Okay so my 05 shinka is on it's last leg on the engine. I need to take it in to the dealer to get the engine swapped out but I'm procrastinating a little bit. I'm 99% certain compression is shot on at least 1 rotor. I get about 7mpg, feels like i'm driving a camry, won't start above 180*, idle feels choppy, and more. But the issue I'm having is i'm trying to get everything buttoned up before i take it in so they can't tell me I somehow caused the engine to die.
I have a weird noise that started up recently. I had the radiator changed about a week and a half ago as the reservoir broke right where the cap turns on and my assistant when I was replacing it snapped the nipple off the top of the radiator. The car did run hot, about 235-237, but the gauge barely moved and I don't believe it overheated. It started right up and has driven fine for the past week and a half and 250 miles.
Just yesterday I went to go from a stop and noticed as I was letting the clutch out; what sounded like a metallic grinding. It seemed to go away once the clutch was all the way out and going but it seemed to come back in second. I couldn't hear it after because of engine noise and wind noise. When I came to a stop I checked everything that could be rubbing, no hoses, no lines, no wires, no shrouds, no screws, no pulleys, no belts, nothing showed signs of rubbing. Checked all wheel wells and everything.
While under the hood I noticed a weird rattle coming from the intake manifold area. Imagine a plate of dry rice sitting on a subwoofer, a rattle/tinkling noise was very audible. I know the intake valves can stick open and closed from carbon buildup but I was always told that if you vary the throttle position it will rarely stick. Plus at idle I wouldn't think that the rattle would be that pronounced and even then, if that is the case, I wouldn't think the car would be drive-able with that much rattle going on.
It doesn't sound NEARLY as pronounced as MIAC and it isn't audible inside the car. I almost thought it was low oil as the grinding seemed to match the cars rpm up until it stops, so i thought maybe it wasn't lubricating properly. but oil is topped off 100% less that 500 miles ago and I check it every 100 miles when i refill the tank. I don't premix and I use 5w20. Is this rattle just a symptom of a dying engine? Should i be worried about something else?
Also as a bonus question, I have no catalytic converter, the previous owner gutted it. This poses an issue getting the engine warrantied as the CEL is on for that o2 sensor. I plan on getting an exhaust system put on it so I'd rather not drop money onto a cat that will only be on there for 6mo-yr and potentially even cause more problems on the new engine. Is there a way I can just rig a resistor into the o2 sensor wiring so that the ecu thinks it's getting the right response and the CEL goes away? I'm going wideband and cobb accessport with the new engine so it wouldn't be anything permanent, just a temporary deal to get the CEL gone.
I have a weird noise that started up recently. I had the radiator changed about a week and a half ago as the reservoir broke right where the cap turns on and my assistant when I was replacing it snapped the nipple off the top of the radiator. The car did run hot, about 235-237, but the gauge barely moved and I don't believe it overheated. It started right up and has driven fine for the past week and a half and 250 miles.
Just yesterday I went to go from a stop and noticed as I was letting the clutch out; what sounded like a metallic grinding. It seemed to go away once the clutch was all the way out and going but it seemed to come back in second. I couldn't hear it after because of engine noise and wind noise. When I came to a stop I checked everything that could be rubbing, no hoses, no lines, no wires, no shrouds, no screws, no pulleys, no belts, nothing showed signs of rubbing. Checked all wheel wells and everything.
While under the hood I noticed a weird rattle coming from the intake manifold area. Imagine a plate of dry rice sitting on a subwoofer, a rattle/tinkling noise was very audible. I know the intake valves can stick open and closed from carbon buildup but I was always told that if you vary the throttle position it will rarely stick. Plus at idle I wouldn't think that the rattle would be that pronounced and even then, if that is the case, I wouldn't think the car would be drive-able with that much rattle going on.
It doesn't sound NEARLY as pronounced as MIAC and it isn't audible inside the car. I almost thought it was low oil as the grinding seemed to match the cars rpm up until it stops, so i thought maybe it wasn't lubricating properly. but oil is topped off 100% less that 500 miles ago and I check it every 100 miles when i refill the tank. I don't premix and I use 5w20. Is this rattle just a symptom of a dying engine? Should i be worried about something else?
Also as a bonus question, I have no catalytic converter, the previous owner gutted it. This poses an issue getting the engine warrantied as the CEL is on for that o2 sensor. I plan on getting an exhaust system put on it so I'd rather not drop money onto a cat that will only be on there for 6mo-yr and potentially even cause more problems on the new engine. Is there a way I can just rig a resistor into the o2 sensor wiring so that the ecu thinks it's getting the right response and the CEL goes away? I'm going wideband and cobb accessport with the new engine so it wouldn't be anything permanent, just a temporary deal to get the CEL gone.
Need some help narrowing down a bothersome noise in the engine bay.
0 commentaires:
Enregistrer un commentaire