videos)

Photobucket (Videos)

Hylomar Racing

For water jacket O-rings: use Hylomar Racing? or another product to keep orings in place?





For oil control O-rings on rotor: same question as above





Thanks

fuel pump/filter

Ive been having some power loss and stalling issues and I suspect my fuel pump needs replacing. I have a 2004 8 with about 120,000 miles. I changed my spark plugs, wires, and coils. I also cleaned sensors and checked the fuses. I can hear my fuel pump cut on when the ignition is in the ON position. I want to be sure my pump is the problem before I put the money and effort into replacing it. I wanted to check the fuel filter, but am not sure where it is located/how to get to it. Could anyone lend me a hand here?

Sheared off Ignition Coil bolt

I am going to start searching after I post this as I am panicking currently. While replacing my ignition coils I was securing the new set on when I sheared the threading off of the plate/tray that hold the ignition coil. The bolt I was putting back on was the original and was rusted so it wasn't going on smoothly.



Is the contact between the ignition coil and that plate imperative? Can I run with one just a little loose in the mean time?



Edit:

Searching would of been faster than typing this:



http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech...ptions-243789/

horrendous gas mileage...

So, obviously i am aware of the fact that rx8's dont have the greatest fuel consumption as other cars.



but i get about 160 KILOMETERS per tank.... i only redline it in first gear maybe twice to three times a day otherwise im being forced to shift at 5k rpms to try and savor fuel.



ive already read threads of the average person getting 250-300kms per tank which is why i'm dumbfounded by my mileage. i just bought the car a month ago and am yet to change the plugs coils and wires but i guess my question is will that really give me an extra 100kms per tank..? already cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced air filter as well as cleaned the intake. didnt really help at all. :banghead:

Power loss / Engine rough at 1000 to 2000 rpm

Hi,



Engine idles it would seem OK but once start to move off car engine lacks power, engine rough, feel the uneven power with hand on the manual gear shift stick also. The problem between 1000 and 2000 rpm.



When engine cold it fires up no problem because extra fuel being put into the engine but on a warm start need to turn over a few times.



Coils and Plugs relatively new. Once driving everything seems OK. Surprised no engine management light on yet!



Appreciate help on this. Thanks

My Rx8 won't Start after Flywheel/Clutch install

Hi guys, I've been trying to find answers to my problem but haven't had any luck.



I recently took on a DIY project after my clutch went to ****. I purchased and installed RacingBeats Aluminum Flywheel, and Exedy stage 1 clutch kit. I messed up my pilot bearing seal so I ordered a new one from pineapple racing.



Today I was able to man handle the transmission on forcefully because I am limited on tools and a tranny jack is on the list of tools I do not have. I put everything together and gave it a start. At first try it sounded like it wanted to turn but quit and started to make the clicking sound. I thought maybe the battery died so I gave it a jump and tried again. Over and over all I heard was a clicking sound. I know I had good charge so I have no idea what it could be.



I also took the starter back off to see if the teeth just didnt align but I don't think that was the problem. I couldn't move the flywheel and clutch much through the service hole with a screw driver so I'm not sure if that means anything. Please and thank u for the help. This is really frustrating the **** outta me.

04 mazda rx8 cutting out when low revs!! help!!

Hey people im new to the rx8 owned one for the past month or so i have an 04 plate and it has 46000 miles on it! i noticed it had the well known hot start problem it started ok (ish) when cold, i had a look online and thought i would change the starter motor which i successfully did today now the car starts fine when hot or cold but when i drive and then come to slow down at a round about or junction the car will stall... im thinking about buying a new battery as the one in it looks old but i dont know if that will fix the issue, if anyone knows what it could be your help would be greatly appreciated!! thanksssss :)

oem seat cover is $1000???

I just want to replace the leather part on the bottom part of the driver's seat. I think the mazda oem part number is FE0288161A02.



How in the world can it cost between $680 ~ $1000? And it doesn't seem like anyone else made an aftermarket "oem-ish" alternative for, oh I don't know.. $50?



I guess I don't understand the economics of this one. Am I the only one who messed up his seat and wants to fix it?



I'll admit I don't know the first thing about upholstery, in cars, couches, or anywhere else. Guess I need to get a sewing machine...



Anyone else been through this?

High idle after tun up, Throttle body cleaning

I replaced coils today ,new plugs , new plug wires , Took throttle body off and cleaned that .

I noted a big difference in quality of coils. Old coils were aluminum interior contacts as compared to Coils from advance auto as recommenced here .

I sure stars easier and can tell a difference in power . !!!

How idle is about 1200 -900 rpm .... on the high side ?

After cleaning throttle body butterfly valve would not completely close on its on ???

Any ideas !!!!

2009 Rx8 Replaced Main Fuel sending unit, wont start.

New to forum, and decided to work on problem myself. My gas gauge was not reading correct amount of fuel in fuel tank, I actually ran out of gas a couple times. I could put a couple gallons of gas in tank and car would start back up. I decided to work on this myself, removed and tested both Main and Sub sending units. Turned out to be the "main" so I replaced it and now correct amount of fuel in tank is showing on fuel gauge. Problem is car will not turn over now. I put everything back together in reverse order, made sure all wires were connected. I can turn the key and hear the fuel pump kick in but car will not start. What am I missing, thought it would start right up. Do you need to prime the pump or do anything else to the pump or fuel lines once the pump has been removed and put back in.





Any assistance would be very much appreciated.





Walt

High idle after tun up, Trottle body cleaning .

I replaced coils today ,new plugs , new plug wires , Took throttle body off and cleaned that .

I noted a big difference in quality of coils. Old coils were aluminum interior contacts as compared to Coils from advance auto as recommenced here .

I sure stars easier and can tell a difference in power . !!!

How idle is about 1200 -900 rpm .... on the high side ?

After cleaning throttle body butterfly valve would not completely close on its on ???

Any ideas !!!!

{WTB} clutch kit for 04 rx8

im looking for an oem or stage 1 clutch kit for my rx8

im located in toronto and would prefer the part be avliable for local pick up



thanks

{WTB} White Front Left Driver's Side Fender

I'm looking to buy a white front left, driver's side fender in good shape.



Pm me or reply to this thread with any helpful hints.

{ FS } Midland, TX - BHR Ignition setup

I've got a BHR Ignition setup that is blue wires with brushed bracket and plugs. We bought it last year around this time for future maintenance, but recently traded the RX8 off. They've never been installed, are still in the box I received them in, which I only opened to rob the stickers and make sure they sent the right stuff.



We all know that they go for $580 shipped to your door, so I'm willing to take $550 for them shipped. 30 bucks is 30 bucks haha..



I only accept PayPal and prefer text as a means of communication (432-425-1085). My job doesn't allow me to sleep that much, so feel free to text me at any time. If I don't respond immediately, it'll probably only be a couple hours before I wake up, and will get back with you when I'm coherent enough to operate a phone.



Don't have any pictures right now, but they all look the same, and I can take a selfie with them if someone needs validation.

Radiator Help

Just a quick question, would a radiator from a series 2 fit into the series 1? Just wondering since a mate of mine has a fairly new series 2 radiator sitting around and mine needs replacing sometime in the near future.

Cheers, Dillon.

New Member Need Major Help

hi i recently purchased a 05 mazda rx-8 an month ago and the car shutoff on me two days after i bought it, ppl have told me it was the starter so i went and got a new starter...the car started and no less than 10 miles it cuts off on me again when i come to a complete stop at a light. i bought new fuses for the ignition and relay but still it doesnt start! i have jumped this car multiple times and it doesnt get a charge unless i use the jumpbox but after the jumpbox if im not revving the car its dies again! like the cars battery is getting drained!



i got my battery checked its good

starters good

altenators good

fuel pump ive been told is good

idk whats draining the battery like this



some say bad grounding but idk where to start looking!

what could be the cause of my car not starting!

Noise and Confusion about Tranny brace

To make a long story short, my veh hit a cinder block at 55mph and it did a number on the underside of my veh. Body shop had to replace the entire front sub-frame with a used one and a number of other components. The veh has been making a clanking/ clunk sound when hitting bumps or during slightly more aggressive starts from a stand still. I have dealt with this type of noise a lot through ym car years and my first instinct is loose subframe, control arm, or sway bar end link. The veh went to the shop twice and both times I have been told everything is tight. I wanted to be sure so I checked myself, and indeed everything is tight. At this point I am annoyed because it was not there before. I have a very close relationship with the shop, so they let me look into and do some research with them.



Since the repair 1 thing has changed on the car. There is a center brace that runs under the tranny across the tunnel that was damaged. it got replaced so no worries except that the new piece came with a big long bolt in it. the piece on my car did not have this. photos below













This bolt passes through the brace and touches the drive shaft frame. The dealer calls it a tranny mount, but it doesn't thread into anything. It just touches the frame, almost as if to align it. I removed the bolt and my noises have seemed to go away on the few tests drives I have done. This is good, but it has me a little concerned as this seems to support the entire center portion of the tranny. I bought the car used and this is my first RX8, so I have no idea what is supposed to be there or not. All I know is that it wasn't there on my original piece and the brand new dealer piece came with it.



Is anyone familiar with this item? Is it supposed to be there? If so why is it making noise? Something else missing?



Any help would be greatly appreciated. I race/track this veh a lot, so I want to make sure all mounts are correct.

Driving another manual daily - Will it affect my shifting in the 8?

I've been considering getting a 5-speed ford ranger as a daily/beater, especially for the winter, and was wondering if I'll get too used to shifting in that and lose my "Magic touch" in the 8. I've been driving the 8 daily for years, and everything else has been automatic trans. Do any of you drive another manual car on the daily, and does it affect your abilities in the 8?



Let me know what you think! Thanks.

New proud owner and member.

Well hello there I'm ash, from Derby (UK)



I Wanted an rx8 from the day I passed my test but due to high insurance I was forced to wait a few years. Anyway 3 months ago I came across the car of my dreams for only a grand. I had to buy it. 2004 plate full service history and ran perfectly as far as I know. Apart from it doing less than 20 miles for a tenner I love it. I suppose that's the price u Pay for the privilege of driving one.



Just fitted myself a universal central locking, alarm and remote starter system which was a challenge within itself as there's little out on the net for fitting them so it's been a solo mission.



Anyway nice to meet all you fellow owners.

Manual transmission - clutch hard to disengage

I performed the slave cylinder recall last year as I was grinding going into 4th gear This is just at the track after the car warmed up. Street driving was fine.

I don't speed shift the car btw.

Anyhow this season it came back. Only the 4th gear crunching after a few hot laps.

Had my mechanic rebuild both slave and master before going back to Summit Point.

New AmsOil in the box so I am good to go.

No such luck. Same 4th gear crunch!

This is getting annoying as I typically stop driving the car at the event and take it home. Trying to minimize abuse as much as possible. Shortening three track events for me is tough to take.

So I guess if it was not the 4th gear syncro before it is now.

Bought a new S2 trans from Mazda comp.

I will put it in over the winter.

Still concerned about the hydraulics though.

I have a SS clutch line and use a speed bleeder.

I got a light wt flywheel Stage 2 clutch, AF shifter.

Always shifted nicely otherwise

Symptoms sounds very much like the recall notice.

Anyone else experience these problems?

{WTB} Damaged/Paper Weight Engine rotor

Seeing if anyone has any old rotors laying around I could use as a paper weight decoration. Obviously it doesn't have to work so I won't buy good rotors unless they're free. I'm not looking to spend much of anything, but I'll pay shipping.



Thanks!

Popping after accelerating to high RPM to a cruise

Couldn't think of a better title, anyway I recently bought a used 2005 Mazda Rx8 with ~78k miles. So far it's been great and I've had to do a few little DIY things. Today on my way home from work I noticed a popping sound sort of like something was either dragging or bouncing around in the exhaust. It seemed to only happen after I punch it and let off the gas so I don't go over the speed limit (I do this often and this is the first time I've noticed it) so I took a 30 minute detour (probably not the smartest thing) to try and hear the sound again and I can confirm that it only happens after I punch it (driving it easy doesn't cause the noise) So on my last run of trying to hear the sound (trying to pinpoint it) I heard an awful ripping sound, I almost thought it might have been the belt. but it sounded more exterior then interior (i'm not ruling out the possibility of it being inside the engine) So my reason for making this post is to see if anyone has had anything similar happen or if someone can point me in the right direction because I don't want to run it with the possibility of damaging something more then it already has.



I should note:



I have the 4spd Auto and have been playing around with the tiptronic feature recently, the other day I fishtailed on accident and now i'm in love with RWD and its' possibilities. (I should also note this is my first car) so It's safe to say I've been driving it less then ideally I've been getting around 10mpg, roughly. Anyway my reasoning for mentioning this is my tires, they're pretty bad, I am definitely getting new tires soon but the rear right tire is an oddball. So I am thinking my recent driving behaviour could have ruined the already worn tires. I don't know much about tires in general but aesthetically they look fine but i'm really hoping the ripping sound and potentially even the popping sound came from the same place, if not I could have 2 completely separate problems on my hands. Any advice would be great, thanks.



P.S the car drives good, accelerates good, and generally sounds good when revving it's just the popping that happens after, now that I think of it, it could be misfiring? Thanks again.





TL;DR Popping sound after accelerating to a high rpm and completely taking foot off the gas to slow down to a more reasonable speed. Ripping occurred on last run thus scaring me enough to finally make an account on here and post this thread.

simple question and and answer

what brand of premix do you use? i dont need to know why you use it,or choose it. just the brand, that is all ! thanks john.

Some people shouldn't drive in snow!

I'm a new member and owner and already had some one trying to take one of our beloved 8's off the road. Got hit in the rear and shoved into curb hard enough to crack my front rim and curb rear pretty bad.Set off side airbags, traction control isn't working right.One of the first snowfalls other driver said they tried to stop. I'm sure this isn't going to be a cheap trip to Mazda at least they had insurance. Anyone got a ballpark figure on the (3) passenger side airbags cost?

I'm going to have them check front suspension since it hit hard enough to crack the rim.

Not a good start to a 4 day weekend!

OEM Navigation 2014 update DVD

Hello!!!



Just wanted to share with ya all that you can use VOLVO RTI mmm2 2014 DVD in your stock RX-8 navigation unit.



Cheers!

{ FS } OEM sideskirts, mudflaps, omp adaptor kit

For sale I have a few parts.



First off I have an oil metering pump adaptor+installation support kit. Includes everythign you need to run 2 stroke oil injection. Bought them both this spring and never got around to installing them so they've been sitting in the garage ever since. $150 shipping included



1 set of stock sideskirts+rear mudflaps in silver. $100 shipped



chrome front emblem cover. $25 shipped



Would also consider trading for a midpipe. BHR, racing beat, might consider a stock gutted cat. Will update thread with pictures when I get a chance. Easiest way to contact me is through email since I am not on here very often to check my PM's.



matthewreedswims@gmail.com

Dash Lights Illuminated But No Loss Of Power

So the first drive after installing wheel spacers, all my dash lights illuminated but the car has NO loss of power. I don't think it should have anything to do with the wheel spacers but it's a crazy coincidence. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Here's a picture

Halp please - engine bogging.

Summary-

-On acceleration, the car bogs down horribly (loss of power, vibration, exhaust sounds changes).

-Only happens on full tip-in of throttle - can drive semi normally if only using about 10% throttle.

-When it happens the CEL flashes but then goes back to solid.





Related notes based on searching forum-

-No coolant light, no coolant leakage issues that I know of.

-Cat was replaced with high-flow about a year ago.

-New plugs, wires, and coils in the last 1.5 years.

-ExoticSpeed R1T exhaust, AEM intake with New filter in last year.

-Car has 80k miles, manual trans.



Any help would be really great before Chicago winter comes full force!!:scared:

New owner in need of help!

Ive been the proud owner of my rx-8 now for two days. Its a 2005 6mt. I decided the first issue I wanted to tackle was the airbag light. I checked the harnesses under the front seats. Both were missing. The wires were torn out of the drivers side harness, but I found the wires under the carpet. I can solder those or replace the pins in the harness no problem. My issue lies with the passenger side. I cannot find the wires or plug for the airbag under the carpet! They seem to be missing! I took out the back seat to search for the wires, but I couldn't feel anything. There are some wires under the back seat, maybe two of these are for the passenger airbag system? I'm just not sure. My next step is to remove the console and try to find them that way. Anyone have any info? Do the pass airbag wires run to the front or back of the car? What colors are they? Any idea why the harness might seem to be missing? Thanks in advance!



Mason

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Independent Ride height and Spring Preload adjust-ability

Rebuild-able/Replaceable Premium mono-tube forge steel strut Body

(Complete All for Corners) Front and Rear Pillow ball upper mounts

15 way strut damper adjustments

Rear adjuster extensions included for easy adjust-ability

Anti-Corrosive Zinc Plated Damper Housings (New for 2014)

(PPI) Polymer Plastic Injected dust boots (New for 2014)

Select-able Spring Rate options: (standard 9k/6k, 10k,7k, 11k,8k)

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4. Extremely light weight to reduce sprung weight increasing over all agility.

{ FS } 2005 6 speed trans w/ AF shifter

'05 6 speed with axial flow shifter.

36,600 miles

Only used Amsoil in it.

I have a S2 trans that I will be swapping out.

Trans is still in the car and can be test driven.

looking to get $1000.00

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6years of ownership. Great car overall, but with problems

Hi all.



I just feel like to share my experiences with S1 and S2.



I had S1 05 GT 6spd for about 4 years. (bought it used with 30k miles)



This was my first car I bought, first sports car, as well as first manual car.



Learning how to drive a manual was probably one of the best thing I've ever done in my life.



When I got the car, I did my homework so managed to not flood it at all. (no short trips)



The car just feels so good to drive it around, especially quiet and not so traffic heavy roads.



It may not have that straightline acceleration that other competitors have, but it has very forgiving nature (noob friendly) with decent amount of power.



Some problems I've encountered with S1 05 GT are:

1. Clutch squeak - fortunately it did not break while I owned it.



2. Broken engine mount - stealership ripped me off by not notifying me that I was able to get it replaced under warranty (mazda in cerritos area). Later I got the money back.



3. Engine compression going low- barely passed test...according to stealership. Inorder to get the replacement engine under warranty, compression must be under 5.8 or so(cant remember exact number), and mine was about 6.1

Still, the car had only 60K miles on it at that time, was only 5 years old.

Although warranty backed it for 8yrs 100k miles, living with fear of engine failure for a car that is only 5 yrs old? hmm...



4. expensive parts and maintenance costs- this is to be expected with sports car. But could be problematic for people with tight buget.



5. starter gone bad - another common problem with S1. replaced with AT starter. This also should NOT happen to a 5 years old car.



6. relatively high insurance cost - (relatively) young male driver with 1 ticket record = $300+/month or $2600/yr to be insured.



To sum it up, I had mostly powertrain related issues with S1 05 model.



After all that hassle, I moved on to S2 09 Touring 6spd about 2 years ago.

I did consider getting other cars such as used wrx/sti, new speed 3, used mustang gt but they just did not appeal to me.

Notably, mustang had too much body roll and it was just too heavy, which ruined my high expectation about iconic American muscle.

In defense of mustang, it did have great power. Unbeatable in that price range.



So I ended up with rx8 again; got used S2 with 22k miles.

I just loved this car too much to get other car.

My justifications were: there are no other cars around in this price range with 4 doors + rwd fun + handling capability + high revvying engine (very important).

Also, 09 model came with aux port which I always wanted.



I could say many issues related with drivability are resolved so far.

S2 even prevents you from doing over rev with 3 level limiter while engine is cold. (5k, 7k, then normal 9k)

No rough idle unlike my failing S1 engine, just occasional misfire can be felt.



But here comes catch.

Problems during my 2yrs of ownership with S2 (now at 51K miles):



1. Audio is gone - Bose system, no sound at all most of the time. It just gave up about 6 months ago.

Head unit works fine. So it is likely to be amp according to couple shops I've talked to.

Oddly it does work rarely during cold winter morning.

I was told replacing with oem will cost about one grand.

Shop owners advised me to just go all aftermarket for cheaper fix, which still will cost me minimum $500.

Well, I could live with no audio. Not an immediate danger.



2. Power windows dead - first, driver side dead about 8 months ago.

just yesterday, passenger side dead as well.

Checked with local mechanic today. Told me it would cost 300~400 to fix, depending on how many parts need to be replaced.

Not an immediate danger. Have sunroof that is still working...for now.



3. Faulty coolant senor. It had me freak out. (sht engine seal might have gone bad?) but later found its just faulty sensor (common in S2)



4. problems mentioned above should NOT happen to a 5 yrs old modern car.



It is a relief that audio/window problems do not compromise car's drivability.

But even most of the cheaper cars that are 5~6 yrs old do not have those problems.

Hell, even my father's 13 years old passenger car does not have problems other than some common automatic transmission issues and minor leaks from hoses, which is acceptable considering hes car has about 200K miles on it.



In summary, here are my opinion based on 6 yrs of ownership.



Pros

1. Best handling car in the price range. Very forgiving.

2. Unique engine that revs to 9k rpm (for manual only)

3. 4 doors 4 seats = lot more practical than 2dr coupes

4. drive feel is exceptional overall.

5. Surprisingly comfortable. I expected harsher ride.



Cons

1. Small things to keep in mind, such as not turning off the engine while cold, religiously maintaining oil level etc etc

2. Build quality is not quite there for a mass produced model. (except engine. its hand built)

3. Stealerships that love to take advantage of uninformed customers. (well this isn't mazda only issue but still...fking with my warranty? unacceptable. )

4. Unique engine - you need to find a good mechanic who knows how to deal with rotary engine if something goes wrong while you are out of warranty or stealership does not want to honor your warranty for some reason.

5. Regular maintenance could be costly. (coils, spark plugs, tires, breakpads etc)



Will I buy another mazda car? ABSOLUTELY NO.

Not even recommending it to my friends and family.

Actually I will STOP them from buying one.



How about next gen rotary car?

may be as a weekend car...just not within first 5~6 years of its release.



I really love the rotary engine and all

but dealing with sub-par build quality (durability) is not what i'd wanna get involved again in future.

may be im just getting old.

{WTB} Silver RX-8 Hood and Front Bumper

Looking for a silver hood and front bumper for series 1 rx-8 in good condition. Anyone selling?



Ngo

Does This Sound Like Flooding?

Hey there. I have a problem starting my RX-8. I suspect it is a flooding issue, but while I'm capable of performing basic maintenance I'm not a seasoned mechanic and I'd like some other opinions.





I have a 2011 RX-8 R3. Around 25k miles. I have been keeping up with all of the normal maintenance (mostly oil at this point). Two days ago I started the car. It ran for 2-4 seconds and then basically stalled out. I tried to restart and it cranks but won't catch.





The last time I drove the car was just to move it out of the garage to put my other car in. I'm usually very good about watching the red line and waiting for the car to warm up before turning it off, so I suspect I did this time as well, but just because of the timing there is certainly the possibility that I had a brain lapse this time.





In any case, I thought it may have been a flooding issue. From some comments on the boards, I did the "floor the accelerator and start it several times" thing and didn't have any luck. I got a jump from my wife's car to see if a little more battery would help (I'm still on the OEM) and while the starter was noticeably faster it didn't actually get the car started up.





So, the first question I have for everyone is - does this sound like a flooding issue? I know that it is a common problem, but I wasn't sure what the symptoms would actually look like and I don't want to keep trying things to solve the completely wrong problem.





The next question of course is what to do about it. Based on some of the reading I've done in the past couple of days it looks like I should have changed coils at 20k, which I did not. Will that help at this point, or is that just something that might help for next time? What else should I do to get it started, and is there anything else I should change when I do?





Thanks much for the replies.

Pass smog on low compression?

8Forum,



Thanks for looking



I have a 2004 Auto with low compression 6.9-7.0 all around. My smog is due next month and I've been spending a bit of money on misc repairs. My question is whether or not I'm wasting my time due to the fact that if it doesn't pass smog then fixing misc issues for next months registration is pointless.



Anyone smog an 8 with low compression but an otherwise good running car? I get the typical hot start issues



Thanks

The best cooling mod evar!!!!

New clutch...

So in the midst of finally getting a whole new brand engine for like 100$ I was very happy with Mazda working with my warranty. But I guess my clutch is toast... Long story and many hours of stressing later cause I don't have enough money for a 800$ job for a new clutch. Talked to my mom who has a guy whose been working with cars for 16 years and who is a mechanic. He is very very sure that getting this 400$ daikin clutch will be okay. He is very serious. So I'm buying that today and just giving it to Mazda and having them install it. Did I make an okay choice? And no I'm not some racing or suping up enthusiast I just want something that is reliable and will ride smoothly.

Where to tap R3 oil temperature and pressure

I want to get oil temp and pressure for my R3 on cockpit gauges. However, for sensors the easy route of an oil filter sandwich plate looks out as the oil filter is surrounded by walls that leave insufficient room for sensors and connections.



To get oil temp I could tap into the sump or fit a modified connection at the sump, but that still leaves me short of an oil pressure location. I can't see an obvious place and think I'll have to remove a few things and get dirty to look further.



When I do a DIY installation I'll put a write-up here.



Can anyone help with any info or advice?

{WTB} Brand new or near new, 20b OMP

Does anyone know where I can buy a new, or almost new, 20b omp, for wayyyy less than $1600?? I can't believe the price of that thing, it's insane!!! Also, is a fd or fc omp the same, aside from the oil outlet pipes 2 instead of 3 or four instead of 3? Whatever.



I'll pay $300 for a new one. (20b omp)

How to drive in town? What do you guys do ?

Since a rotary engine needs higher rpms to run clean and , running at low RPM under load will damage the engine ?

Is that a correct statement ?

My thoughts , I try and keep RPMS above 2000 in traffic in 25 35 45 MPH zones

I use a lower gear to keep RPM above 2000

What do you do ?

Your thoughts experience please !!

Sorry for the typo Guys

New take on the Wankel

Interesting article...



Compact Rotary engine is a petite powerhouse | Fox News

{ FS } Ebay oil overflow can

I bought two of these (one for overflow, one for SOMP adapter) and only ended up using one for both jobs. Link below is the exact kit from the vendor I purchased from. The one I have for sale is still sealed in the box. Colour is red.



$25 + shipping (free pickup in Barrie or Markham). Buying it from Ebay is $20 + $25 for shipping and takes two weeks to get here. PM for exact shipping cost.



JDM CNC Billet Racing Drift Aluminum OIL Reservoir Catch CAN Tank KIT 750ml RED | eBay

Gouge in rotor, whats acceptable?

Hello all,



Its been along time since I posted. I have had my rx8 sitting in my driveway for years and the market is so bad in Florida that you practically have to give the car away to sell it. Anyways, after reading all of the REW swap threads I decided to attempt one as well. I purchased a blown motor from Japan for $1350 and tore it down over the weekend. As expected the front front was blown and it appears that an apex seal cracked and went through the housing. I know the housing needs to be replaced and expect that the rotor will also be replaced. There are some gouges near the apex seal, but not on the apex groove. If there is no damage to the apex groove, can the rotor be reused? IF not, what is the reason?







Any insight would be appreciated.



Thanks in advance.

Amateur Intakes

Hey everyone. I'm too new to post any thread with the main boards still. But I have a question for all my newbie friends here.



How do you guys/gals like the stock intake?



Would it even make a difference to put a short ram on?



I have kits for a SRI or a Cold air, but I don't want to mess with the stock

unless is makes a difference.



If I took the stock entire airbox off, and leave the slinky rubby hose, and then put an SRI filter onto the end of the hose that was supposed to go to the airbox...do you think that would do anygood? or no? Just questions! I love my silver rx8.

heater control doesn't work on my 2004 rx-8

I did the test and the numbers go up and down like they are supposed to .just had engine installed and I am wondering if there is a connector they missed.looking for an electrical diagram any help would be appreciated .Only had the car 4 months and still learning alot about it

{WTB} 6 point Front strur bar

Looking for a 6 point front strut bar

auto exe or gt spec, etc

from my knowledge they are both discontinued

let me know, thanks!

BHR Fuel Pump Retaining Ring Removal Tool

So I received the BHR fuel pump removal tool and thought I would make a quick vid showing how easy it works. This is on a 2009 R3 that has never had the fuel pump retaining ring removed. I also have a custom tool for the RX-8 that was made by partsgroup.com that has worked well for me for a couple of years but it does chew up the ring a bit so you have to be careful and it is a rather large steel contraption so it's not very light and is not easily stored in the toolbox. The BHR tool fits nicely in the tool box and is light, billet aluminum.

BLACK HALO RACING RX-8 fuel pump removal tool. - YouTube

BLACK HALO RACING RX-8 fuel pump removal tool. - YouTube

Questions questions in WA

I am new to this so bear with me. 3 weeks ago I purchase a 2005 Mazda RX8 coup from my son in law. I love the car. It has 82,000 miles on the car. The engine was replaced by Mazda at 62,000 (under warranty)so about 20,000 miles ago. It runs great. But !!!!

I just took it in for an oil change at Firestone. They noticed oil on the air filter. They said it is most likely the Apex Seals and probably means it is rebuild engine time. I am thinking this can't be at 20,000 miles. Does this sound right? If so should this be covered under some kind of warranty?:uhh::Eyecrazy:

Hi

I'm Chen and used to be on RX7club years ago. Looking to get into used RX8 now so looking for some info and suggestions. Glad to join the brotherhood here.

{WTB} 06-08 Passenger BOSE speaker

Looking to buy a passenger door BOSE speaker from a 06-08.



04-05 will not work as the speaker is a different part. Please contact me with offers!

Aluminum Radiator?

I'm looking at putting a ALL Aluminum Radiator in my car are they just bolt in or do i need to do any mods to it here is the Radiator that I'm looking at :



All Aluminum Radiator Fit Mazda RX 8 GS GT Shinka Sport 2004 2008 R2 1 3 MT 2row | eBay

{ FS } Engine misc., ACT 3 Puck, Coilovers, etc.

Pick-up in the east GTA only, weekends are best. If you don't like prices make an offer we need this stuff gone.



$500 - STD Suspension Coilovers with 2 sets front springs (10k, 8k), 6k rear- good condition used for 1 season - no front top mounts





$20 - MAF Adapter





$50- Renesis front cover





$100 - REmedy-type water pump - from a Speedsource engine but unsure of manufacturer.





$400 - NEW never installed completely intact front harness - Over $1600 from Mazda







Free if you buy something else







$150 - like new from a Mazda Reman engine







$100 - stock injectors from hi-power 6-port engine Mazda Reman. Only run with race fuel.







$200 ACT 3-puck and lightweight flywheel - surfaces still good no gauging. LOTS of meat left on the clutch disc.







$150 Sparco Evo - Nov. 2009 cert date and no bottom cushion - 3 very small tears on the back but good condition otherwise







PM is the best way to contact

Thanks BHR

Just got and installed my BHR ignition kit today (along with new spark plugs). I held my breath when I fired it up (I always worry that I'm going to forget to hook something up) but it started without a problem and runs much smoother. The only real issues I had:



- Hooking the spark plug wires to the coils was tight even after bending the brackets for the wiring loom, especially on the coils for rotor #2.



- The two middle coils partially cover the bolts to secure the mounting plate (not to mention I had to go to the hardware store to get a deep 10mm socket to tighten it down).



Thanks BHR!

{ FS } Flywheel / ring gear from 2004 6spd

40 dollars plus 15 shipping in the lower 48 states.





Includes ring gear.





Properly removed with puller..doesn't have the $hit beat out of it.





I would resurface or scuff it up before re-using.





Mike

{ FS } Throttlebody new

New never used throttlebody

complete with elecronics

no porting

{ FS } 2009 SBM RX8 6MT Sport 47k miles -- $13k! (Cross post from sales and wanted)

Year: 2009

Make: Mazda

Model: RX-8

Price: $13000

Mileage: 47000

Color: Black

Located in Los Angeles Area (South Bay)



Check out the listing and pictures:



http://ift.tt/1qQeQdl

04 Key Repalcement

So I've got a 2 working keys that starts the car, (the original separate key & remote, and a flip key that I programmed afterwards).



I got another flip key recently cuz the existing one is kinda breaking apart. I know I could program the new key myself if I get a locksmith to cut it. What about the remote part though? Would I have to go through the dealer?

JM Auto Racing Black Friday/Cyber Monday Specials- N

Phone: 855-99-Turbo(88726)

Email: sales@Jmautoracing.com

Website:Performance Auto Parts - Car and Truck Accessories | JM Auto Racing - Intensify Your Ride! - Homepage

Starts Today Through December 1st!!







ACT-10% off Store Price

B&M-5% off Store Price

Agency Power-Save 10% on the Entire Brand

Apexi-Save an additional 5% off store price

APR Performance-Save an extra 5% off APR Performance Products

Ark Coilovers-Up to $100 off Store Price!

Ark Exhaust Systems-Up to $100 off Store Price!

ATS Diesel-5% off Store Price

Avo Turbo World-6% off Store Price

BC Racing BR Coilovers-$79.99 off Store Price

BC Racing ER Coilovers -$100 off Store Price!

BC Racing RAM Coilovers-$100 off Store Price!

BD Diesel-5% off Store Price

Belltech-Save up to 10% on Store Price

Borla-Save up to 7% on Store Price

Brian Crower -5% off Store Price

Bride Seats-Save $50 on any pair of Bride Seats

Carillo-Save an additional 5% off store price

Clutch Masters-Up to $50 off Clutch Masters FX Clutches and Flywheels

Cobb Tuning-Save 5% off our Store Price

Corsa-Save up to 7% on Store Price

CP Pistons-Save an additional 5% off store price

Cusco-Save an extra 5% on all Cusco Products

D2 Racing-Save 5% extra on all D2 Racing Products

Deatschwerks-Save up to 10% on all Injectors and Pumps

DiabloSport-Save 15% on the Entire Brand

Enkei-Your Choice of Muteki Lug Nuts Free with any 4 Wheels Purchased

Exedy-Up to $50 off Exedy Stage Clutches and Light Weight Flywheels

Extreme Dimenions-Save 10% on Aero Function, Couture and Duraflex Parts

Forge Motorsports-Save 5% off our Store Price

Fuel Lab-5% off Store Price

Gauge Pods-Your choice of Gauge Pod Free with any 3 Autometer, Innovate, Tanabe, or Defi Gauges

Greddy-10% off Store Price

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HKS-Save 5-10% on all HKS Exhaust Systems, Headers and Downpipes

HPS-Save an extra 10% off our Store Price

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Megan EZ Street-$25 off Store Price

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Motordyne Exhausts and ART Pipes-Big Savings on TDX-2, E370, Art Pipes and Manifolds

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Vossen Wheels-Call to Save Big on Vossen. Guaranteed in Stock!

Work Wheels-Your Choice of Lug Nuts Free with any 4 Wheels Purchased

Hi, new member with problems

Hi I've recently got an 06 rx8 off my brother as it is now struggling to run!

I tried to start it first off and just seemed to flood, after deflooding I was getting backfires.

I removed the plugs and they were gunked up so we cleaned them and they looked brand new. Put them in an a good jump battery connected and within a minute or so it fired and run quite well with only a very slight stutter about 6k.

After a small run it started to struggle so we stripped the coils and 3 were burnt so put 4 new ones on today and it won't start on the starter but will bump.

If you put it in deflooding mode you can hear it backfiring and sometimes comes back up to the airbox.

It started to smoke and run rough once it was running and a oily scented smoke was coming from the car and the catalytic was glowing really red!

The compression in the engine is good.

No mil light

Full service history at Mazda to 61k

Only done 66k

I've been going through the internet for about a week now and the only 2 possibilities I'm left with is blocked cat or engine failure!

Am I missing anything else?

Also if I just disconnect the cat would the engine run?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Also any tips

Thanks

Dan

{ FS } Radio and climate controls from 04

Selling a climate control and radio assembly from a 2004...not bose, single CD changer.





It was working...then the display went out...which is not associated with the radio or climate control.





Selling as a core...if it works great, but if it doesn't no tag backs!





price is plus approx. actual shipping via UPS.

First rx8 bought 3 days ago throwing misfire code

Hello every one I am new to the rx8 don't know much about it but so far I love it the only thing is that it is throwing a misfire code and cel blinks every now and then I've done some research and read about it but on all the threads that I I've seen they all say it looses power my rx8 runs fine in low or high Rpms no power loss does any one have any idea what It can be it has msd ignition wires they look farly new and so do the coils I should mention it is also throwing an O2 sensor code any ideas. Thanks

95 @ Wlllow Spring raceway November 29-30, 2014

$95 @ Streets of Willow (CW13) November 29, 2014

$95 @ Big WIllow November 30, 2014



Extremespeedtrackevents will be at Willow Springs in in SoCal-



November 29th, 2014 @ Streets of Willow

November 30th, 2014 @ Big Willow



Special track day price of only $95 for the whole day on track .

DISCOUNT CODE IS ( SOW45)

Any Questions email sung@extremespeedtrackevents.com

Register here- Home - Extreme Speed Track Events

Must register before November 25 for the discount



Free Basic on track instruction for beginners, All driver levels welcome.Beginners are welcome.

Extremespeed will be running special private run groups for beginners who want to get familiar with on track essentials and car control at highway speeds.

Free timing for all drivers

I"m new and got questions!

I've had my Rx8 for awhile and I'm having issues with it, issues that hadn't come up in the past 6 months. It seems whenever I drive 4th gear gets very little gas and revs, it won't go above 3,000rpms unless I'm on the highway and going 70mph+ and it has to do to sustain the speed. Whenever I go up a hill(even a small one) 4th gear kinda fails and it switches down to 3rd gear sometimes even 2nd. It happens even if I don't step on the peddle any harder then regular acceleration. Was wondering what could be wrong, my check engine light it is on and is giving me numbers about the computer? When I just got the CAT converter replaced because it wasn't breathing correctly. Any suggestions would be fantastic!

P0302 code

I did some searching and can't find a exact answer alot of speculation of what it could be.

I parked my car last night started right up this morning right before it got up to normal temp idled rough and had to give gas to keep running then it died and was hard to start. When it did I had to give it gas to keep running makes almost a sputtering sound when I hit the gas and lack of power and smoothness through rpm's.

I ran Torque app and showed P0302 misfire code.

Rebuild has @5500miles had new plugs, wires, coils, cat, and evap pump all replaced at the same time.

Car was running good maybe a little rich during warm up, idled right at 800 and accelerated good through rpm range.

Where do I start? Check plugs?Reset ESS?

Definitely has me baffled!

FS: Rx8 Clutches

I have two clutches/flywheels/pressure plates for sale. These are from a series II but will fit all rx8's from 2004-2011.



One with 60000 kms

100$



One with 230000 kms.

50$



Both are in good shape but obviously the newer one will be more expensive.



They are currently located in Belleville but I can deliver pretty much anywhere in Ontario. Not Ottawa. Hah. Delivery beyond the normal will cost a bit extra just to cover my gas.

Shaking on Startup followed by solid CEL

Hey guys, need more help it seems. It may be something related to my earlier issue I posted about regarding stalling at idle, but here goes.



Long story short, I store my RX8 for the winter. Unfortunately, we were hit with a massive snow storm with very cold temps. Because I have performance tires, and with the amount of snow/ice, I can't get it to the storage center until it warms up enough that the ice can melt some on the roads. In the meantime, I have been starting it up and letting it run for 30-40 minutes every 3 or 4 days or so. So tonight, being the fourth day, I start it up. Its a chilly 27 degrees out. Anyways, so I crank the car, starts up rather quickly considering the temps, but it starts to shake a bit, and then the CEL comes up and stays on, solid. I let it run, rev up the engine a few times to redline, cautions not to overdo it because of the CEL. Anyways, I let it sit for 45 minutes, shut it off, wait about 10 seconds, start up and CEL stays on.



Now, I know I need to pull the codes, but being the situation that its in, I can't get it to the dealer. Besides, I want to store it for the winter, just need to get it to my storage garage.



In the meantime, I am a bit concerned. Has this happened to anyone else? Like I said, this could be related to the issue I had earlier, where the car would just die here and there at stop signs.

{WTB} Looking for low milage manual tranny

Hi



Looking for series 1, manual tranny very low milage. Price is negotiable! Not sure if it matters but a 08 is newer than my 05 so if you have a newer one that would be cool!



Thanks, Skydemon :)

{ FS } RB Oil cooler screens

A pair of RB Oil Cooler Screens 25$ 2009-2012

pm me if interested.

Mazdaspeed exhaust rattle

I have a Mazdaspeed exhaust on my 2005 8 and it'll rattle sometimes at low rpm... I first thought it was the catalytic converter but it doesn't sound like a can of rocks just light rattle. It's not a big deal it's just kind of annoying sometimes. Any ideas?

Thanks guys.

{FS/WTT} Mazda 3 Part Out (2004) All Stock and Modified Parts

Mod Edit:

Selling of non-rotary related parts is not permitted on the forums.


http://ift.tt/1xdfn5x

Quote:

- RX8Club is not a general classified ad site; please do not post for sale ads for your used car (unless it's an RX-8), your apartment for sublease, or your used furniture, etc. These types of ads will be removed. For instance, in the Parts for Sale forum, the forum is ONLY for the sale of RX-8 and rotary powered vehicle parts, or things that could be used with the vehicle. In the RX-8s For Sale forum, the forum is ONLY for the sale of rotary engine powered vehicles.

DIY Brake Cooling

I've been concerned for a little while over my brake temperatures on track days, the increased wear of the inner brake pads and the fast wear after the pads get to 1/3 thickness. I therefore had a look at ways that I could get brake cooling without spending a fortune. The more I looked at what other people had done on other cars, eg here and here, the more I wanted to use my experience and knowledge of aerodynamics rather than just cobble something together. They are both easier and cheaper than my project, but they are too inefficient and agricultural for me (I was spoilt by doing an aeronautically-biased engineering degree, doing an Aeronautical Systems Masters and working with Germans for 7 years in which everything I did had to be spot on).



Why bother with aerodynamics? Apart from my finding the subject fascinating, a poor system design can increase drag significantly. Cooling systems and front wheels account for some 35% and 13% respectively of total drag; taking clean air from the bumper, throwing it or fitting big tubes into the front wheel wells can make this situation far worse.



I’m doing this in the first instance on my R3 then on my S1 project car. The main differences between the 2 that affect this are the fog lights and how the radiator inlets are configured.



I began by breaking the problem into 2 parts: where to get cooling air and how to take it to the brakes. The second question has 2 possible answers: to duct it to the centre of the brake discs directly or to angle air across the wheel wells towards the brake discs. Whilst large hoses in the wheel wells can cause some drag (think of all that rotating air hitting the hoses), throwing air into the wheel wells will almost certainly cause much more drag.



The air flows and pressures inside and adjacent to a wheel well are complicated and dependent on such factors as the shape of the wheel. You can get some unexpected results; for example, Vauxhall found that when they extended the bumper of the Calibra (class-leading CD of 0.29) downwards the air exiting the wheels interfered with the air coming off the air dam produced more drag rather than less as had been expected.



I looked at 4 ways of getting cooling air: a hole in the bumper or radiator air inlet, a scoop under the undertray, a scoop attached to the wheel hub and a hole just forward of the front wheel air dams (the short blades that come down from the undertray just in front of the front wheels). I don’t like the idea of taking air from the bumper that would otherwise pass down the side of the car with relatively low drag, but it is the simplest and somewhat obvious. I ruled out scoops under the undertray (too much drag, reduced ground clearance, risk of damage) and on the hub (hard to get cooling air without restricting steering movement), so that left only taking air from in front of the air dams.



What are the air dams for, you may ask, and how can they get cooling air? They’re there to trip underbody air before the front wheels and so reduce interference with the air from the front wheels; when designed correctly they reduce drag by around 4%, albeit the increased pressure they generate causes lift. If I place the inlet just in front of the air dams then the increased pressure will drive air through a hose to the brake discs, thus reducing the air left to cause drag at the wheels and further along the underbody.



To measure the static air pressure for both these choices I carried out a DIY pressure check with some differential pressure gauges connected to plastic tubing run to 3 places: the number plate (for stagnation pressure), the air dams and the centre of the brake disc. The pictures show the gauges and the tubing going to the brake disc.



Compared to atmospheric, the pressure in the brake disc was slightly lower below 50 mph and slightly higher above, and the pressure difference at the air dams was 70-75% of the pressure difference at the number plate (approximately stagnation pressure).

x

Calculating the size of the hose is so complicated that I took the easy route of seeing what others had claimed for their projects and scaling accordingly. This gave me a diameter of 40-50 mm and the available space at the brake discs made 50 mm (2”) the best size to start with.



When I look to route the hoses I’ll look to leave room for modding the oil cooler exhausts later on. The oil coolers vent into the wheel wells immediately ahead of the tyres, with Mazda making an attempt to angle the outflow downwards to minimize drag with the air rotating around the tyres. Mazda's design shows all the compromises for space, complexity and cost inherent in any road car and, IMO, have done a reasonable job, notably having inlet ducting. That said, the design is far from the ideal (radiators are most efficient when they have inlet and exhaust ducting with an inlet/outlet 1/4 of the radiator width at 1 width ahead/behind the radiator) and I have a project on my list to assess making cooling more efficient by fitting exhaust ducting to my project car (IMO the design is perfectly adequate for standard cars, to the extent that blanking is needed for cold weather). For completeness, I’ll mention that I’ve considered a few other improvements around the wheels: vents in the top of the wings (too flash); vents in the rear of the well (too much work?); aerodynamic fairings in front of the wheels as in Merc SLRs (too much trial-and-error effort to avoid stability problems); and fairings on the wheels (looks a bit silly). Sucking air out of the rear wheel wells and venting it out the rear bumper using an electric fan will significantly reduce drag, say by 8%, mainly by filling in the low pressure area at the car rear.



I’ve now ordered the bits I need and will update this thread when I’ve got more to show.

Remote key/lock ID number?

I have a little issue I hope someone can help me out with.



The RX8 I bought only came with 1 regular key and i really want a remote controlled one. The dealer say they need an ID number for the key, wich isn't the chassis or ID number. It's supposed to sit in the front right side door(4-5 digits). I had the door panel off the other day, but only found a number which proved to be the wrong one.

So do anyone know where this number sits and how I can find it?Hoping to save the 100USD the dealer is asking for finding it...



Also a side note, I broke 7 out of 9 plastic clips while taking the door panel off, even if I tried to be careful. Is there a secret trick to getting those things out unharmed, i.e me being a retard, or is the plastic that fragile?



PS: I've searched alot around without finding much on this topic.

Display Customization

Previous owner installed the Metra dash panel with a new radio . This is the instructions I used to reset my information display

see link http://ift.tt/1HrKAdu

complete instruction to reset display

Mine reads Griffs RX8 smile

Midpipe swap without a lift?

Hi all,



After some fruitless searches, I've turned to creating a new topic to ask this question: those who have swapped your own midpipe, did you do it without a lift and how hard was it?



My go-to mechanic quoted me $98 to do the change if I provide the parts which isn't bad, but if I can do it with a jack and jack stands with my friend then that would obviously be cheaper, however probably more difficult...



Thanks!

Technical question: why exactly do weak coils kill cats so fast?

So I recently changed my ignition from a dead OEM system to BHR and the next item on my repair list is a new cat. I've already decided on the BHR midpipe with cat because Washington requires emissions every 2 years and I can't pass with P0420 lit up. And there is no way in hell I'm paying $2k+ for an OEM cat. That's just ridiculous.



So just to understand the RX-8 better, I was hoping a techie could explain to me why weak or dead ignition coils kill cats so fast?

Sudden and unexpected death

So about my 04 rx8.

Has about 18-20k miles on a new engine and I put partial synthetic oil in it every 3-4 weeks. Recently it's been seeming as though it struggles slightly on ignition but then runs just fine. Other than that no symptoms. Tonight however after pulling into the road it immediately lost power on revs and the only way I can describe the sensation of the engine is that it felt rough and was making a deeper tone than usual. CEL came on blinking and weirdly got better BREIFLY, for about two minutes then instantly spiraled. It couldn't maintain power on idle and died twice after that. Oh and also, saw bits of red hot something or other come out the exhaust while on the road. That part seems somewhat significant. My suspicion is that its my apex seals? Thoughts anyone?

Using engine in plane

Hi I'm Matt from Canada. I'm going to build a plane and use the rotary engine for the powerplant. Learning a lot about rotary's here and on the rx7 club.

{ FS } 225/45/18 Blizzaks

Selling 2 225/45/18 Bridgestone Blizzaks had them on my rx8 worked perfect every winter. They have about 6-7/32s left to them. Local pick in PA 18702 unless you want to pay for shipping. No whole or patches even wear.