Anybody please help
Every time I drive my 8 from the house down the street to the store and then go back in the car to start it up, it takes a looooooong time to start up, but when I go back to start it up like 1hr or 2 later it'll start fine when its cooled down....... please let me know if you know what the problem is.
MSV2's Mazda Build Thread
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to share my build with everyone in the community and because I'm building up multiple cars, I didn't feel right putting it in a specific build area. So here it goes!
Vehicles
1995 Mazda RX-7 Base (Chaste White)
- Current Mods: Racing Beat Springs, Racing Beat Cat Back, Racing Beat Front Sway Bars, 99 Spec Tail Lights, Efini Emblems, OEM R1 Dual Oil Coolers, OEM R1 Strut Bar, Mazdaspeed Miata Steering Wheel, Mazdaspeed Leather Shift Knob
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT (Winning Blue)
- Current Mods: Mazdaspeed Front Bumper/Side Skirts/Diffuser, HKS Hipermaxx RS Coilovers, Mazdaspeed Cat Back, Mazdaspeed CAI, OEM Euro Lip Spoiler, Mazdaspeed Stainless Steal Brake Lines, Mazdaspeed Brake Pads, BHR Ignition Kit, Advan Kruezer Series V wheels (19x9 +42, 19x9 +42), JDM Weather Visor, AFE Short Shifter, Progress Front and Rear Sway Bars w/ Adjustable End Links, JDM B-Pillar Applique (RX8 w/ Rotor), JDM Piano Black Door Handle Covers, JDM Clear Corners
- Mods in Storage: RE-medy Water Pump, Mazdaspeed Flywheel, Mazdaspeed Clutch, RX8 Performance oil pan, Ron Davis Radiator, RX8 Performance Motor Mounts, RX8 Performance upgraded Oil Coolers and Lines, RX8 Performance Trio Canister, New Belts
2007 Mazdaspeed 6 (Brilliant Black)
- Current Mods: Corksport LED Light Kit
There's the summary of the three cars i'm building/wasting my money on. I'll constantly update this post with new mods and such. Maybe later, I'll hop on youtube to do vlogs on this as well as review the parts and such. Hope you all enjoy reading this and feel free to give me feedback on anything! I'll be posting this across a few forums.
Just wanted to share my build with everyone in the community and because I'm building up multiple cars, I didn't feel right putting it in a specific build area. So here it goes!
Vehicles
1995 Mazda RX-7 Base (Chaste White)
- Current Mods: Racing Beat Springs, Racing Beat Cat Back, Racing Beat Front Sway Bars, 99 Spec Tail Lights, Efini Emblems, OEM R1 Dual Oil Coolers, OEM R1 Strut Bar, Mazdaspeed Miata Steering Wheel, Mazdaspeed Leather Shift Knob
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT (Winning Blue)
- Current Mods: Mazdaspeed Front Bumper/Side Skirts/Diffuser, HKS Hipermaxx RS Coilovers, Mazdaspeed Cat Back, Mazdaspeed CAI, OEM Euro Lip Spoiler, Mazdaspeed Stainless Steal Brake Lines, Mazdaspeed Brake Pads, BHR Ignition Kit, Advan Kruezer Series V wheels (19x9 +42, 19x9 +42), JDM Weather Visor, AFE Short Shifter, Progress Front and Rear Sway Bars w/ Adjustable End Links, JDM B-Pillar Applique (RX8 w/ Rotor), JDM Piano Black Door Handle Covers, JDM Clear Corners
- Mods in Storage: RE-medy Water Pump, Mazdaspeed Flywheel, Mazdaspeed Clutch, RX8 Performance oil pan, Ron Davis Radiator, RX8 Performance Motor Mounts, RX8 Performance upgraded Oil Coolers and Lines, RX8 Performance Trio Canister, New Belts
2007 Mazdaspeed 6 (Brilliant Black)
- Current Mods: Corksport LED Light Kit
There's the summary of the three cars i'm building/wasting my money on. I'll constantly update this post with new mods and such. Maybe later, I'll hop on youtube to do vlogs on this as well as review the parts and such. Hope you all enjoy reading this and feel free to give me feedback on anything! I'll be posting this across a few forums.
Clunk on cranking attempt
My car cranked for a second, literally, then made a loud lock up noise. now the car wont crank. I think I need to get my started tested and/or replaced. Any ideas on what it could be? I haven't had a chance to get under the car to remove it with all the rain we had recently.
duraflex opinions
Ok so i have been thinking about getting some kind of kit as i am just beginning to get horrified by my stock front and rear bumpers...... particularly:banghead: the front. Anyways I know how all you guys say dont go cheap go expensive to buy the best and all that....... but some of us are on real hard budgets. now I know there are some good kits out there but what are some of your guys opinions?
Here is one I found that i like and would like something like this/similar as I like the style and the price is right around in my price range:
Duraflex® - Mazda RX-8 2004-2011 Velocity Body Kit
Here is one I found that i like and would like something like this/similar as I like the style and the price is right around in my price range:
Duraflex® - Mazda RX-8 2004-2011 Velocity Body Kit
blown engine
whats the going price for a 04 s1 auto rx with a blown engine with 125k, but i also have bc coilover (10K) rb midpipe and exhaust? i just asking my car isnt current blown. just getting a rough estimate.
Almost crashed today
Well I almost wrecked today. Just got Megan racing lower control arms for the rear and an alignment, but when I was getting on the on ramp today a heard a metal clink when I turned. Also hit a bump so I thought it was just bottoming out (it did sound eerie and different tho). When I was going about 50, the rear end did a little dance and I did 2 360s until I stopped. Managed to keep it mostly on the road. No accidents and no exterior damage as far as I know of yet.
Anyone have any idea what broke? Are the Megan adjustable lower control arms crappy? Just a bit shaken up here. The camber bolts look like they haven't moved.
Anyone have any idea what broke? Are the Megan adjustable lower control arms crappy? Just a bit shaken up here. The camber bolts look like they haven't moved.
{WTB} mid pipe that will fit with Borla catback exhaust
looking for a mid pipe that will fit with Borla catback exhaust, new or used
Electrical problems; won't crank
Hi again guys; having a string of problems with my '04.
Now I've got some electrical problems. The other day, car died at idle, including all the electrical systems. After fiddling with the battery terminals, electronics come back and I got it to start fine. However, now I can't start it at all. My battery appears to be OK (car will unlock, lights come on, radio can play), but as soon as I try to start the car, ALL the electronics die completely, and it won't even crank. It's really strange. All the electrical systems come back on as soon as I remove the negative terminal from the battery and put it back on again. At first I thought it was just a bad connection, so I cleaned off the negative terminal a bit (wasn't very dirty), but it didn't help. Everything works fine until I try and start the engine. Battery should not be close to dead.
Now I admit that I haven't checked the ignition fuse (had to get to work), but I can't understand why a blown fuse would cause everything to cut out, and then come back after re-seating the battery terminal.
I got the battery new about 6 months ago, and haven't had a single problem with it until recently.
Any ideas? I'll probably replace the battery and see if that helps first.
Now I've got some electrical problems. The other day, car died at idle, including all the electrical systems. After fiddling with the battery terminals, electronics come back and I got it to start fine. However, now I can't start it at all. My battery appears to be OK (car will unlock, lights come on, radio can play), but as soon as I try to start the car, ALL the electronics die completely, and it won't even crank. It's really strange. All the electrical systems come back on as soon as I remove the negative terminal from the battery and put it back on again. At first I thought it was just a bad connection, so I cleaned off the negative terminal a bit (wasn't very dirty), but it didn't help. Everything works fine until I try and start the engine. Battery should not be close to dead.
Now I admit that I haven't checked the ignition fuse (had to get to work), but I can't understand why a blown fuse would cause everything to cut out, and then come back after re-seating the battery terminal.
I got the battery new about 6 months ago, and haven't had a single problem with it until recently.
Any ideas? I'll probably replace the battery and see if that helps first.
Looking for Cobb AccessPORT
Hey guys
I been on a search for a Cobb AccessPORT for our RX8's. Now i know they been discontinued and most places don't sell them anymore (all places i have been able to check at least), but wanted to know if anyone knows of a place i can buy one or anyone knows of someone willing to sell one to me?
If im not able to get one of these what would be the other next best thing to use?
I been on a search for a Cobb AccessPORT for our RX8's. Now i know they been discontinued and most places don't sell them anymore (all places i have been able to check at least), but wanted to know if anyone knows of a place i can buy one or anyone knows of someone willing to sell one to me?
If im not able to get one of these what would be the other next best thing to use?
Moral question - the $100 tip thing that hit Facebook
I am leaving my opinion out for now. :D
Is this bragging or is this spreading the word.
Basically the couple had bad service but used to be servers and understood why, since the Resaurant was understaffed... so they left a $100 tip and wrote "we've been in your shoes, pay it forward" and left a $100 tip..... very nice of them.... then posted it on facebook.... it has gone viral now....
by posting it on FB was that bragging or was that spreading the word or was it _____________?
Couple leaves $100 tip for horrible service | National News - WTAE Home
Is this bragging or is this spreading the word.
Basically the couple had bad service but used to be servers and understood why, since the Resaurant was understaffed... so they left a $100 tip and wrote "we've been in your shoes, pay it forward" and left a $100 tip..... very nice of them.... then posted it on facebook.... it has gone viral now....
by posting it on FB was that bragging or was that spreading the word or was it _____________?
Couple leaves $100 tip for horrible service | National News - WTAE Home
Quote:
An Iowa couple's kind gesture is going viral. Makenzie Schultz posted to Facebook over the weekend about the bad service she and her husband experienced at a restaurant. "Took 20 minutes to get water, 40 minutes for an appetizer and over an hour for our entrée. People all around us were making fun of the restaurant and how bad the service was," she wrote. But the server was juggling 12 tables plus the bar on an obviously short-staffed night. "I said to Steven, wow, this used to be us. Waiting tables. I don't miss it at all and I never loved that job. I did it for the tips. Steven and I agreed it would feel good to make this guy's night when he would probably be getting minimal to no tips due to slow service," Schultz wrote. Schultz posted a photo of their receipt from the night, with a $100 tip and a note about "paying it forward." They left before their server could notice. Since Saturday, the post has gotten more than 1.2 million likes on Facebook. Read more: Couple leaves $100 tip for horrible service | National News - WTAE Home |
Rebuild, porting and balancing.
lundi 29 septembre 2014
After trying to find up to date info on this topic, I've given up and decided to post a thread. I can only seem to find very old threads. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
I have an engine completely stripped, rear bearing went so just needs new eshaft and bearing (+ rebuild bits).
I have a budget of around £10,000 to spend on the car over a year, but I will be doing as much as possible myself.
The housings and rotors look fine to me, however is it worth having them examined professionally?
Next step is porting. Ive looked at the templates, heard about taking it too far and too early... I'm trying to find a clear answer/blueprint as to the optimal porting sizes and shapes, or as close to this as possible. At present it is 100% stock, the end product will be F.I, from what I see, porting specs vary depending on N/A and F.I?
The exhaust ports are a huge concern and I can't seem to find and modern conversation on this subject. I'd imagine there have been some advances in the last few years, but I can't seem to find any info. (maybe I'm not looking in the right places?)
Aside from blowing my budget on lightweight housings and rotors, is there anything else that can/should be done while I'm at this initial stage.
Looking at oil jets, balancing, better seals.
Thanks.
I have an engine completely stripped, rear bearing went so just needs new eshaft and bearing (+ rebuild bits).
I have a budget of around £10,000 to spend on the car over a year, but I will be doing as much as possible myself.
The housings and rotors look fine to me, however is it worth having them examined professionally?
Next step is porting. Ive looked at the templates, heard about taking it too far and too early... I'm trying to find a clear answer/blueprint as to the optimal porting sizes and shapes, or as close to this as possible. At present it is 100% stock, the end product will be F.I, from what I see, porting specs vary depending on N/A and F.I?
The exhaust ports are a huge concern and I can't seem to find and modern conversation on this subject. I'd imagine there have been some advances in the last few years, but I can't seem to find any info. (maybe I'm not looking in the right places?)
Aside from blowing my budget on lightweight housings and rotors, is there anything else that can/should be done while I'm at this initial stage.
Looking at oil jets, balancing, better seals.
Thanks.
Engine Dying when Shifting Down
I need help! I'm new to owning a rotary engine and am having trouble with it dying when coming to stops. I have a Mazda rx8 2004 not even sure what engine but is automatic. As i am coming to some stops the car doesn't shift down properly causing the engine to die with no noise. It then has trouble cranking back up for a minute or two. It usually gets stuck in 3rd gear and rpms just do not stop dropping until it dies. Is it the speed sensor or what? I'm very familiar with piston engines but like I said I have no idea about a rotary but excited to have it!
October 13th-Thanksgiving Monday Touge.ca Mosport DDT event 11:30am-5pm #20event 2014
2014 October 13th Thanksgiving Longwkend Monday @ Mosport new DDT Lapping event, #20 event of 2014.
"Flexible schedule with 20+ events offering to fit your busy life"!
Hello all drivers,
We would like to setup a Mosport DDT lapping event for our drivers and friends.
All Beginners are welcome!
Now, We're starting to build a list for the track day signup for the October 13th Thanksgiving Longwkend Monday!
We have the track Thanksgiving Monday October 13th, from 11:30 am - 5:00 pm booked, cost will be $189 prepaid for each participant.
We will have a short briefing prior to getting out on the track, followed by a 2 or more warm up laps, then lapping for the rest of the day. "Lapping" refers to just that, doing laps. Passing is STRICTLY prohibited except on the straights, and only when the person in front of you has allowed you by signaling you to pass. We reserve all rights to kick people off the track that are driving dangerously and/or aren't listening to track marshalls.
Format: Depends on turnout, One group
or Two groups (half hour each session), instead of 3 or more groups in other events with long wait with your own group. (no instructors or volunteer groups)
1. Advanced
2. Intermediate/Beginner
New drivers who would like to pre-book an instructor, please email info@Touge.ca
As usual, "Tons of photos" will be provided after each track event for you, your family, and friends!!
Track Packages and Deals:
Touge.ca 2014 Pricing
All those interested in attending this track day on October 13th
Please Email me your info below:
Full Name:
Car make, model, year, color:
Cell#:
Emergency contact person and phone#:
License plate#
Novice/Experience:
Email address:
Helmets is strongly recommended for safety reasons, you will have to sign a disclaimer at the track, for those who do not wear helmet and not following our lapping rules, the participants take full responsibility for their action. (if you have helmets, it won't hurt to bring them up).
Mosport DDT Track - Thanksgiving Long wkend Monday October 13th 11:30am-5pm
** Payment/Deposit**
Prepaid: $189 CAD or[/SIZE]
After October 3rd - Friday 11:59pm cutoff or At the track: $240 CAD
Please contact me if you want to meet up to pay for the track fee in GTA.
Whoever wants to pay the track fee by Email money Transfer - EMT ($189), PAYPAL ($196) or cash in person, kindly contact Kevin
(416-5649999) or email info@Touge.ca for instruction.
For those never use Paypal before, pls go to http://www.paypal.com
*2nd Driver (who shares the same car) half Price.
This is a full "5.5 hrs" lapping day, no break/lunch in between.
*Drivers meeting will be at 11:15am, one page of lapping rules and map layout of the track will be provided.
All those interested please sign up or email me asap. We want to build a list as soon as we can.
Please contact Kevin@ 416-5649999 if you would like to pay the track fee in person in GTA. Whoever wants to pay the track fee by, Email Transfer, Paypal, the email address is info@Touge.ca. For money order or personal cheque, please call/email me for details.
*Here are directions to Mosport International Raceway.
The directions are 401 east to exit 431 Waverly Rd(Durham rd 57) go north approx 20 km to Durham Rd 20 Turn right, go for approx 5 km to concession rd #10 turn right and you will go in the first gate (or Entrance #1).
Tons of photos are on our Facebook photography page below, Please LIKE and Share:
http://ift.tt/1wuWznD
Exhaust question
I feel really dumb posting this but I just bought a turboXS muffler off of eBay. I honestly thought this was considered a "catback". But as it turns out its not. Where can I buy the missing pipe?
{WTB} Accordion piece for stock intake
Must have three plastic nipple things intact.
Not sure how much these actually are but I know they are not much.
Not sure how much these actually are but I know they are not much.
{WTB} Upper intake manifold
I'm looking for an upper intake manifold for a 6port. I need all of the pieces to it.
Thanks,
Nick
Thanks,
Nick
RX8 Reliable Rebuild suggestions?
Looking to rebuild my lost compression engine any inputs on what i should all replace? AS far as making reliable?
Taillight fell out.
04 Rx8 recently had It's Taillight disconnect and fall out. Has this happened to anyone else? it's in the light shell.
Can't figure out what is wrong with my 2007 rx8
Hi everyone I am a new member and wanted to see if anyone has experienced the same problem as me.
I have changed my 1 bank oxy sensor replaced my cat put a new fuel pump in and cleaned my maf sensor, also had compression tested and is good.
What happens is after driving for a while it will cut out and will die but as soon as I turn the car off and on it will be fine for 10 minutes or so and will play up again. Had it in mazfix in Australia and they said it was the fuel pump as the pressure was low 28psi but since new pump and sensors are in still experiencing the same issue.
Please help me.
I have changed my 1 bank oxy sensor replaced my cat put a new fuel pump in and cleaned my maf sensor, also had compression tested and is good.
What happens is after driving for a while it will cut out and will die but as soon as I turn the car off and on it will be fine for 10 minutes or so and will play up again. Had it in mazfix in Australia and they said it was the fuel pump as the pressure was low 28psi but since new pump and sensors are in still experiencing the same issue.
Please help me.
{FS/WTT} 5Zigen FN01R-C's - 5x114 - 18x8.5, +30 - Brand New BF-Goodrich Tires - $1000 OBO
dimanche 28 septembre 2014
Hey,
I have a set of 5Zigen FN01R-C's for sale! Reason for selling is because I need the funds to finish my RX-7. No bends, cracks or dents. Minor paint chipping (plasti-dip coming off). Overall in great condition. Square set up. Specs are shown below:
Brand: 5Zigen
Model: FN01R-C's
Size: 18x8.5
Bolt Pattern: 5x114
Offset: +30
Tires: Brand New BF-Goodrich - 225/45/18s
Misc. Info: Tires are brand new, barely driven on, they include the 'FN01R-C' decals. No center caps included.
---
Located in SoCal.
Willing to ship on buyer's expense.
---
Asking $1000 OBO
Open to all reasonable offers and willing to negotiate on the price.
---
Contact via PM.
I have a set of 5Zigen FN01R-C's for sale! Reason for selling is because I need the funds to finish my RX-7. No bends, cracks or dents. Minor paint chipping (plasti-dip coming off). Overall in great condition. Square set up. Specs are shown below:
Brand: 5Zigen
Model: FN01R-C's
Size: 18x8.5
Bolt Pattern: 5x114
Offset: +30
Tires: Brand New BF-Goodrich - 225/45/18s
Misc. Info: Tires are brand new, barely driven on, they include the 'FN01R-C' decals. No center caps included.
---
Located in SoCal.
Willing to ship on buyer's expense.
---
Asking $1000 OBO
Open to all reasonable offers and willing to negotiate on the price.
---
Contact via PM.
{FS/WTT} 5Zigen FN01R-C's - 5x114 - 18x8.5, +30 - Brand New BF-Goodrich Tires - $1000 OBO
Hey,
I have a set of 5Zigen FN01R-C's for sale! Reason for selling is because I need the funds to finish my RX-7. No bends, cracks or dents. Minor paint chipping (plasti-dip coming off). Overall in great condition. Square set up. Specs are shown below:
Brand: 5Zigen
Model: FN01R-C's
Size: 18x8.5
Bolt Pattern: 5x114
Offset: +30
Tires: Brand New BF-Goodrich - 225/45/18s
Misc. Info: Tires are brand new, barely driven on, they include the 'FN01R-C' decals. No center caps included.
---
Located in SoCal.
Willing to ship on buyer's expense.
---
Asking $1000 OBO
Open to all reasonable offers and willing to negotiate on the price.
---
Contact via PM.
I have a set of 5Zigen FN01R-C's for sale! Reason for selling is because I need the funds to finish my RX-7. No bends, cracks or dents. Minor paint chipping (plasti-dip coming off). Overall in great condition. Square set up. Specs are shown below:
Brand: 5Zigen
Model: FN01R-C's
Size: 18x8.5
Bolt Pattern: 5x114
Offset: +30
Tires: Brand New BF-Goodrich - 225/45/18s
Misc. Info: Tires are brand new, barely driven on, they include the 'FN01R-C' decals. No center caps included.
---
Located in SoCal.
Willing to ship on buyer's expense.
---
Asking $1000 OBO
Open to all reasonable offers and willing to negotiate on the price.
---
Contact via PM.
Lateral link bushings?
Anyone know if the bushings for the rear lateral link (rear control arm where the end links bolt to) are available separately? I've searched online and can't seem to find a part number for the bushings beside the Energy suspension set. Which I don't need an entire set of bushings for all the arms.
I replaced the right lateral link which came including a new bushing already, because I had to torch the old bushing and cut out and replace the camber adjustment bolt/cam washer. Now the left side bolt is also frozen inside the metal sleeve in the bushing so I'm gonna have to torch it and cut that bolt out too.:banghead: So I'll need to replace the bushing along with the bolt but I can't find the singe bushing alone anywhere. Any one find the single bushing alone? Or would I have to replace the arm again once the bushing is destroyed?
I replaced the right lateral link which came including a new bushing already, because I had to torch the old bushing and cut out and replace the camber adjustment bolt/cam washer. Now the left side bolt is also frozen inside the metal sleeve in the bushing so I'm gonna have to torch it and cut that bolt out too.:banghead: So I'll need to replace the bushing along with the bolt but I can't find the singe bushing alone anywhere. Any one find the single bushing alone? Or would I have to replace the arm again once the bushing is destroyed?
msp16 maps
Anyone have these ? Mine was never updated to this flash. I figure it wouldbe a good starting point
{WTB} 2004 - 2007 6 port working engine assembly.
Looking for an engine for my 05 MT. If you have something let me know. You can just text me @ 6012151305
Subwoofer with stock stereo?
Hey fellas, I was wondering if its possible to hook up a Subwoofer, and a amp to the stock Bose stereo system. If not, what will I need? A different CD player? Thanks in advance!
{WTB} WTB Cobb Accessport
Looking to buy a Cobb Accessport for 04 6 port manual transmission model Rx8.
Preferably a later model v2. Unmarried of course.
Needs to be in good condition and fully functional. PM me with what you have.
Thanks!
Preferably a later model v2. Unmarried of course.
Needs to be in good condition and fully functional. PM me with what you have.
Thanks!
About bringing car to RE Amemiya for a tune lol?
Guys just want to know that is it possible to bring my car to Japan and let amemiya shop do a tune? We all know they are the best at rotary tuning. If possible How can I make it happen? What's the process? How much would it cost?
IMTV Stuck Open
samedi 27 septembre 2014
I got a CEL the other day when I started my 8 up after work. The CEL lasted for a day or two then it went out.
I went to a garage and they ran a scan, code came up P2070 IMTV Stuck Open. Would this need to be replaced or is there a way of cleaning/unsticking IMTV?
I went to a garage and they ran a scan, code came up P2070 IMTV Stuck Open. Would this need to be replaced or is there a way of cleaning/unsticking IMTV?
low coolant light on????
The low coolant light came on I stopped and checked everything and it was all ok. Any ideas as what this may be?
Do I need 2 oil coolers?
I've owned a 2004 6 speed rx8 for a year now and I was just driving and I guess my tire somehow caught my bumper because only the driver side part of the bumper got ran over. Anyway, its a mess and my driver side oil cooler is warped. I heard the "AT" (I'm not sure what that means but I assume it means automatic transmission) ones have only one and the "MT" ones have two. and its different for US specs? I live in the US. I just need some advice because 500 dollars for a oil cooler is a lot right now on top of other things. I tried using the search but you know..
Thanks,
itsjustjoe.
Thanks,
itsjustjoe.
{ FS } MazdaSpeed RX-8 Front Swaybar
QSEA-34-151
Recently removed from my 2004 RX-8 which is also for sale. This bar transforms the RX-8 into a curve hugging monster! If you are looking to have fun at the track (or street) get this bar and a thicker one for the rear. You'll chase Corvettes thru the corners, but alas, not on the straights :-(
This sells for almost $300 direct from Mazda -- yours for only $200.
Mazda P/N: QSEA-34-151
Can ship to anywhere in the US, buyer pays actual shipping charges.
Recently removed from my 2004 RX-8 which is also for sale. This bar transforms the RX-8 into a curve hugging monster! If you are looking to have fun at the track (or street) get this bar and a thicker one for the rear. You'll chase Corvettes thru the corners, but alas, not on the straights :-(
This sells for almost $300 direct from Mazda -- yours for only $200.
Mazda P/N: QSEA-34-151
Can ship to anywhere in the US, buyer pays actual shipping charges.
{ FS } Progress Technology Rear Swaybar
Recently removed from my 2004 RX-8 which is also for sale. This bar transforms the RX-8 into a curve hugging monster! If you are looking to have fun at the track (or street) get this bar and a thicker one for the front. You'll chase Corvettes thru the corners, but alas, not on the straights :-(
This normally goes for $175 new from Good Win Racing -- yours for only $125.
Can ship to anywhere in the US, buyer pays actual shipping charges.
__________________
This normally goes for $175 new from Good Win Racing -- yours for only $125.
Can ship to anywhere in the US, buyer pays actual shipping charges.
__________________
{ FS } Racing Beat Spring Set
Recently removed from my 2004 RX-8 which is also for sale. These are linear rate springs which are excellent for track/daily driver use. Combine these with Koni yellow (single adjustable) shocks for an excellent dual purpose setup (street/track). These will lower the car just enough to make it look right -- not that factory hiked up off road look!
These are $255 new from Racing Beat -- yours for only $200.
Can ship to anywhere in the US, buyer pays actual shipping charges.
These are $255 new from Racing Beat -- yours for only $200.
Can ship to anywhere in the US, buyer pays actual shipping charges.
{WTB} Headlight housing
I'm looking for a set of good right and left headlights or headlight assemblies.
Mane TRULY HOW RELIABLE IS DA gen 1 RX8
Mane don't know why other thread was closed? Just want to know how reliable is gen 1 RX8 05 ane can it go 150k miles for not much coin$? They can be bought for $6k - 7k with low miles ane great condition.need a reliable daily drive car ya digs. Any help I appreciate it.
Shameless
Shameless
high beam projectors
vendredi 26 septembre 2014
Anyone ever do a high beam retrofit? Was Thinking of doing s2k witth a shield mod and clear lenses in my high beams. Done a few retros In the past and I am planning on opening my headlights to mod my shields and install clear lenses as well as halos.
Worst Day. Scratched side skirt. Dropped iPhone
Hey everyone, So i'm dying a little inside.
I just curbed my R3's sideskirt today. It's slightly disfigured and has nice long gash about 6inches long.
And to top it all off I just dropped my new 6 Plus which shattered on the ground. Luckily I have Apple Care...
Anyway it's been a rough one and thus I turn to you lovely folk for advice and maybe a little sympathy.
What's the sideskirt made out of? And what's my best bet getting it repaired? Honestly it doesn't look too too bad. I'm sure the average person wouldn't notice anything, but I certainly do. I just want to get her fixed and am wondering what the best course of action would be. Respray and have a body shop repair the damage? Or look around for new skirts?
Thanks everyone
I just curbed my R3's sideskirt today. It's slightly disfigured and has nice long gash about 6inches long.
And to top it all off I just dropped my new 6 Plus which shattered on the ground. Luckily I have Apple Care...
Anyway it's been a rough one and thus I turn to you lovely folk for advice and maybe a little sympathy.
What's the sideskirt made out of? And what's my best bet getting it repaired? Honestly it doesn't look too too bad. I'm sure the average person wouldn't notice anything, but I certainly do. I just want to get her fixed and am wondering what the best course of action would be. Respray and have a body shop repair the damage? Or look around for new skirts?
Thanks everyone
Mane TRULY HOW RELIABLE IS DA gen 1 RX8
Mane how to keep a gen 1 RX8 on the road for@ least 150,000 miles for not a tons of coin. found one fo wit 69k miles if all works out can it make it there without changing engines every 40k miles as dey say? Gonna be daily driver like 15k miles year.
Is it reliable more Audi tt, Cross fire, Z3 ane 350z ya digs? Don't have to be Toyota Paseo cheap to run but nots Benz expensive either mane. Great site!
Real mane don't wear house shoes ya dig it.
Is it reliable more Audi tt, Cross fire, Z3 ane 350z ya digs? Don't have to be Toyota Paseo cheap to run but nots Benz expensive either mane. Great site!
Real mane don't wear house shoes ya dig it.
WHAT'S UP GUYS, LOOKING TO BUY A 05 wit 69k miles
Mane, looking to buy a 05 wit 69k miles. Clean carfax, 2 owners, very clean car, used car inspection ok. But didn't do compression test yet wanna use da dealer for that.
Any more things to looks out for? I'm really honestly trying to avoid getting screwed over ya digs. Any help is thanked.
Any more things to looks out for? I'm really honestly trying to avoid getting screwed over ya digs. Any help is thanked.
New rx8, obvious problems with engine
Hi all. Just got a 2005 Mazda rx8 shinka with 95k miles. It's obvious after reading up on the vehicle before I purchased it that it needs a new engine, or rebuild at least. It's suffering from an extended crank time due to what I think is poor combustion from the engine about about to fail. It's also got a hunting idle, both warm and cold. Along with a rattling rattling from from the exhaust from what might be again the poor combustion. The cat was replaced recently so it's alright. Aftermarket exhaust as well. The last problem besides the cel that just came on is the superb lack of power in in the higher rpms. It feels fine until you go to pass, and then feels like like you are driving a four banger against a race car. Leaving you feeling let down lol. My question to you all is, once this engine goes; should I be looking at a rebuild or an entirely new engine? Keep in mind I'm in Fairbanks Alaska so I'm not sure if I'd have great access to engines being shipped here (not sure how that works, if a shop orders orders it or whatnot; I've never had to get get new one). Just looking for for the best solution, and the RIGHT way to do it. I am purchasing an extended mile mile warranty from usaa before before the engine goes so it will be covered when it does. Anyways, that's about all the info I can think you need to know to help give me some advice about my situation. I'm new to rotaries but I have a general knowledge after doing my research, and am moderately mechanically inclined from projects in in the past. So don't make my head explode but don't be afraid to go in-depth either. Thanks in in advance and can't wait wait to have this rx8 running like a rotary should.
Stereo / heaters not working
So I have just recently bought a 2003 rx8,
When I got it all of the buttons, LCD , a/c worked perfectly fine.
About two weeks in, I tried plugging in an iPhone integrater.
Almost instantly after plugging everything in, I turn the car back on to check if it has worked. But not only did it not work but I lost all power to everything surrounding my head unit. I've searched on this forum. Have made sure all my fuses are still ok, made sure the faceplate and all leads are properly in the right place in the back. I am almost certain it's earthing properly. I'm stumped for any other reason it might not be working.
It could be that I've fried the whole thing but an putting off going to buy another one untill I've tried out all the options.
So if anyone has a slight clue please let me know . Any idea is welcome.
Thanks
When I got it all of the buttons, LCD , a/c worked perfectly fine.
About two weeks in, I tried plugging in an iPhone integrater.
Almost instantly after plugging everything in, I turn the car back on to check if it has worked. But not only did it not work but I lost all power to everything surrounding my head unit. I've searched on this forum. Have made sure all my fuses are still ok, made sure the faceplate and all leads are properly in the right place in the back. I am almost certain it's earthing properly. I'm stumped for any other reason it might not be working.
It could be that I've fried the whole thing but an putting off going to buy another one untill I've tried out all the options.
So if anyone has a slight clue please let me know . Any idea is welcome.
Thanks
{WTB} non functioning climate control
I am looking for a climate control for mainly the buttons. So not worn or cracked. Prefer it not to work so price can go down a bit. But will buy a functional one. Let me know what you have!
New to rx8 looking to buy this weekend HELP
I found a 2004 Rx8 Grand Touring 4 speed auto. Its for my girlfriend. It has 90.000 miles on it and looks very clean. Is this a good year to buy? What things should I be looking for to prevent hidden surprises later.
I already told her to drive it in manual mode with the paddle shifters and rev the motor and use it to prevent destroying it.
I already told her to drive it in manual mode with the paddle shifters and rev the motor and use it to prevent destroying it.
cel after i masked a dtc
I just flashed my ecu with mazdaedit. I masked the cel for the mid pipe, and another the air pump. P0420 I think it was of the top of my head.....
Any way. Now I'm getting a p2259. Is the only point of this solenoid Air pump operation? If so should I masked this one as well? My air pump is removed so if so it has no purpose.
Any way. Now I'm getting a p2259. Is the only point of this solenoid Air pump operation? If so should I masked this one as well? My air pump is removed so if so it has no purpose.
Dead Links/Pictures in Threads
Hey so I don't know if I should be posting this butttt...
As I am terrified of being flamed for posting a dumb question/one that has already been asked or asking for pictures or a tutorial that has already been done I feel it is my duty to ask that one of the administrators go through some of the old threads/diy, at least the super popular ones, and just delete ALL the dead links and photos. Half of the threads are completely unusable or pointless without pictures and it's a waste of time.
I feel as though the rock and a hard-place respectively, are asking for clarification on something already discussed but out of date (dead pics and links) and trying to soldier through or looking through older and older files in the hope some image survived.
I know I'm new and that's a lot to ask, I just wanted to check whether that's going to happen or if it's ok for me to start a new thread for something?
For instance in the DIY section there is a thread on OEM Part Modifications where every picture on all the pages is dead. This makes this page useless.
Let me know if I am way off base here. I also realize and greatly respect the fact of how much work I'm sure that it takes to run this site and I mean no disrespect. I simply want to respect the rules in place while still getting what I can out of the club.
Hopefully no one is mad that I posted this..
Cheers!
As I am terrified of being flamed for posting a dumb question/one that has already been asked or asking for pictures or a tutorial that has already been done I feel it is my duty to ask that one of the administrators go through some of the old threads/diy, at least the super popular ones, and just delete ALL the dead links and photos. Half of the threads are completely unusable or pointless without pictures and it's a waste of time.
I feel as though the rock and a hard-place respectively, are asking for clarification on something already discussed but out of date (dead pics and links) and trying to soldier through or looking through older and older files in the hope some image survived.
I know I'm new and that's a lot to ask, I just wanted to check whether that's going to happen or if it's ok for me to start a new thread for something?
For instance in the DIY section there is a thread on OEM Part Modifications where every picture on all the pages is dead. This makes this page useless.
Let me know if I am way off base here. I also realize and greatly respect the fact of how much work I'm sure that it takes to run this site and I mean no disrespect. I simply want to respect the rules in place while still getting what I can out of the club.
Hopefully no one is mad that I posted this..
Cheers!
{WTB} Need some Version C Coils ASAP
Hey just looking for some version C coils shipped to Victoria asap. Preferably brand new, thanks
{ FS } Selling GoPro Hero 3+ Black Edition
Selling my GoPro Hero 3+ Black Edition, comes with everything that comes in the box except for one mount which was lost; however, I am including over $100 in accessories.
Only asking for $380 with the camera and all the accessories included..
Please view my craigslist add for all the info and the images..
My phone number is on there, just text me for more info.
*** Selling LIKE NEW Go Pro Hero 3+ Black Edition With EXTRAS***
I will be shipping if need be at buyers expense.
I do not have my rx8 anymore so trades are out of the question.
Looking for cash/paypal only.
Highest offer gets it.
Thanks.
Only asking for $380 with the camera and all the accessories included..
Please view my craigslist add for all the info and the images..
My phone number is on there, just text me for more info.
*** Selling LIKE NEW Go Pro Hero 3+ Black Edition With EXTRAS***
I will be shipping if need be at buyers expense.
I do not have my rx8 anymore so trades are out of the question.
Looking for cash/paypal only.
Highest offer gets it.
Thanks.
retractable navigation box
jeudi 25 septembre 2014
Hi, im patricio and i'm from chile... I'm looking for a retractable navigation box without the gps. Just the case... Any info please let me know thanks!!!
Chatter noise on hard right turns on throttle
Ok so I searched a ton, looked under car, brainstormed and couldn't find anything wrong/loose/out of place. I'm stuck.
Problem is that on hard right turns, while on throttle, there is a loud metal-chatter type noise, from what I think is coming from the rear. I can't figure out what is might be. It doesn't seem to be something that rotational, doesn't sound like the noise is caused by rotation, more like a random vibrating/rubbing noise. I can't help but think LSD.
My car has only 26k easy driven miles on her
Mods are in sig
Any one have any other ideas?
Problem is that on hard right turns, while on throttle, there is a loud metal-chatter type noise, from what I think is coming from the rear. I can't figure out what is might be. It doesn't seem to be something that rotational, doesn't sound like the noise is caused by rotation, more like a random vibrating/rubbing noise. I can't help but think LSD.
My car has only 26k easy driven miles on her
Mods are in sig
Any one have any other ideas?
The Exhaust in this Video (How to Get That Purring Drop)
Go to 48-49 second mark of this video. I LOVE how the blue rx8 sounds and I know it lists the components and what not (I plan on investing in them shortly), I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Is there something special that makes that change in pitch (purring) sound when he throttles it?
Are there any other exhausts that sound similar. My brain hurts after thread surfing and watching a million youtube videos.
Are there any other exhausts that sound similar. My brain hurts after thread surfing and watching a million youtube videos.
Just curious here CEL
I was wondering who drives with a CEL with a code that isn't so serious? Sounds like a weird question but im interested in hearing which codes yall have while driving and not worrying about the problem at the moment?
I am driving with p0411 and learned it isnt so serious since my SAI pump still works.
I am driving with p0411 and learned it isnt so serious since my SAI pump still works.
{WTB} PPF Power Plat Frame for manual trans
I need a PPF for a manual trans RX-8.
Who has one? How much?
Thanks!
Who has one? How much?
Thanks!
98 Mustang O2 sensors
I know this is a bit of a long shot, but can anyone tell me how many O2 sensors are on a 98 3.8L mustang? And more specifically where are they?
Basically my BF and his uncle insist there are two. The Haynes manual seems to indicate there are four but for some reason is incredibly unhelpful in pointing out their locations. And I had a '98 Taurus that was given to my little brother in 2008 and I remember a few years back hearing my grandfather b****ing up a storm about replacing the O2 sensors on it because two were easy and the other two were near impossible.
The mustang is getting CEL P1151 and he changed two of the O2 sensors, the air filter, some vacuum hoses, and cleaned the MAF sensor but is still giving that code.
Helpful tips are appreciated, he's trying to fix it up so it can be inspected and sold to a different uncle before the end of October. Thanks!!
Basically my BF and his uncle insist there are two. The Haynes manual seems to indicate there are four but for some reason is incredibly unhelpful in pointing out their locations. And I had a '98 Taurus that was given to my little brother in 2008 and I remember a few years back hearing my grandfather b****ing up a storm about replacing the O2 sensors on it because two were easy and the other two were near impossible.
The mustang is getting CEL P1151 and he changed two of the O2 sensors, the air filter, some vacuum hoses, and cleaned the MAF sensor but is still giving that code.
Helpful tips are appreciated, he's trying to fix it up so it can be inspected and sold to a different uncle before the end of October. Thanks!!
Pikes Peak Rotary Discussion
I posted about this in the B@W thread because well I was bored at work.
I got the idea of doing PP rotary because I saw Gas Monkey Garage's Aaron Kaufman did it in his 63 Falcon.
This is to discussion a more viable power train set up i.e. REW, boosted Rensis or a 20b. I realize that there is more to it than just the power train but this is the heart of the car and would require the most attention.
I got the idea of doing PP rotary because I saw Gas Monkey Garage's Aaron Kaufman did it in his 63 Falcon.
This is to discussion a more viable power train set up i.e. REW, boosted Rensis or a 20b. I realize that there is more to it than just the power train but this is the heart of the car and would require the most attention.
{WTB} secondary fuel rail automatic
i need a secondary fuel rail for a automatic if you got the injectors might take them also.i have seen several on ebay for 15 bucks shipped for the rail only thats about what im looking to spend can paypal you as gift to avoid fees
{ FS } NGK sparkplugs / LS2 ignition components
I have a few things I ended up not using for sale,
1 x set of 4 New NGK spark plugs in retail packaging. $70 shipped
1 x new Ls2 ignition conversion wiring harness. $75 shipped
1 x new set of MSD Ls2 conversion spark plug wires. $70 shipped
4 x new D585 ignition coils. $100 shipped
I bought the stuff to do the conversion but before receiving everything I found a good deal on a used kit locally and decided that would be easier then making a way to mount the coils myself.
1 x set of 4 New NGK spark plugs in retail packaging. $70 shipped
1 x new Ls2 ignition conversion wiring harness. $75 shipped
1 x new set of MSD Ls2 conversion spark plug wires. $70 shipped
4 x new D585 ignition coils. $100 shipped
I bought the stuff to do the conversion but before receiving everything I found a good deal on a used kit locally and decided that would be easier then making a way to mount the coils myself.
{WTB} Wrecked/Damaged 2009+ SERIES II ONLY RX8
Just looking for a reasonably priced parts car to supplement my older 2009 Titanium Gray RX8. Don't care about the body, as my body is perfect. Engine/Tranny is a huge plus but not a deal breaker. Aftermarket parts are appreciated as well. Willing to pay up to 5000.
-D
-D
St.Catharines/K/W/London/Cambridge/Guelph/Hamilton ?!
Hey all. I just bought a Diamond Grey 2009 rx8. Looking to meet up with some more experienced people for some life lessons, cruises, good times, parts... etc.
I live in Cambridge/K/W area but I drive frequently all around there. My girlfriend lives in St.Catharines so I am there quite often too and anywhere along the way (Guelph/Hamilton/Burlington etc.)
London and Waterloo And Kitchener and Cambridge are all like 15-20 minutes apart.
Just doing a role call!
:)
I live in Cambridge/K/W area but I drive frequently all around there. My girlfriend lives in St.Catharines so I am there quite often too and anywhere along the way (Guelph/Hamilton/Burlington etc.)
London and Waterloo And Kitchener and Cambridge are all like 15-20 minutes apart.
Just doing a role call!
:)
Bought A 2010 Rx8 R3
Hello All,
Just bought a 2010 Rx8 R3 with 38k on her.
I am the second owner. She's very clean.
I've been into rotaries for 18 years. I build them,
modify them. I've owned both 2nd gen Rx7 turbo and NA.
And owned a white 94' Rx7. My wife and I just had a little girl
last December. So I sold the other two Rx7's this year and decided
to go with an Rx8 as it makes sense for me right now. I understand they
made many changes from model year 08' to 09+ with the Rx8 Including
the two oil metering pumps and going to 3 oil nozzles per rotor. Also understand
that the stock coils go bad right about the mileage mine is at. So probably will
be getting BHR coils soon. I've been reading on this forum for the past week.
Absorbing tons of information on the Rx8. If anyone here goes to the April
Deals Gap Rotor Rally. I will be there in my 8 Next year. I had a mint red
second gen turbo II there with really low miles in 2012.
Anyways just wanted to say Hi! :)
I'm loving my Rx8! :)
~Luke
Just bought a 2010 Rx8 R3 with 38k on her.
I am the second owner. She's very clean.
I've been into rotaries for 18 years. I build them,
modify them. I've owned both 2nd gen Rx7 turbo and NA.
And owned a white 94' Rx7. My wife and I just had a little girl
last December. So I sold the other two Rx7's this year and decided
to go with an Rx8 as it makes sense for me right now. I understand they
made many changes from model year 08' to 09+ with the Rx8 Including
the two oil metering pumps and going to 3 oil nozzles per rotor. Also understand
that the stock coils go bad right about the mileage mine is at. So probably will
be getting BHR coils soon. I've been reading on this forum for the past week.
Absorbing tons of information on the Rx8. If anyone here goes to the April
Deals Gap Rotor Rally. I will be there in my 8 Next year. I had a mint red
second gen turbo II there with really low miles in 2012.
Anyways just wanted to say Hi! :)
I'm loving my Rx8! :)
~Luke
Best Bluetooth Audio and Calls for RX8
Hi All,
I have recently purchased an RX8 (yes, wow I'm in love) and am looking to get a Bluetooth audio system put in.
Now please excuse my naivety here, I'm new to both the RX8 and these audio systems. I have done some research in to this but am getting slightly overwhelmed by which systems can and can't be fitted in to the RX8 and which is best/cheapest.
What I ideally would like to be able to do is the following:-
-Play music from my iPhone 5S via Bluetooth. (not through FM so quality is spot on)
-Make/Receive calls via the stereo system.
-If possible (saw this mentioned before), be able to skip through tracks via the controls on the steering wheel still....not a necessity...just plain cool.
Does anyone know how to fulfill these requirements for the RX8?
Thank you very much, Phil
I have recently purchased an RX8 (yes, wow I'm in love) and am looking to get a Bluetooth audio system put in.
Now please excuse my naivety here, I'm new to both the RX8 and these audio systems. I have done some research in to this but am getting slightly overwhelmed by which systems can and can't be fitted in to the RX8 and which is best/cheapest.
What I ideally would like to be able to do is the following:-
-Play music from my iPhone 5S via Bluetooth. (not through FM so quality is spot on)
-Make/Receive calls via the stereo system.
-If possible (saw this mentioned before), be able to skip through tracks via the controls on the steering wheel still....not a necessity...just plain cool.
Does anyone know how to fulfill these requirements for the RX8?
Thank you very much, Phil
MazdaPi Bought a 2009 Rx8! Info and Pics and some Questions Inside
mercredi 24 septembre 2014
Hello all. A month ago I started doing heavy research on the rx8 and rx7 thanks mostly to this site and rx7club. The information has been wonderfully helpful and informative and I plan on utilizing it and going through all the steps in the new member forum. I know how to use search and most of the issues I have currently I have already searched and won't bother including because I have found the answers.
Simply, I wanted to create a thread where I can show the car I bought, air some general concerns and some basic buying the car/safety and etest sorta questions, along with a couple of specific ones.
First things first.
Name: Darien Schettler
Education/Work: Honours in Biology with a minor and math and most of the way through a second degree in Mechanical Engineering with a specialization in Nanotechnology.
Location: K/W (Waterloo) Ontario, Canada.
Age: 23
Interesting Fact: This is the first nice car I've ever bought. All my others have been fixer upper beaters.
Secondly!
I recently scored a very good deal on a Diamond Grey Mazda RX8, 2009, with 230000 kms (A LOT I KNOW!! :P), in pristine condition. It just had a compression test done and was great, and it has always been serviced at Mazda with a full record up to my purchase date (I will include photos further down). It's the GT model (sunroof, leather, heated, etc), and it's standard.
No mods except HID fogs, and eibach lowering springs.It came etested but not safetied (my only concern really... but take risks to gain rewards).
Has a couple small scratches and scuffs and it needs a new windshield but nothing major or at least apparent, and it still looks beautiful to my eyes. :)
FIRST MAJOR CONCERN/QUESTION
So I was an idiot and didn't research the buying process as well as I should, and in Ontario, when a car is bought it isn't the purchase price that tax is paid on, it's the wholesale price. My purchase price for the vehicle was 6700. I paid tax on something around 15000. That's more than 1000 dollars extra in taxes. I found out almost immediately afterwards if I get an appraisal done then they will accept a lower purchase price and tax amount.
My QUESTION: Can I, since the car isn't fully registered (temp right now), go get it appraised and somehow get some of the tax I paid back either back into my account or as a tax credit? Also I realize not many people will be familiar with Ontario Driving Law but I'm just curious if this has happened to anyone. I searched and didn't find anything. I will call MTO (Ministry of Transportation Ontario) first thing tomorrow and ask either way. I'm pissed at myself but I had no idea :(
I should have done more research and I accept that fault as my own.
[B]Second Question![/B)
This may be dumb, but, can someone point me in the direction of the thread that deals with how/when to shift in an rx8. I've driven for about 3 years, standard. I'm not gunna say I'm the best but I get by and I've never demo'd a clutch or anything. I rev match and do all the normal things good drivers do.
The rx8 however has much different rpm points, and I'm not sure when I should be in 5th vs. 6th (never had a six speed), and I'm not sure how long or how high the rpms should go for each individual gear. I don't need it to be exact but I'd like to extend the life of my clutch/tranny as long as possible or at least treat it with respect and get better as a driver. Sorry if there is a thread for this I honestly looked but only found super basic, general driving tips.
Third VERY unique question
I understand the topic of tall drivers has been addressed numerous times. I am in fact 6'5 and have short arms, decently long legs, and a loooong torso and a big head and weigh in at 205.
I manage height wise (hair brushes the roof), but to fit my head in I have to lean the seat back, which puts my arms too far away from the wheel. If I then move my seat a bit closer to get my hands in a more natural position my knee bumps into the side of the center console.
I have read all the threads on different brackets (for height and orientation), different seats, and even reupholstering the seats and changing around the padding.
My question wasn't so much what to do in general, so much as it is which do you believe would be the best option for my particular scenario? I'm thinking getting brackets that can let the seat be an inch lower will allow be to straighten the seat a bit which will let me move the seat back a bit. But I'm not sure. I can post this question in the dump questions thread later if need be with pics of how I fit and where I'd like to be if that helps..
Last Question
I got in the car literally as soon as I pulled away I noticed the engine light come on. I HAD OBDII tested the car literally in the driveway the night before and it was clean. I went back and he said it was probably that I had both keys in the car and because they connect wirelessly or whatever, if one of them had low battery it can cause the engine light to turn on. Does anyone know if this is true? I also took the key out as soon as I got home and it hasn't cleared yet. Although I'm fairly sure it takes a full drive cycle anyway to clear. Although I dunno... Please help. Either way I'm getting it presaftied by Mazda tomorrow to see what it needs and the new windshield goes in on Monday. Thanks!
Now here are a bunch of pics! Sorry that 90% are night pics. I just got her home and that's all I could do.
[URL=http://ift.tt/1v1AEBN]
[
IMG]http://ift.tt/1qwvw20]

And here are the pics of what I believe is the Etest, and the service record...
That's about everything. I hope I didn't violate any rules or regulations. I look forward to completing all the "First Mods" to get her up to speed and me up to speed on maintenance. Let me know if anyone has questions/concerns or can think of anything I should check or be aware of. I probably am missing some super obvious stuff.
Also I am very aware that it is a high kms engine and therefore a high risk situation. I can do almost any job myself, and I put aside about 4-5000 just in case it needs an engine/tranny.
Simply, I wanted to create a thread where I can show the car I bought, air some general concerns and some basic buying the car/safety and etest sorta questions, along with a couple of specific ones.
First things first.
Name: Darien Schettler
Education/Work: Honours in Biology with a minor and math and most of the way through a second degree in Mechanical Engineering with a specialization in Nanotechnology.
Location: K/W (Waterloo) Ontario, Canada.
Age: 23
Interesting Fact: This is the first nice car I've ever bought. All my others have been fixer upper beaters.
Secondly!
I recently scored a very good deal on a Diamond Grey Mazda RX8, 2009, with 230000 kms (A LOT I KNOW!! :P), in pristine condition. It just had a compression test done and was great, and it has always been serviced at Mazda with a full record up to my purchase date (I will include photos further down). It's the GT model (sunroof, leather, heated, etc), and it's standard.
No mods except HID fogs, and eibach lowering springs.It came etested but not safetied (my only concern really... but take risks to gain rewards).
Has a couple small scratches and scuffs and it needs a new windshield but nothing major or at least apparent, and it still looks beautiful to my eyes. :)
FIRST MAJOR CONCERN/QUESTION
So I was an idiot and didn't research the buying process as well as I should, and in Ontario, when a car is bought it isn't the purchase price that tax is paid on, it's the wholesale price. My purchase price for the vehicle was 6700. I paid tax on something around 15000. That's more than 1000 dollars extra in taxes. I found out almost immediately afterwards if I get an appraisal done then they will accept a lower purchase price and tax amount.
My QUESTION: Can I, since the car isn't fully registered (temp right now), go get it appraised and somehow get some of the tax I paid back either back into my account or as a tax credit? Also I realize not many people will be familiar with Ontario Driving Law but I'm just curious if this has happened to anyone. I searched and didn't find anything. I will call MTO (Ministry of Transportation Ontario) first thing tomorrow and ask either way. I'm pissed at myself but I had no idea :(
I should have done more research and I accept that fault as my own.
[B]Second Question![/B)
This may be dumb, but, can someone point me in the direction of the thread that deals with how/when to shift in an rx8. I've driven for about 3 years, standard. I'm not gunna say I'm the best but I get by and I've never demo'd a clutch or anything. I rev match and do all the normal things good drivers do.
The rx8 however has much different rpm points, and I'm not sure when I should be in 5th vs. 6th (never had a six speed), and I'm not sure how long or how high the rpms should go for each individual gear. I don't need it to be exact but I'd like to extend the life of my clutch/tranny as long as possible or at least treat it with respect and get better as a driver. Sorry if there is a thread for this I honestly looked but only found super basic, general driving tips.
Third VERY unique question
I understand the topic of tall drivers has been addressed numerous times. I am in fact 6'5 and have short arms, decently long legs, and a loooong torso and a big head and weigh in at 205.
I manage height wise (hair brushes the roof), but to fit my head in I have to lean the seat back, which puts my arms too far away from the wheel. If I then move my seat a bit closer to get my hands in a more natural position my knee bumps into the side of the center console.
I have read all the threads on different brackets (for height and orientation), different seats, and even reupholstering the seats and changing around the padding.
My question wasn't so much what to do in general, so much as it is which do you believe would be the best option for my particular scenario? I'm thinking getting brackets that can let the seat be an inch lower will allow be to straighten the seat a bit which will let me move the seat back a bit. But I'm not sure. I can post this question in the dump questions thread later if need be with pics of how I fit and where I'd like to be if that helps..
Last Question
I got in the car literally as soon as I pulled away I noticed the engine light come on. I HAD OBDII tested the car literally in the driveway the night before and it was clean. I went back and he said it was probably that I had both keys in the car and because they connect wirelessly or whatever, if one of them had low battery it can cause the engine light to turn on. Does anyone know if this is true? I also took the key out as soon as I got home and it hasn't cleared yet. Although I'm fairly sure it takes a full drive cycle anyway to clear. Although I dunno... Please help. Either way I'm getting it presaftied by Mazda tomorrow to see what it needs and the new windshield goes in on Monday. Thanks!
Now here are a bunch of pics! Sorry that 90% are night pics. I just got her home and that's all I could do.
[URL=http://ift.tt/1v1AEBN]
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And here are the pics of what I believe is the Etest, and the service record...
That's about everything. I hope I didn't violate any rules or regulations. I look forward to completing all the "First Mods" to get her up to speed and me up to speed on maintenance. Let me know if anyone has questions/concerns or can think of anything I should check or be aware of. I probably am missing some super obvious stuff.
Also I am very aware that it is a high kms engine and therefore a high risk situation. I can do almost any job myself, and I put aside about 4-5000 just in case it needs an engine/tranny.
Oil Light
I just bought an '07 RX-8 about 2k mi ago and for some reason my oil light is on.
Here's what happened, I took a 200 mi drive to NC from Charleston and checked my oil to notice that it's a little under full so I topped it off and then the light came on. After driving for a while it turned off and stayed off until I did an oil change the following week. Now it's on and stays on.
Checked to see if it was overfilled, clean out the MAF sensor, no oil in the intake.
Here's what happened, I took a 200 mi drive to NC from Charleston and checked my oil to notice that it's a little under full so I topped it off and then the light came on. After driving for a while it turned off and stayed off until I did an oil change the following week. Now it's on and stays on.
Checked to see if it was overfilled, clean out the MAF sensor, no oil in the intake.
{ FS } RX8 Track Car
You won't find a cleaner RX8 around, let alone a cleaner track car. There is nothing wrong with it, the car runs great, and I plan to run it at another event or 2 this season. Photos, and information on the build are well documented in my build thread. The car is available for viewing by appointment, and only to serious buyers. Vehicle is located in Toronto, Canada, and mileage listed is in KM's!!
I'm selling it because I've got my eye on a different car. This is a racecar, it is not street legal, and will take A LOT of work to ever be street legal again. See my build thread for more pics/info on the car.
Best lap times on Hankook RS3 street tires:
-CTMP GP Track: 1:37.0
-TMP: 1:20.9
-CTMP DDT (1-kink): 1:31.8
-CTMP DDT (2-kinks): 1:39.1
YouTube Channel: http://ift.tt/1u2lwFe
$17,000
I'm selling it because I've got my eye on a different car. This is a racecar, it is not street legal, and will take A LOT of work to ever be street legal again. See my build thread for more pics/info on the car.
Best lap times on Hankook RS3 street tires:
-CTMP GP Track: 1:37.0
-TMP: 1:20.9
-CTMP DDT (1-kink): 1:31.8
-CTMP DDT (2-kinks): 1:39.1
YouTube Channel: http://ift.tt/1u2lwFe
$17,000
{ FS } 2004 Titanium Gray Rx8 for Sale/Partout - CHEAP
Decided to make a new updated thread now that all is ready to go, mods feel free to close previous thread.
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Alright guys, so I'm deciding to let go of my 2004 GT, already bought another 8. The engine on this one still runs; it is beginning to have slow warm starts.
The car has 127k miles, but has been very well maintained. Located in Wernersville, PA, 19565. Some rust on underside. Some rust on the drivers side rear wheel well. Other than that, the paint job was fresh done last year. Car got hit with some freak hail so some panels have minor denting. Pics will be provided although it is very hard to see in pictures since it's minimal.
It's been heavily modified for majority of it's life, there was about $10k in aftermarket parts on the car that have been removed, some of which will be sold. The car is currently undrivable because of the removed parts (that I plan on selling separately) but if you would like to purchase the car + all the parts we can work something out. Have all the parts to get it running and built back up, however I am planning on keeping the body kit pieces (So you can buy the full car in pieces, missing front bumper, hood, skirts, rear bumper, wing). All offers will be considered.
I'm willing to give a good deal on this to get it gone quick. This car would be a great deal for someone looking to part it out and turn a profit, or for someone that would like to build it back up on their own time. Title is ready to go.
Please post here or PM me for more information and to discuss an offer.
Asking price is $2500 (because i'm required to post one) obviously negotiable
The parts that have been removed from the car (and are for sale with or without it) are:
- New Exedy Stage 1 Clutch kit, only 2k miles on it $350 obo
- Red AEM cold air intake, only 2k miles on it $300 obo
- Greddy catback exhaust $450 obo
- OEM catalytic converter $150 obo
- Ignition coils + NGK wires $120 obo
- Trunk sub enclosure + sub + amp (Alpine brand)
- OEM carbon fiber drive shaft $200 obo
- Stock headunit with AUX hookup $100 obo
- Several sets of wheels for sale winter & summer setup, contact for pics/prices
Here's what the car looked like before I had it torn apart:
Here's how the car currently sits:
----------
Alright guys, so I'm deciding to let go of my 2004 GT, already bought another 8. The engine on this one still runs; it is beginning to have slow warm starts.
The car has 127k miles, but has been very well maintained. Located in Wernersville, PA, 19565. Some rust on underside. Some rust on the drivers side rear wheel well. Other than that, the paint job was fresh done last year. Car got hit with some freak hail so some panels have minor denting. Pics will be provided although it is very hard to see in pictures since it's minimal.
It's been heavily modified for majority of it's life, there was about $10k in aftermarket parts on the car that have been removed, some of which will be sold. The car is currently undrivable because of the removed parts (that I plan on selling separately) but if you would like to purchase the car + all the parts we can work something out. Have all the parts to get it running and built back up, however I am planning on keeping the body kit pieces (So you can buy the full car in pieces, missing front bumper, hood, skirts, rear bumper, wing). All offers will be considered.
I'm willing to give a good deal on this to get it gone quick. This car would be a great deal for someone looking to part it out and turn a profit, or for someone that would like to build it back up on their own time. Title is ready to go.
Please post here or PM me for more information and to discuss an offer.
Asking price is $2500 (because i'm required to post one) obviously negotiable
The parts that have been removed from the car (and are for sale with or without it) are:
- New Exedy Stage 1 Clutch kit, only 2k miles on it $350 obo
- Red AEM cold air intake, only 2k miles on it $300 obo
- Greddy catback exhaust $450 obo
- OEM catalytic converter $150 obo
- Ignition coils + NGK wires $120 obo
- Trunk sub enclosure + sub + amp (Alpine brand)
- OEM carbon fiber drive shaft $200 obo
- Stock headunit with AUX hookup $100 obo
- Several sets of wheels for sale winter & summer setup, contact for pics/prices
Here's what the car looked like before I had it torn apart:
Here's how the car currently sits:
{WTB} Carbon Fiber Side Skirts
Lemme know what you have! Located in 08527. Looking for a set in good condition.
Got a compression test, looking for knowledge
Hey all,
First off, thank you for the wealth of information on this forum. It has helped me sort out a lot of questions I had and fixes I needed.
I have an 04, 6-speed, 115k miles, just changed the coils/wires/plugs/oil and filter.
So I got a compression test done this morning: 6.7/6.6/6.3 @272 (rotor 1) and 7.2/7.3/7.1 @283 (rotor 2).
I know that rotor 1 is getting weak, so that's why I'm here. I haven't noticed a significant loss of power nor weird fluids in odd places. There is sometimes a sputter above 8k RPMs, though I suspect that is my fuel pump getting old. The only CEL I have is from the O2 sensor, and I've had one misfire (blinking CEL). I also drive pretty aggressively and premix with premium fuel.
I'm looking for what I can do from here on out. I want the engine to last until the spring, at which point I was planning on putting in a different engine anyway. How can I make sure this happens? How should I drive for the next ~5,000 miles?
Thank you,
-ddsneversummer
First off, thank you for the wealth of information on this forum. It has helped me sort out a lot of questions I had and fixes I needed.
I have an 04, 6-speed, 115k miles, just changed the coils/wires/plugs/oil and filter.
So I got a compression test done this morning: 6.7/6.6/6.3 @272 (rotor 1) and 7.2/7.3/7.1 @283 (rotor 2).
I know that rotor 1 is getting weak, so that's why I'm here. I haven't noticed a significant loss of power nor weird fluids in odd places. There is sometimes a sputter above 8k RPMs, though I suspect that is my fuel pump getting old. The only CEL I have is from the O2 sensor, and I've had one misfire (blinking CEL). I also drive pretty aggressively and premix with premium fuel.
I'm looking for what I can do from here on out. I want the engine to last until the spring, at which point I was planning on putting in a different engine anyway. How can I make sure this happens? How should I drive for the next ~5,000 miles?
Thank you,
-ddsneversummer
{ FS } Machined Rotor Housings
For sale are a pair of rotor housings. They have been CNC machined by Freelance Motorsports which is a $500+ affair after round trip shipping and supplying your own housings to them.
They are from a 2005 6MT and motor was pulled at approx. 104k miles. No catastrophic failure, I just wanted to rebuild for more power. Ended up going with a 13b-REW swap instead so I don't need these.
Price is $500 via paypal, which INCLUDES paypal fees and shipping to the lower 48 states.
What you see is what you get. All sales final. One housing has a tiny crack on leading spark plug hole, the other housing has a small bit of flaking on one bottom edge.
The camera flash makes the surface look a bit weird so I included a couple shots with no flash to show what it actually looks like.
They are from a 2005 6MT and motor was pulled at approx. 104k miles. No catastrophic failure, I just wanted to rebuild for more power. Ended up going with a 13b-REW swap instead so I don't need these.
Price is $500 via paypal, which INCLUDES paypal fees and shipping to the lower 48 states.
What you see is what you get. All sales final. One housing has a tiny crack on leading spark plug hole, the other housing has a small bit of flaking on one bottom edge.
The camera flash makes the surface look a bit weird so I included a couple shots with no flash to show what it actually looks like.
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