{ FS } Parting Out RX8

For Sale:

Parting out instead. The list below will grow a little as I take things off, so check back later for more.

-Koni Sport Shocks (springs not included)
-Single adjustable, 60k miles, adjuster **** included.
-No leaks, no sagging when compressed by hand, nor nothing wrong with them when I removed them.

Price: $250 obo (or better offer).

Located in Fresno, CA
Message me for offers. Pickups preferred but can ship with additional cost on buyer's end.

RX8 (1 of 3) by miata2159, on Flickr

RX8 (2 of 3) by miata2159, on Flickr

RX8 (3 of 3) by miata2159, on Flickr

{ FS } Parting Out RX8

Sweetheart Ride Road Rally, February 18

SWEETHEART RIDE ROAD RALLY

Your Texas Region SCCA Rally Committee presents the Sweetheart Ride Road Rally -- a fun drive in the country with some puzzles to solve and a schedule to meet.

The date is Saturday, February 18th, with registration open at 9:00am. You may participate in any street-legal car but... make it something that you will have fun driving on back roads (i.e. some may be a little rough). All roads are paved (but some are just oil and chip).

On site registration will be at Buc-ee's rest stop (www.buc-ees.com), 15901 N. Freeway, Fort Worth, TX 76177. The finish will be at Ranchman's Ponder Steakhouse (Ranchman's Cafe - The Ponder Steakhouse ), 110 West Bailey, Ponder, TX 76259. This is a world renowned steakhouse and it is a great place to take your sweetheart and your car.

Course following will be easy. There are no course traps. The challenge is finding puzzle solutions based on signs or objects along your route. As many of you know, that can be tough even though everything you need to see is right there in plain sight. To help make sure you aren't late at the finish, you will be given plenty of helpful timing information. Timing is to the minute. If you do everything correctly you will avoid penalty points and get a perfect score of zero (0).

Please go to Sweetheart Ride Road Rally info on Feb 18, 2017 (066983) | MotorsportReg.com for all the details. If you like what you see, you can register right there....just page down and click on Continue. Only $25 for 3-1/2 hours of seat time! SCCA members $20.

The General Instructions for the rally will be posted as soon as they are ready (coming around February 8, 2017; watch this space). In addition, any addenda to them will be posted here (coming on February 16th or 17th).

Join us!

Jerry White

Sweetheart Ride Road Rally, February 18

{ FS } Greddy turbo kit and accessories

Up for sale is a Greddy kit with BNR upgrade T04e. Welded Greddy manifold and upgraded Treadstone couplers and Tbolt clamps.


Reasons for selling is I am rebuilding my motor due to goopy apex seals that only lasted 500 miles with build. I am giving up on turbo charging the renesis and will focus on a ported NA setup for a good suttle track car. I will be focusing more on my speed6 build for power and traction instead. I am sure someone will love to own this kit especially with the upgrades and fixes already applied.


Looking to get $2500 shipped, I reside in the south suburbs of Chicago land area and am open to local pickup.


Kit has HKS 4# yellow filter
Greddy BOV 38mm
BNR turbo with less than 5k on it and was purchased for $1170 new
100mm braided stainless steel line with fittings
Intercooler with custom made brackets
Treadstone couplers with tbolt clamps ( Paid $150 for them)
Has greddy down pipe but do not have the bracket never got it with my kit


Extras I have and willing to sell:
KG parts Denso yellow p2 and secondary flow matched injectors 860cc $50 shipped
S2 P1 densor green injectors 440cc $40 shipped
Racing beat oil filter sandwhich plate $30 shipped


Maybe selling cobb accessport but need to find stock tune

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{ FS } Greddy turbo kit and accessories

Like Notifications won't disable.

Even when I disable them, I come back after saving and the like notifications are enabled again. Anyone else having this issue?

Like Notifications won't disable.

After 12 years the mind wanders...thinking of buying a Grand Sport

I STILL love my RX8, as it sits all warm on its 4 post lift. But I never owned a car for this long, and with 50 approaching next year I'm thinking - is it time? I've since bought a truck and a convertible, but is it finally time for... a new sports car?

I feel especially sleazy that I'm considering a Vette, with all the a-hole old guy stereotypes, but the C7 was the first Vette to peak my interest, the Grand Sport especially.

So this summer, one of the last original owners could be gone! Who does that leave on here?

After 12 years the mind wanders...thinking of buying a Grand Sport

Cat Converter Hole - Have a look!

2007 with 130,000KM. New s2 fuel pump, bhr ignition upgrade, and (new) rebuilt engine after car wouldn't start due to low compression for one of the rotors. While installing the new engine I was sent this pics from my dealer. They advised something I need to address but not affected performance of the cat at the moment. They checked the temp to make sure was in range.

Question is considering all the new parts, should I be getting on this sooner then later?

Thank you!

Cat Converter Hole - Have a look!

Toyota to get back into the Sports Car Game

Toyota Will Reveal a Supra Concept Plus Two Other Sports Cars in October

Toyota to get back into the Sports Car Game

{ FS } Cobb Accessport

I have a Cobb Accessport for sale. 300 bucks shipped in the US. It has a few minor scratches but nothing major. It's unmarried and ready to go. It will include both cables.

{ FS } Cobb Accessport

Fuel gauge not reading correctly/consistently/at all (engine-swap content)

The fuel gauge isn't reading correctly/consistently or at all on occasion & there's no consistent pattern to it that I've been able to figure out after 4 months of driving around in it. :wallbash:

A few facts to give background to this...

- I've swapped a 13B-MSP 6-port & running gear from a Series 1 RX8 into my MK3 MX5/Miata
- The clocks are the RX8 ones (thankfully the 2 connectors are the same but the wiring is slightly different for a few things which we've sorted so-far)
- The fuel pump & sender are the RX8 ones (I know there's a 2nd sender on the other side of the RX8 tank) with the fuel tank lid being the MX5 one; a custom-engineered job has been done to fit the RX8 lower fuel cradle to the MX5 upper fuel cradle lid but the connectors from the tank-side to the top-side are the same.

Two main questions:
1) What parameters, signals, etc does the fuel gauge need to read correctly?

2) Can the 2nd fuel sender in the non-pump-side of the tank be emulated somehow using only 1 side sensor+wiring?

Fuel gauge not reading correctly/consistently/at all (engine-swap content)

Is this a hot start issue?

2010 RX8 GT 6psd MT...57098 miles, i bought it 3 months ago at a Toyota dealer, but they had it recondition and checked by a Mazda dealer right accross the street before putting it up for sale when it had 52056 miles...

usual crank start 2-3 seconds

Ive noticed an intermitent longer cranking 5-8 seconds when engine is hot, but usually still starts 2-3 seconds...like i leave the car for 10-30 minutes then start it back up.

i heard hot start are usually 15-30 seconds before it starts...

im wondering if this is my case too?

im more leaning towards ignition... I dont belive the coils have ever been replaced and plugs too... On top of that the battery is a OEM replaced back in June 2012...

Is this a hot start issue?

Best Deep-Cycle Battery

What is the best battery for an after market sound system?

Best Deep-Cycle Battery

Police Scanner App for Ohioans

Hello Rx8Club members,

If you an Ohio resident, I've launched "Ohio Police Radio" a FREE download for iPhone users. It streams live police scanners in each county and city along with Fire and Ems. In the next 30 days I'll be releasing a complete USA police scanner app.

Let me know what you guys think about the application.

http://ift.tt/2kK9RwG

Police Scanner App for Ohioans

Fuel pressure gauge with aeromotive quick connect

I have the aeromotive quick connect to monitor fuel pressure, where do you guys run it from? All the way from the fuel pump or is there a quicker way to the dash? where I want the gauge placed

Fuel pressure gauge with aeromotive quick connect

{ FS } Interceptor X EMS

I have a brand new Interceptor X EMS from Mazsport for sale. Comes with only the module, as shown in the pictures. $800 obo.

I also have 2 used ones from previous race cars. $600 obo.

Willing to ship anywhere with USPS. Medium flat rate box, packaged with care. I can do local pickup to anywhere in Central or South Florida.

I will accept cash or PayPal.

I do not support Mazsport, nor do I like the company after reading some of the posts about them on this forum. Do not ask me about them, or about their products. Do your own research.

The units come AS IS. I will CONSIDER refunds if proven that the units are defunct. Know that there is a risk with any electronic items that are plugged into modified cars. Keep this in mind if you consider purchasing these modules.

I love rotary cars, and the enthusiasts who drive them. I will always look for solutions if any problems arise during the transaction.

Post here, or PM me. Thanks for viewing!!

Attached Thumbnails

   

{ FS } Interceptor X EMS

{ FS } Handbrakes

I have two RX-8 handbrakes for sale. One is out of a base model S4 (non-leather) and it is fully in tact. The 2nd is a leather wrapped version with red stitching out of an S2 R3, which has the forward trim flap broken off, unfortunately like so many.

Either one $30 shipped to the contiguous 48.

Attached Thumbnails

   

{ FS } Handbrakes

One-time, extended cold start?

As the title states I left my car outside tonight for a few hours and when I got back in, the gauge was definitely fully cold. When I went to fire it up, I was surprised at how long it took (about 3 seconds) opposed to the immediate fire up. I have a 04 with 11k miles, new plugs / wires / coils.

The only thing I changed recently was the intake. I installed the AEM intake the other day, and the car was driving excellent and pulling hard. Today I played around with it and cleaned my MAF, straightened the screened couplers, etc. During yesterdays install I unplugged the battery and reconnected it. I proceeded to reset the NVram and do the 20 stomp reset. I had no issues earlier today.

On the way home, after the longer than usual start, it drove fine. No lights, pulled fine, etc. I even stopped right before my house to give it a hot start test - fired right up as it always does. Any idea what would cause this, especially on a cold start? I figure my starter is still healthy, so perhaps the PCM reset / AEM intake install could've affected it? I did fill up with new gas today too but it's 93 oct. Thoughts?

One-time, extended cold start?

Columbus ga area

Is anybody that's within 100 miles still on this fourm...

Columbus ga area

{ FS } OEM intake box / tubes / vfad and K&N very low miles

Off my 04' GT with only 11k miles:

OEM intake box / tubing
K&N filter with less than 1k miles
VFAD and connecting lines

I recently purchased and installed an AEM intake, so these parts are now for sale. There is absolutely nothing wrong with anything. I just don't want them taking up space forever.

Asking $100 for everything listed. Thanks.

Also for sale, OEM catback - $100 obo

{ FS } OEM intake box / tubes / vfad and K&N very low miles

{ FS } FS: Wheels/Winter Tires

Hello,


I have a set of wheels and winter tires for sale. Tires are MichelinPrimacy Alpin PA3 225-50-17. Plenty of tread left, i would guess 85%. Wheels are 5x4.5 (114.3). I used them on my R3.


Asking $700.

{ FS } FS: Wheels/Winter Tires

Road and Track's First drive impressions of MX5-RF

This is not the first review of the RF, but is Road and Track's First Drive/Road Test, Enjoy

Mazda MX-5 Miata RF First Drive - Miata Hardtop Road Test

Road and Track's First drive impressions of MX5-RF

{ FS } 2010 Red GT, 46k miles

Putting her up for sale.

2010 Grand Touring, Manual
46k miles
Black Leather Interior
6-disc changer, XM, Bluetooth
Sunroof
Tires: Hankook Ventus S1 Noble2, ~9,000 miles on them. They have a 5 year/50k mile tread warranty

Oil changes every 7,500 miles at Mazda dealer
All fluids flushed at 30k (brake, manual transmission oil, coolant) by dealer
Ignition coils, plugs, and wires replaced at 37.5k

I'll throw in an extra set of rear brake pads

I think I'm asking a fair price, I'll listen to reasonable offers and ignore any lowballs. No trades.

Located in Raleigh, NC.

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{ FS } 2010 Red GT, 46k miles

{WTB} 4080 Style Sub box(s)

Since 4080 enclosures isn't around anymore - I'm looking for custom sub boxes that fit on the side of the trunk - either side or both. With or without subs. PM me with offers with shipping to 37069

{WTB} 4080 Style Sub box(s)

Where to get premix apart from ebay?

Where can I buy idemitsu premix apart from ebay? Shipping fee are tough!

Where to get premix apart from ebay?

{WTB} Series 2 Transmission

Looking for a s2 trans, low mileage. Thanks!

{WTB} Series 2 Transmission

Replacing just stock amp with aftermarket

Can I replace my stock amp with an aftermarket amp like Kicker 11DX400.4? Would it be plug and play? I already upgraded my tweeters and rears with alpines

Replacing just stock amp with aftermarket

Mazda USA Senior VP Robert Davis ‘Reassigned’

Saw this pop up on my Google Now feed last night.
Kinda surprised Ash or Zoom hadn't posted it yet.


Mazda USA Senior VP Robert Davis ‘Reassigned’ After A Rough 2016

Quote:

Mazda’s U.S. senior vice president for operations has been reassigned to a role in special assignments. It does not appear to be a promotion. Robert Davis, who held the position for more than half a decade, will no longer oversee all operations but will rather “lead teams in the ever-growing areas of recall compliance and cybersecurity, ” as well as legislation, regulations, and compliance. Preaching patience, Mazda’s North American CEO Masahiro Moro revealed just last summer that, “it will take Mazda two complete generations of new vehicles to fully transform itself.” Patience may have waned, however, as the U.S. auto industry surged to an all-time record sales high in 2016 and Mazda volume tumbled 7 percent, driving the brand’s market share down to just 1.7 percent. That was no way to successfully follow-up 2015’s performance, when Davis-led Mazda USA grew volume to a 21-year high. 2016 certainly had potential for Mazda, with a new MX-5 Miata picking up steam, a highly regarded replacement for the CX-9 after the first-generation was allowed to linger for nearly a decade, and a full calendar year for the new CX-3. But the MX-5 is a niche player. The CX-9‘s ramp-up has been slow; only twice did Mazda report more than 2,000 monthly CX-9 sales in 2016, a feat the automaker accomplished six times with the thoroughly outdated first-gen CX-9 in 2013. And the CX-3, despite explosive growth in the subcompact crossover segment, hasn’t caught fire. The bigger problem, of course, is that Mazda’s car sales plunged. While the symptoms are similar across the market, industry-wide volume was down 9 percent. Mazda’s already-small car lineup slid 14 percent compared with 2015. The Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 combined to lose nearly 25,000 sales. Added to the 53-year-old Davis’s new role will be the coaching of a next generation of executives. Masahiro Moro said these changes are occurring so Mazda can “seize more than our fair share of this market shift,” and “to mentor new leaders and give those leaders a chance to play a part in the next chapter of the company’s success in the U.S.” Moro says he will be “leaning heavily on Robert Davis to tap into his nearly 30 years of Mazda experience.” Meanwhile, Mazda’s Ron Stettner, who was the vice president for sales and retail operations, has left the company. His replacement is Tom Donnelly. All of the changes are effective immediately. A replacement for Robert Davis has not yet been announced. When Davis was installed in as senior vice president for U.S. operations, Mazda’s then-North American CEO Jim O’Sullivan, said the organization was being reshaped “to fully realize Mazda’s U.S. growth potential in the next few years.” O’Sullivan retired at the end of 2015.

article: Mazda USA Senior VP Robert Davis 'Reassigned' After A Rough 2016

Mazda USA Senior VP Robert Davis ‘Reassigned’

{ FS } 2004 rx8 6sp manual rebuilt engine HIDs lthr int.

I have for sale an 04 rx8 6 speed manual. This was originally an automatic car but I swapped both the engine and trans etc. The chassis (and original instrument cluster) have 103k miles.

I rebuilt a 6 port manual engine and swapped it in. The engine got B condition used rotor housings, oem apex seals/corner seals/side seals cut to length/springs/main bearings/viton oil control orings/oem coolant seals/atkins thermal pellet. The oil coolers got all their fins straightened and a new -10AN stainless steel oil cooler line replacement kit so you never have to worry about the factory oil cooler pipes rusting and leaking oil. The rebuilt engine has about 75 miles on it so far and runs great. Hot starts take about 2 seconds currently and this will improve with more break in mileage on the engine. The coils and wires were recently replaced from what I can tell but I do not know their exact age or mileage.

The swap also got a new starter, a stainless braided clutch fluid hose, and a reinforced clutch pedal. I installed a VERY nice original shift **** and boot and changed all the pedals, and I swapped in a manual instrument cluster (showing 50k on the odo) so the swap appears stock and no one could ever tell this was not an original manual car. The original auto cluster (showing 103k) is included with sale and will be installed in the car when the owner takes possession for legal reasons (swapping the cluster takes about 90 seconds, no tools, and two harness plugs).

The car has red and black leather with heated front seats and power driver seat. The car has power sliding sunroof and bose cd player stereo. I removed the door panel bose amps for the subwoofers and rebuilt the amps with new relays so they would work again, this is a common rx8 failure. The car has HID/xenon headlights and factory fog lights. I sanded and polished the headlights clear again so they look nice and improve visibility. I removed all the faded old black trim on the car and repainted it satin black for a cleaner, newer appearance. I polished the chrome exhaust tips. The wheels are very clean with light curb marks and are off a 50k mile car (someone had painted the original wheels on this car ugly flat black). The tires are about 40% tread front and 60% rear dunlop directionals, they will need replaced in a few months or a couple years due to age but they ride fine and should last you spring and summer. Brakes and suspension feel tight and normal. ALL of the original plastics under the front nose of the car are in place and securely attached, a rarity for rx8s these days.

The paint on the rear wing is badly faded and turning gray. Someone has painted all the emblems flat black. There is a small crease and paint scuff on the left corner of the bumper cover that is barely visible. As with all rx8s the passenger side dash airbag cover is cracked significantly. There is mild wear on some interior parts such as scratches on the door panels, wear on the red leather inserts on the seats, and some of the silver paint rubbed off of the center console. I do have another center console from a parts car that the buyer can have if they want it, or it would be easy to repaint the existing center console in the car.

Selling for $5900 cash, no checks, no trades. Clean TN title ready to sign over. Located in Morristown, TN. I'm available most weekdays 12-8pm EST or saturday afternoons 12-3 for pickup.

{ FS } 2004 rx8 6sp manual rebuilt engine HIDs lthr int.

New Member Compression Questions

I am looking at a 2011 Sport manual 8. It has 22k miles and is appears to be in superior mechanical condition. There are a few dents but I am restoring a 240z and have already learned about panel repair. I drove it reved well no engine lights. the seller is private and had an inspection done for brakes, suspension, belts, exhaust, tires, and fluids but no compression test.

I understand the engine is under warranty for 8 years so until 6/19 (car sold in 6/11) or 100k miles. Should I go pay for a compression test?

I am almost 90% in on the 8 at this point should I buy one of these testers from Rotary Compression Tester and just do it myself? Has anyone used this tester? Is it good? I am pretty obsessive about my cars so I think it would be a good investment if it works as I would likely check compression every 6 months or so.

New Member Compression Questions

New (Kinda) Member Introduction

Hey RX-8 Lovers and Rotary Enthusiasts!

I just wanted to introduce myself to the community and get started on the forum!

I'm a university student at Arizona State University and I've had an '04 RX-8 for about 3 years now... and it has been blown for 2.5 of those years. :sad:

I've ghosted these forums for the years that I've been in possession of my 8, and even created an account once (awhile ago) and posted all the newbie questions like "How can me getz moar powa?".

Anyways, I'm back after a few years of research, reading, studying, and saving to hopefully (finally) start my rebuilding project soon! It will be a difficult time, but I'm hoping to turn it into a research project for my undergrad in Automotive Engineering for the next semester. I would love to pick the brains of some of the members here, and maybe help build some background before I set this project in motion.

As of yet, all I have are ideas, but plan on working out the kinks in the coming months to have a solid plan. I hope I can get this project rolling, and possibly provide the rotary community with some solid and helpful research, and a fixed motor for myself ;) . (No topic quite yet, still brainstorming)

I look forward to chatting with everyone! :D

New (Kinda) Member Introduction

The car sometimes disconnected from power when starting

my car sometimes disconnect from power itself when starting up. But then after i reconnected to the power a couple times. it starts up and runs normally. Why is it like that?

The car sometimes disconnected from power when starting

{WTB} BHR Ignition

looking for a set of bhr coils new or used, if used prefer lower miles but will consider all offers. looking to buy asap. thanks in advance!

{WTB} BHR Ignition

Help please! Compression test results

So I put a deposit down on a 2005 RX8 GT with 61k km on the odometer, sale pending compression test results. Compression test results are as follows:

rotor 1: 6.5, 6.7, 6.3 kg/cm2 @ 229 rpm
rotor 2: 6.8, 6.8, 6.8 kg/cm2 @ 230 rpm

I got photographs of the compression test results from the testing unit itself. I don't believe these have been normalized at all.

So if I read the compression testing guide correctly, here's what I end up with (I got the altitude of the dealership from Google Earth :P):

Rotor 1
Foxed.ca Rotary Compression Calculator Results

************************************************** **********
Initial Data:
Face 1: 6.5 PSI
Face 2: 6.7 PSI
Face 3: 6.3 PSI
Cranking RPM: 229
Altitude: 440 Feet
Engine: 13B Renesis 04*11
Compression Ratio: 10
************************************************** **********
Corrected Values:
Face 1: 7.16 PSI
Face 2: 7.38 PSI
Face 3: 6.94 PSI

Rotor 2
Foxed.ca Rotary Compression Calculator Results
************************************************** **********
Initial Data:
Face 1: 6.8 PSI
Face 2: 6.8 PSI
Face 3: 6.8 PSI
Cranking RPM: 230
Altitude: 440 Feet
Engine: 13B Renesis 04*11
Compression Ratio: 10
************************************************** **********
Corrected Values:
Face 1: 7.47 PSI
Face 2: 7.47 PSI
Face 3: 7.47 PSI


It looks to me like the one rotor is borderline, but not sure how serious it is.. Experts of the interwebs, please tell me if I should buy this car!

Thanks in advance!

Help please! Compression test results

Wheels & Tires

Hi,

I recently picked up a 2004 RX8.

The previous owner changed the wheels and tires. However, they are not the same size in the front and back; looking for a little help here.

I see a few few options here:

1) Wider front wheels to match the rear wheels.

2) Wider rear tires in a 35 instead of a 40 sidewall.

3) Narrower rear wheels to match the front wheels.

The front and rear tires are 255/40/18. The front wheels are 18x8.75. The rear wheels are 18x9.75.


Whatcha' y'all think?

Wheels & Tires

Gents: CEL caused by oil overfill. Drained oil & it cleared CEL... BUT?

Okay, I'm not sure how his happened, but there was about a quart overfill on my 2005 6MT Rex.

I've not only had no reliability issues, but this is the first CEL my 8 has thrown in 11 1/2 years.

So I go to a friend who helps me out (and I help him out on stuff), and he pulls the code which reads:

"P2070 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Stuck Open Bank 1"

So we proceed to drain 1 quart of oil, so that oil on disptick is just below full level. He and I agree that since the motor isn't misbehaving, I should go and rev the sh*t out of it on a long ride, and try to free up the stuck valve (IF that's the real issue).

So only into 2 miles of driving, the CEL goes away. I shut down the car and wait for about 15 minutes, and the CEL does NOT come back on.

I proceed to drive the car for another 10 miles or so with no problems whatsoever, on surface roads, highways. etc. No idle issues, strange noises - nothing.

Here are my questions:

Should I check the MAF Sensor?

Should I check the air filter to see if oil soaked it due to the overfill?

Should I run some Chevron Techron Concentrate (black bottle) through a tank of fresh gas now?

What other potential problems could this have caused, even though I made sure to drain the overfill literally within 20 minutes of the CEL coming on, the car is running great, and the CEL hasn't back on with the oil at the proper level now?

THANKS BROS.

Gents: CEL caused by oil overfill. Drained oil & it cleared CEL... BUT?

{WTB} 2006+ rx-8

Looking to buy a 2006 or newer RX-8 I'm in the GTA.

-Must have clean title sorry just don't want a car that's been in an accident.
-Under 125000km on engine, any amount of km on body is OK.
-Preferably NON BLACK colour.
-Under $8500 but I'm willing to pay more for 2009 R3 and 2010+.
-Must be manual.

{WTB} 2006+ rx-8

{ FS } Suspension Parts: Koni Sport dampers, Hotchkis swaybars

Up for sale are some lightly-used suspension components.

Koni Sport ("Yellow") shocks
Installed 3/2016, replaced with coilovers 10/2016. They have about 7k miles on them with about 50 autocross runs and 3 trackdays.
$400 + shipping (TR has these for $592 + shipping)

Hotchkis RX-8 front swaybar with mounting brackets
This sucker is huge and was installed 8/2015 and remove 8/2016.
$100 + shipping (TR has them for $167 + shipping on closeout special)

Hotchkis NC MX-5 rear swaybar with mounting brackets (pictures when I get around to removing it)
Installed 10/2016
$100 + shipping (TR has them for $167 + shipping, special order)

Buy the whole shebang for $600 and I'll throw in a set of OE sport springs and free shipping to the continental US.

{ FS } Suspension Parts: Koni Sport dampers, Hotchkis swaybars

Trouble starting after huge rain over weekend(vented hood)

Last time I drove my 2007rx8 friday(4days ago), everything appeared fine. Huge downpour all weekend. Try to start the car yesterday..
Instead of me trying to describe it I filmed it

​​​
https://youtu.be/OAQo78ogh8g

Now I have had my car flooded about a year ago(battery was going bad), but if I can recall it sounded totally different. I could be wrong.
115 k miles, I replaced all coils and plugs when I bought car 3 yrs ago(98k).
Can someone point in the right direction or rule something out. Not to savvy with cars, but we will see.
Thanks in advance.

Trouble starting after huge rain over weekend(vented hood)

{WTB} reverse switch/airbag Control module

Looking for MT reverse switch and an airbag control module. need fairly soon.

Thank you

{WTB} reverse switch/airbag Control module

{ FS } 2004 Mazda RX8 GT

Car is in good condition. The catalytic converter has been removed. Koni Yellows, H-tech springs, Enkei RPF1s. Everything else is stock. Selling as is for 4k obo.

Attached Thumbnails

   

{ FS } 2004 Mazda RX8 GT

Shock. US Ford Mustang only gets 2 stars in AU crash test

Ford Mustang gets two-star ANCAP crash rating

This is what Chinese made cars get here.

Shock. US Ford Mustang only gets 2 stars in AU crash test

{ FS } AEM / MS Intake

I have an AEM Cold Air Intake for sale.

The unit is in pristine condition, no dents / scratches.

Used for 7k kms.

$500 obo .. Comes with Decals and License Plate Frame :-)

{ FS } AEM / MS Intake

{ FS } 2007 6SPD Transmission

I have a transmission for sale.
It's 6 SPD Manual
Came off an 2007 RX8 GT
Car has 60k on it

Transmission shifts smooth, no grinding, no slips no issues what so ever.

$500 or best offer.

{ FS } 2007 6SPD Transmission

Few questions. What is this powder stuff and what is this part?

3 questions here about my 2009 R3. First, I got this white powder mold looking stuff just inside my door, I took a picture of it. The stuff comes off if I scrape with my nail but is there a more effective way of removing it and has anyone else seen anything like it? Second question, what is the panel called that sits in front of the rear wheels. One side is looking pretty rough, as if the paint is cracking. Is it called a stone guard? I think its #1 on this page here. http://ift.tt/2ku9ke9

Last question. Can the hoods of an 04-08 rx8 be easily swapped over to an 09? Are they the same size? Same bolt configuration, etc.?

Few questions. What is this powder stuff and what is this part?

{ FS } 2008 RX-8 aftermarket. Borla exhaust/K&N intake and more

Hello all have a used Borla cat back exhaust good shape first 475$ Takes it that's a steal.
K&N typhoon intake great shape. 160$
Carbon fiber tender gills 50$
JDM cusco front strut bar 100$
LED 3rd brake light new never used 60$
thanks for looking this stuff is all in good shape may fit other years but that's up to you to find out before you buy.

{ FS } 2008 RX-8 aftermarket. Borla exhaust/K&N intake and more

{ FS } Lebren LED 3rd Brake Light

I am selling my Lebren LED 3rd Brake Light. It's still brand new and never been used. Had plans to install it, but not anymore. I am just looking to get my money back.


$84.99 USD

{ FS } Lebren LED 3rd Brake Light

Clicking on image thumbnails doesn't work

Tested on Mac Chrome and Safari and PC Chrome and IE. Clicking on image thumbnail just opens a black screen with nav icons but the image never loads. Downloading the image does work so it is not a 404 error.

Clicking on image thumbnails doesn't work

Slave cylinder not releasing causing fork rattle

Hi all,

I have a clutch fork rattle when the clutch is not pushed in. I went under the car with the clutch pedal up, and the rattle stops when i slightly push the slave rod away from the fork. Which means the slave rod is slightly pressing on the fork causing it to rattle when the clutch pedal is up. It seems to me that when I let the pedal go, the slave cylinder is not releasing fully or is it something else like the master? I just bled the slave earlier. It shifts better but the rattle is still there. Clutch is in good condition. Any ideas?

Fluid was dark gray

https://youtu.be/cwjCZ8j_1Tc

Slave cylinder not releasing causing fork rattle

Rx8 Not starting

I'm starting this thread not only for myself but for anyone that may have the same horrible luck as me. This is the 2nd year in a row my rx8 has stopped starting after parking it for the winter. Last year it turned out to be the starter motor, so I replaced it. This year I'm at a loss and need some guidance. I replaced the spark plugs early spring 2016, the ignition coils around July 2016 and last night the spark plug wires. Basically she cranks but won't start up. I smell gas after the attempts to start but no luck. So I took out the start park plugs, cleaned and dried them then cranked for 20 seconds with the gas pedal to the floor and saw/smelt the fumes. After re-installing the spark plugs I tried to start it but it wouldn't go (note: I tried that method with the old spark plug wires) any and all help is much appreciated I can't seem to figure this one out.

Rx8 Not starting

SoCal - Cars & Coffee Meet in the Antelope Valley this Fri, January 27

Date: 1/27/2017

Location: Liquid Bean Coffee House - 1711 W Avenue K, Lancaster, CA 93534
Time: 7:00pm until whenever - Show Up Anytime!

We do ask that you abide these GUIDELINES

Antelope Valley Auto Enthusiasts Meet Page - Check Here For Updates
Antelope Valley Auto Enthusiasts Instagram - Meet And Event Pictures

Photo courtesy of Aerial Exposure Photography

SoCal - Cars & Coffee Meet in the Antelope Valley this Fri, January 27

non DSC ABS pump line question

hi all, I v-mounted my intercooler and had to relocate the abs pump. Mine is 2004 NON-DSC abs pump without the brake pressure sensor. I was dumb and forgot to label the ports before disconnecting everything.

Can someone confirm that the attached picture correctly depicts the brake line routing?
F=front master cylinder out
R=rear master cylinder out
RL = rear driver side wheel
RR = rear passenger side wheel
FR = front passenger side
FL = front driver side wheel

thanks in advance!

Attached Thumbnails

 

non DSC ABS pump line question

Wishing I'd gotten the automatic

Blasphemy, I know.

I got my RX-8 in late October 2009, as an alternate-driver when I wanted to drive something sportier than my VW Passat. The Passat had been a money pit, and I wanted a newer more reliable car (the RX-8 might seem like an odd choice for reliability, but it's actually been a champ), and since I had the flexibility of already owning a practical car, I went all-in on the RX-8 and got the manual transmission.

Shortly thereafter the Passat overheated due to frozen coolant in one of the coolant lines (who knew putting an un-insulated metal pipe RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE GRILLE would be a bad idea?), and the following summer it started refusing to start in hot weather -- like, turning the key did nothing, no clicks, no dimming dashboard lights, nothing. At that point I finally said "to hell with it", cut my substantial losses and trashed the Passat. The RX-8 has been my DD ever since.

I've taken it on a few 10-hour trips, but most of the 54,000 miles on it have been city miles, which means that I don't get to wring it out very often. Instead I get to feather the heavy clutch in traffic and do lots of rapid gear-changes pulling away from stoplights, and when I do get to sustain speed on the freeway I end up using the cruise-control to avoid getting tickets. So my left foot is tired and the drone from the exhaust on the freeway stays at the exact same pitch for long periods of time, which is somehow hypnotic and extremely annoying at the same time.

If I'd gotten the automatic I never would've learned to drive stick, but I also wouldn't have to put up with the constant frustration of driving this car in heavy traffic. Sure, the engine in the automatic is rated 20hp lower, but this engine has such a flat torque-curve that the only reason for the lower HP rating is because of the lower redline -- and since I almost never get close to redline anyway, I wouldn't miss the extra 20hp.

I wish I were better at predicting the future. In lieu of that, I wish I could trade for the automatic version without losing my shirt or taking a serious risk of buying an engine near the end of its lifespan. And I can't afford to buy a new car right now, so I'm stuck with what I've got. I never thought I'd hate this car, but circumstances conspired against me.

</rant>

Wishing I'd gotten the automatic

Another downpipe / midpipe question (s) :D

The last two performance mods I want to do to my 8 are a downpipe and cold air intake. Nothing crazy, and yes, I know, I've done extensive research, and I fully understand the gains are basic, especially without a tune. First off, I don't plan on getting a tune because in 2017, apparently finding a MM preloaded Accessport is like finding an ancient relic. Or, I can take it to a shop, but I'd rather the control at my fingertips even with a more basic Cobb AP tune.

That being said, I would simply like to get an AEM Cai and downpipe - which I'm debating right now - to add to my catback and upgraded ignition system. That's all I want to do performance-wise. Now I know I will order the AEM, but I'm looking for suggestions on which midpipe I should add to my turboxs catback. Currently I have the OEM cat with only 11k miles on it. It seems fine, but to my understanding it is very restrictive due to emissions regulations and I would like to free up that extra HP.

I would prefer a high-flow catted DP because I don't want a CEL or the stench. I've come to understand that most catted dps won't display a CEL, especially on the earlier models. This leaves with only two options really (dps w/ cats), being turboxs and BHR. Now the difference is $220 which is quite a deal, vs $600. I'm sure quality vs quality, the BHR is better, but for 1/3 of the price I was almost set to order the Turboxs one tonight. Thankfully I did some more research, and just when everything seemed all good to go, I realized that the turboxs DP has terrible clearance issues. Go figure, I'm on coilovers. The last thing I want is this thing exploding when I hit a bump in the road.

This leaves me with one other realistic option (that I'm aware of) being the BHR catted dp. What do you guys think? Am I missing any other catted downpipes here? It seems like everything is / are catless racepipes out there.

Another downpipe / midpipe question (s) :D

exhaust port question

Ok, I have made a observation and now I have questions about my observation.

After cracking open a couple or rx8 engines myself, and seeing other rx8 engines opened up by others, I have noticed something. On all of the engines I have examined/looked over, the narrow end of the exhaust ports are always packed in carbon.

So, what is the point of the narrow end of the exhaust port? The shallow tapper can't possibly flow much if any exhaust. It does not appear to effect port opening or closing. It is a great carbon trap, and I'm sure having the side seal sliding over that chunk of carbon extends seal life.

Is there a way to change the shape of the narrow end of the port to prevent carbon buildup.

exhaust port question

E-Shaft Nominal Measurements...

I'm looking for a nominal spec for the diameter of the e shaft rotor journals. I remember seeing that the nominal spec was 2.9130" for older RX-7's and wasn't sure if that was still true. I'm in the process of rebuilding\ordering parts and mine measure at 2.9125".

Now using the method described in the rebuild manual I've an oil clearance of .0058 which is out of spec and I need to replace the bearings but I'm not sure If I need the over-sized N3A311B11 (3.005mm) or the N3A211B11 (3.000mm) or the standard N3A1 (2.995, I believe). I cannot find the color mark on either of the rotor bearings.

I've pressed the bearing out and have measured the internal circumference of where the bearing will be pressed in figuring that I can calculate which bearing I'd need. That measurement was 3.1469 so here is where I get stumped....the distance between the journal and the rotor bearing seat is .1172~.1178." which is smaller than the tightest bearing.

Any advice or ideas?

E-Shaft Nominal Measurements...

Vapor canister?

Where is it located? Thanks

Vapor canister?

Buying a car in Canada with US history?

Hi,
Looking at a car that was imported from the US back in 2007 (so I'm sure any required modifications were done long ago).. is there anything else I should be aware of when buying a car with US history (I looked through the "Importing.." sticky but that looked more like it was about the importing process itself, rather than buying something that was imported long ago)?
Thanks.

Buying a car in Canada with US history?

p0302 misfire

Hello guys.

Going home from work today I got a flashing cel, code p0302. This is the second time I had a misfire, last time was about a year ago, I'm not sure though if it's the same code. Last time I took it to the dealer right when it happened as I was nearby. They told me one of my coils had gone bad and that they needed the originals as I have the BHR ignition installed. I didn't have them available at the time, but they came to the conclusion that it was just a bad connection in one of the ignition cables since everything was fine when they put everything together after doing some testing and everything's been working fine ever since until today. One or two times since then I have gotten a p0420 code when cruising at highway speeds for longer periods of time (>30 mins). I visually inspected my cat which was fine and i've passed all the inspections where they measure exhaust levels since then, and the code went away after just a couple of days by itself so I came to the conclusion that it was just occasional and nothing to worry about. I have the BHR catted midpipe as well i might add.

So here I am today with a new misfire. A few minutes before the cel showed up the car was "jerking" during some accelerations and sometimes I had to give some extra gas going uphill, but it returned to normal when the road leveled out. So where do I start? Coils? Plugs? Wires? Cat? I'm eventually going to take it to the dealer but I want to have some idea about the cause beforehand since I don't really trust those guys. Please tell me I haven't fucked something up myself. :crying: The car only has about 47.000km on it (about 29 000 miles?).


Thank you, you guys are the best!

p0302 misfire

Zero compression? Really?

OK, Newbie with asbestos underwear installed!

2nd RX8 ever in the family, this one bought for less than peanuts as a project. I could break it and get more than I paid, but it is in good nick and they'll be sought after in a decade.
04 Series 1, 60k miles, minimal history, series of MOTs confirm mileage. Likely original engine. Engine starts promptly and I was able to drive it on and off the trailer and into the garage. Keeps wanting to stall and pathetic power, but will give a low lumpy idle for a wee while, with intermittent enormous backfires - it blew 3 beer bottles off the lower shelf in the garage 1m behind it. Impressive! Code says rotor 2 misfire. Coils/plugs/leads look new (the old coils are in the boot). Front rotor plugs a bit sooty, rear ones both pristine shiny metal as if straight out the box.
So I went for the DIY compression check (without the schraeder valve; with a video camera) just to see what ball park we were in; I am viewing it as a project and will rebuild the engine if it is required. Engine had to be cold as I'm feart to let it warm up in case it blows the new windows out of the garage. Front rotor is about 80-80-80 psi; rear is 0-0-0, not a flicker on the needle, not a whiff past a finger on the spark-plug hole. Is my assumption that complete and universal failure of all rear rotor seals the only explanation correct? I'm new to rotaries, but having done some research, there's no other way to get zero compression is there? Not like a bent valve etc.
thank you for reading!

Zero compression? Really?

What's up with these wheels!?

So here's my buddy's series 2. It's got S1 wheels fitted, and they look awful. The wheels sit more inwards to the car! Like, they don't sit as flush as other RX8s. I looked up the offsets on these wheels and all S1, S2 and R3 wheels seem to be +50. So why does this car look so off?

What's up with these wheels!?